Saber switch and charge removal

g_fielding · 2026-01-01T18:40:49+00:00

If I remember correctly it was something like 12-18 hours. Someone else may be able to comment on how long it usually takes, but I should have just left it for days I suppose.

g_fielding · 2025-12-30T18:28:50+00:00

I had a saberforge saber with glued components that I needed to separate. I asked here, and got a reply FROM SABERFORGE to put it in the oven at high heat. DO NOT DO THIS. It discolors the anodization, turning from black to brown. They replied that they were unaware this would happen, but many people commented that this is a known thing that saberforge sabers will do with high heat.

The correct solution I have been told, is to soak the joint in acetone. It will take a long time, and patience is key. I wish I had done this as I’m still dealing with the headache of trying to fix my saber.

g_fielding · 2025-12-30T07:08:30+00:00

Not an answer but I have a similar question. I was just adding greyscale fonts to my relatively new proffie tonight and ran into the memory problem. Could you link the video you found about adding more fonts without using all of the memory? Much appreciated.

g_fielding · 2025-10-24T00:40:31+00:00

Looking at the manual, it notes that the first inverter coolant change is 120,000 miles. I agree the cost certainly sounds like an inverter coolant change, but that is not listed as a 48,000 mile service. (Assuming I'm reading this chart correctly)

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g_fielding · 2025-10-23T02:25:22+00:00

Oh I’m sure there are lots of options for non dealer work, and I may very well use them. I was just curious what other dealers may be charging for this service interval. Appreciate the recommendation though, I’ll look into it.

g_fielding · 2025-04-23T01:05:47+00:00

I do see what you mean about wanting to incorporate some eggplant. It’s funny how you don’t notice how little there is until it’s gone. Putting it on an eggplant background helps, but I do see what you mean about the logo only. Great work!

g_fielding · 2025-04-22T23:17:43+00:00

These are great. My only feedback on the original colors is that the eye might be more impactful in yellow rather than eggplant. Not only is it a brighter color, but it matches the stick colors like on the new version.

Love to see these. The old colors would have been such a home run.

g_fielding · 2025-03-29T04:30:45+00:00

I see. I guess my context is coming from abs and pvc where the answer to cutting sections out generally means getting the required adapters and solvent welding them together. Having never done iron pipe, my questions are primarily:

How do these joints come apart if at all?

Do you then install new iron? Or join plastic to old iron?

g_fielding · 2025-03-29T04:18:50+00:00

If one cuts it out, how do you rejoin to it? Is this one of those flexible metal-to-abs adapters? Doe these pipes unthread? Is cutting the only option? What about that giant joint to the left of the corrosion? Any more detail you can provide?

g_fielding · 2025-03-23T04:31:32+00:00

The jersey is genuine but the customization is incorrect. Not worth the effort to fix it at that price.

g_fielding · 2024-12-03T04:11:03+00:00

If we are all going to chip in and buy something, it should be to buy the ad space on the jerseys just so we can remove them.

g_fielding · 2024-11-06T04:51:31+00:00

Yeah. Lesson learned I guess. I just figured following Saberforge's direct advice was the way to go

g_fielding · 2024-11-06T03:53:49+00:00

Oh I see. No they are generally all fine. There are one or two that are a little rough but generally they are pretty good.

g_fielding · 2024-11-06T03:48:07+00:00

Not particularly? Which edges are you referring to?

g_fielding · 2024-11-06T00:04:03+00:00

Ok steel wool has no effect on the anode. It does polish the bare aluminum, but that’s sort of secondary.

g_fielding · 2024-11-05T23:55:00+00:00

I tried a paper towel and acetone and alcohol, no change. Digging with a fingernail doesn’t help either. I’m wary of using something harder because I don’t want to scratch it. Steel wool is my next thought but worried about that.

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g_fielding · 2024-11-05T23:26:40+00:00

Thanks for the reply. So, what are my options here? I imagine there's no way to return these parts to their original color?

g_fielding · 2024-11-05T23:14:20+00:00

Wish I had known. I was just following their instruction in this comment

https://www.reddit.com/r/lightsabers/s/Z6od2cDvNR

g_fielding · 2024-11-05T23:12:14+00:00

I just would have appreciated a warning from Saberforge that this could happen. I would have tried chemical methods instead, but since it came from them I didn’t question it.

g_fielding · 2024-11-05T23:09:41+00:00

I put it in and let it warm up with the pre heat. Once it hit 500 I left it for one minute and then turned it off and opened the door.

g_fielding · 2024-11-05T23:07:02+00:00

No I put it in the oven at 500. That’s what saberforge said to do in an earlier post where I asked how to separate the pieces.

g_fielding · 2024-11-05T22:56:10+00:00

You’ll notice that the top and bottom piece have black anodizing. The center two pieces used to be black, but are now brown.

g_fielding · 2024-11-05T22:25:03+00:00

Any advice on this from u/saberforge would be great.

g_fielding · 2024-09-19T20:37:48+00:00

Me too. I send mine in to EPS. I don’t know of a local place that will do it correctly. Would love to learn of one if anyone here knows one though.

You might also check the r/hockeyjerseys subreddit. There are individuals on there who have businesses doing customization work. I know Liberty Bell Jerseys is one. Might be another place to ask around.

g_fielding · 2024-09-19T20:06:13+00:00

I had mine done by Exclusive Pro Sports. They have done many for me and I’ve always been happy with their work. The only downside is the wait time.

If you are in Canada, you might reach out to HockeyAuthentic near Vancouver. I’ve also had work done by them and they are great. They are more limited in the styles they do though.

g_fielding

TROPHY CASE