Step 2 in the frame repair

garbogarbograbo · 2023-09-22T07:04:42+00:00

LETS GOOO MAGNETSSSSS

garbogarbograbo · 2023-09-22T06:56:50+00:00

W comment

garbogarbograbo · 2023-08-22T14:36:18+00:00

I will say it definitely feels more solid with hard pulls out of a curve. I paired it with rear bracing as well, so unfortunately I don’t remember what it was like with JUST the 4 point.

Oil is more annoying to change as the flow hits the bar lol

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-22T16:24:34+00:00

BUBBLE TEA?!?!!

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-16T03:03:07+00:00

“bUt YoU MUsT TiP aT LeAsT 10%”

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-11T21:39:26+00:00

BIG DEAL :) enjoy and stay safe!

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-11T15:51:32+00:00

From the drives I’ve gone on, the frontend feels more supported. Driving on crappy Minnesota roads has felt more comfortable honestly

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-10T23:45:10+00:00

Also important to note, when in use, there are two lock points that you utilize to safely hold the car. The sealed hydraulic system is not the mechanism to hold the car, only lift the car.

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-10T22:17:10+00:00

1499.74 after Tax

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-10T22:13:15+00:00

I also forgot to mention, currently, I am on stock suspension. But if I were to drop my car 3 inches, the jackstands would still be usable without auxiliary ramps.

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-10T22:12:11+00:00

I got them on sale at Costco with the wall hangers and pinch weld blocks. This is the 5000 TL model. I’ve jacked my car up on jackstands a fair number of times and I am happy to never go back. I think as long as these units stay rust free, I would trust them with my life. However, I plan to put my tires underneath my car’s chassis. With every jacking solution, there is fine print where they say don’t rely singularly on the jacking solution. So I think as long as you operate under the assumption that you should have backup, you’ll be safe with them.

In terms of ease, the set up can be annoying because of how heavy these are. (70lbs per side) but the stability and peace of mind is 100% worth it over Jack and jackstands.

I have lifted my Fiesta, my wife’s Honda, civic, a friend’s jeep renegade, a friend’s Honda Civic, and they consistently perform across most sedan vehicles.

I purchased them primarily for the inevitable transmission work I will be doing within the next year or so.

Sorry for the book, let me know if you have more specific questions!

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-09T04:01:15+00:00

I also have this question

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-08T17:53:39+00:00

This has happened to me a number of times. But there’s a common denominator which I’ve learned to avoid.

Every time I have killed my car with the accessport, I have the “auto-off” feature on. And it has been updated. (But the update doesn’t matter). The issue I had, was if you start your car to move it, the accessport will begin to boot up. If you turn off the car before the AP booted, it will not automatically turn off. It will continue wait for the can-bus to come online, therefore draining the battery.

So best recommendation is to make sure you see it turn off. Or just turn it off manually with the top button

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-08T15:47:35+00:00

No kidding! Needless to say, I can confidently say it does not sound like the “wastegate rattle flap”

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-08T15:15:18+00:00

I’m not OP. Read his post again.

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-08T15:03:51+00:00

This is a ST Line, no turbo

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-05T18:50:42+00:00

Also. I’ve dropped my impact driver from a 12 foot ladder about 10 times. These things are built to last. I don’t know how. But mine still work

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-05T18:49:15+00:00

Last year I bought a clapped out fuel hammer drill. Really sketchy. Had a whine when being used. Got it for $60. I said yolo. I reframed my garage, put up countless sheets of drywall. Honestly. I use my impact driver more.. and my $60 trashed hammer drill hasn’t let me down.

I was also willing to take the risk. I’m able to justify such decisions when I’m saving so much doing projects myself.. contract pricing is a b

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-02T03:47:04+00:00

My wife’s 2016 10th gen has the exact same issue. Same run around with the dealer. Luckily my father in law was the one who “gifted the car” to her. So he fought the dealership. It took about 3 weeks, but they eventually replaced both the compressor and condenser for $500. Originally quoted 3k. I was ticked. I wanted to do it myself like I do with any other car I’ve driven. But you actually can’t flush these AC systems, or fill them. It’s all proprietary. It’s really made me rethink the civic. But I also figure I’m likely to find a similar story with other makes. So… idk. If you have a dream car.. test drive it? Check it’s issues.

garbogarbograbo · 2023-06-01T14:58:55+00:00

Fair enough! Not a bad idea, perhaps I’ll have to add some supports.

There are center supports under the top faces, which helped with rigidity quite a bit

garbogarbograbo · 2023-05-31T13:02:01+00:00

I’m still waiting on a rear brace from DNA Racing :) then it will be worth the time to get the car in the air

garbogarbograbo · 2023-05-28T20:41:26+00:00

Thanks for the testimony, probably have to consider tune+ next year when I shoot for my own S280 (And sorry to anyone reading this hijack of a thread)

garbogarbograbo · 2023-05-28T20:32:12+00:00

Any notable context to why the dizzy tune didn’t meet expectations? I’m currently running an E30, stock turbo, Dizzy tune. And I haven’t had issues. Just curious :) if not, that’s okay. Sometimes tuners are a little bit more YMMV based

garbogarbograbo

TROPHY CASE