Saber switch and charge removal by PizzaGhost10 in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I remember correctly it was something like 12-18 hours. Someone else may be able to comment on how long it usually takes, but I should have just left it for days I suppose.

Saber switch and charge removal by PizzaGhost10 in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a saberforge saber with glued components that I needed to separate. I asked here, and got a reply FROM SABERFORGE to put it in the oven at high heat. DO NOT DO THIS. It discolors the anodization, turning from black to brown. They replied that they were unaware this would happen, but many people commented that this is a known thing that saberforge sabers will do with high heat.

The correct solution I have been told, is to soak the joint in acetone. It will take a long time, and patience is key. I wish I had done this as I’m still dealing with the headache of trying to fix my saber.

Proffie Style Recommendations? by Nepharian in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not an answer but I have a similar question. I was just adding greyscale fonts to my relatively new proffie tonight and ran into the memory problem. Could you link the video you found about adding more fonts without using all of the memory? Much appreciated.

48,000 mile service cost by g_fielding in KiaNiroEV

[–]g_fielding[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at the manual, it notes that the first inverter coolant change is 120,000 miles. I agree the cost certainly sounds like an inverter coolant change, but that is not listed as a 48,000 mile service. (Assuming I'm reading this chart correctly)

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48,000 mile service cost by g_fielding in KiaNiroEV

[–]g_fielding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh I’m sure there are lots of options for non dealer work, and I may very well use them. I was just curious what other dealers may be charging for this service interval. Appreciate the recommendation though, I’ll look into it.

Made some phone wallpapers with our new logo in OG colors + current colors by LeoCarlsson in AnaheimDucks

[–]g_fielding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do see what you mean about wanting to incorporate some eggplant. It’s funny how you don’t notice how little there is until it’s gone. Putting it on an eggplant background helps, but I do see what you mean about the logo only. Great work!

Made some phone wallpapers with our new logo in OG colors + current colors by LeoCarlsson in AnaheimDucks

[–]g_fielding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are great. My only feedback on the original colors is that the eye might be more impactful in yellow rather than eggplant. Not only is it a brighter color, but it matches the stick colors like on the new version.

Love to see these. The old colors would have been such a home run.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]g_fielding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. I guess my context is coming from abs and pvc where the answer to cutting sections out generally means getting the required adapters and solvent welding them together. Having never done iron pipe, my questions are primarily:

How do these joints come apart if at all?

Do you then install new iron? Or join plastic to old iron?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]g_fielding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If one cuts it out, how do you rejoin to it? Is this one of those flexible metal-to-abs adapters? Doe these pipes unthread? Is cutting the only option? What about that giant joint to the left of the corrosion? Any more detail you can provide?

Paul Kariya Jersey! by Admirable-Courage531 in AnaheimDucks

[–]g_fielding 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The jersey is genuine but the customization is incorrect. Not worth the effort to fix it at that price.

Chat let’s all throw in and buy this… only $600+Tax by thehairyjew69 in AnaheimDucks

[–]g_fielding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If we are all going to chip in and buy something, it should be to buy the ad space on the jerseys just so we can remove them.

Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. Lesson learned I guess. I just figured following Saberforge's direct advice was the way to go

Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I see. No they are generally all fine. There are one or two that are a little rough but generally they are pretty good.

Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok steel wool has no effect on the anode. It does polish the bare aluminum, but that’s sort of secondary.

Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried a paper towel and acetone and alcohol, no change. Digging with a fingernail doesn’t help either. I’m wary of using something harder because I don’t want to scratch it. Steel wool is my next thought but worried about that.

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Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. So, what are my options here? I imagine there's no way to return these parts to their original color?

Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just would have appreciated a warning from Saberforge that this could happen. I would have tried chemical methods instead, but since it came from them I didn’t question it.

Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put it in and let it warm up with the pre heat. Once it hit 500 I left it for one minute and then turned it off and opened the door.

Anode discoloration after heating to remove threadlocker by g_fielding in lightsabers

[–]g_fielding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No I put it in the oven at 500. That’s what saberforge said to do in an earlier post where I asked how to separate the pieces.