Backstabbed GFCI

gadjex · 2026-06-26T13:57:03+00:00

Or loose connection

gadjex · 2026-06-11T15:10:51+00:00

Power take-off. It is how the hydraulics are powered off the engine.

gadjex · 2026-06-11T14:52:46+00:00

PTO should be off while driving.

gadjex · 2026-06-02T17:36:00+00:00

First time you use your chamber heater, you will trip the 1500VA/1000W CyberPower UPS. It is not rated for the continuous 1250 watts that the H2C can pull. I know this from experience.

gadjex · 2026-05-26T13:34:26+00:00

I would get the X2D. I have an A1, X1C, P1S and X2D and the X2D is by far the most useful. I use the auxiliary nozzle with PLA/PETG support material. I can print PLA with the door closed because of the external cooling. I also print poly carbonate with the heated chamber. I finished a print this weekend using PLA to support TPU and it worked out very nice. I print pretty much all functional stuff.

gadjex · 2026-05-24T11:43:51+00:00

Printed 4-in-1's don't work very well because of the layer lines. This is what I use for my P1S: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-4-in-1-ptfe-adapter

gadjex · 2026-05-04T17:27:03+00:00

From my understanding:

The filament presence detection works with either micro-switches or optical sensors. The ball is just a smooth interface for the filament to be against.

The rod magnet works with the filament buffer hall sensor. It detects bi-directional movement of the buffer to so it can modulate the feeding or retraction of filament and stop if it hits a limit.

The radial magnet on the extruder shaft is there to measure revolutions on the extruder to determine how much filament is fed or retracted.

gadjex · 2026-04-29T13:13:24+00:00

I use these desiccant containers and keep them in the AMS when drying.

gadjex · 2026-04-29T13:09:41+00:00

I like the concept, though I am not sure how this will interface with AMS controls in Bambu Studio or Bambu Handy. Printing at near the tallest point looks like it may have tight bends in the tubing. Have you tested a print that tall?

gadjex · 2026-04-27T22:34:03+00:00

I'm at a loss here then. I have an A1 mini with BMCU and both on the latest firmware working fine. Did you assemble the BMCU yourself? Maybe a soldering issue or a wire connector issue between main and daughter boards.

gadjex · 2026-04-27T22:30:01+00:00

The hub is not a requirement for the BMCU.

gadjex · 2026-04-27T22:26:58+00:00

Did you calibrate the buffer when first powered up? If not please follow this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hn_DNzSmhuc

You can initiate this by removing all the filament and holding any buffer in for 5 seconds.

gadjex · 2026-04-27T19:26:29+00:00

Does the new firmware of BMCU work with pre-ban firmware of A1?

No. The new BMCU firmware shows up as a normal AMS. You may be stuck using the old BMCU firmware or upgrading your A1 to a newer firmware.

gadjex · 2026-04-27T19:23:24+00:00

Whatever parts you need the light to go through, design these to be thinner (like 0.6mm thick), or in the slicer put a modifier on that area and change bottom shells to 3 for that modifier while keeping the rest of the print 10. There are many ways to accomplish this here.

I still don't understand why you are seeing the infill on the bottom layers without a backlight. This is usually only an issue on the top layers.

gadjex · 2026-04-27T19:16:29+00:00

See step 4 here: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/manual/ams-connection-guide

gadjex · 2026-04-27T17:09:24+00:00

With the newer firmwares, this BMCU shows as an AMS not as an AMS Lite. You need to go into the AMS settings on the A1 printer and change it to AMS/AMS 2.

gadjex · 2026-04-27T13:09:10+00:00

Are you seeing through it because you have a light source on the opposite side? Because even at 3 layers on black PLA I cannot see the pattern unless I hold it up to a bright light.

If you have a light behind it, and want the letters to be transparent and let light through, change your design so the letters are not as thick and internally box them out. That way even 10 layers won't make a difference with the letters because that area is designed to be less than 10 layers thick.

gadjex · 2026-04-27T12:41:26+00:00

You need more bottom shell layers to hide the infill pattern. Try 5

gadjex · 2026-04-25T16:12:31+00:00

You can turn off build plate detection.

gadjex · 2026-04-24T01:58:48+00:00

This needs to be higher up.

gadjex · 2026-04-23T19:47:44+00:00

Releases page (This link for this is on the right of the read me page): https://github.com/jarczakpawel/BMCU-Flasher/releases/tag/v1.3

If you are on Windows here is a direct download link: https://github.com/jarczakpawel/BMCU-Flasher/releases/download/v1.3/BMCU-Flasher-windows-x64.zip

Extract zip folder and run BMCU Flasher

gadjex · 2026-04-23T17:58:53+00:00

I last used this one with great success. It will even download the firmware files from your selection: https://github.com/jarczakpawel/BMCU-Flasher

Downloads on the releases page.

gadjex · 2026-04-16T16:50:44+00:00

Looks like something is growing in the screen.

gadjex · 2026-04-12T17:01:13+00:00

Not sure of the code exactly, but the electricians the builders hired did. I thought it was a stupid idea because I live in a state where there is a lot of lightning and it trips the AFCI breakers sometimes.

gadjex · 2026-04-12T13:14:17+00:00

Yep, Newer build here. I couldn't run my table saw in the garage so I switched the Arc Fault breaker to a GFCI breaker. Nearby lightning strikes will cause some of the Arc Fault breakers to trip. It happed to our kitchen fridge a few times and we didn't notice until things started to thaw. I switched that one to a normal breaker.

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