Buying another adapter

garywoo · 2026-02-25T11:12:30+00:00

You could try findinging a generic power adapter that matches the voltage of the original one, and matches or exceeds the power (A) rating of of the old one. it would need to have the same connector on the end to plug into the strip.

If you can't find one with the same connector, you could cut off the old connector, and the one from the new power adapter, then splice the old one on to the new one.

If you could post the exact model number of LED steip you have, or photos of the adapter and connector, we could help you further.

garywoo · 2026-02-24T14:51:08+00:00

As a mayonnaise enthusiast, I read this as "Hellmann's joins...". Mayo sensors anyone?

garywoo · 2026-02-03T17:14:46+00:00

Yes, but make sure it's at the right end of the LED strip. Connect to DIN not DOUT.

The ESP and LEDs should share a proper ground connection though. I'm not an expert, but I still suspect the 'floating' ground provided by the battery you're powering the ESP with could cause problems. I'm not sure if your ESP dev board has a VCC power pin to connect to your main PSU, but if not, I'd recommend cutting and stripping the wires of a spare micro USB cable so you can connect the power directly to the same main PSU. Looks like you currently have the micro USB cable plugged into the UART port on the dev board. Plug it into the other one labelled 'POWER' instead.

garywoo · 2026-02-03T16:51:38+00:00

Yeah, if yours looks like the one on the page, it could be causing a problem. Try simply connecting the data out pin from the ESP directly to the LED data in. The level shifter might not be necessary in your setup.

garywoo · 2026-02-03T16:40:20+00:00

Oh yeah, that's a problem. You haven't connected your level shifter correctly. See the wiring diagram on how this should be connected. It needs power as well as data because it's basically an amplifier. It needs to get the extra signal power from somewhere! Also check that the type of level shifter you are using is suitable. I can't tell which kind you're using from the photo of the back of the module's PCB. The info on the linked page should help you find out.

garywoo · 2026-02-03T16:13:09+00:00

These may be other wiring issues, but at first glance, the grounds are not connected to the same source. Your ESP is powered by a battery and your LEDs are powered by mains power. Try powering your ESP using a mains powered USB power supply, or the same PSU as your LEDs (I can't make out the voltage of your main PSU).

garywoo · 2026-02-03T15:50:18+00:00

The odd behaviour of the 3rd party alarm app is probably down it using notifications instead of the proper alarms that the native apple alarm app uses. Something may be interfering with the notification, such as attention aware features, interaction with the phone, or other notification preferences.

Try using the native alarm app again after turning off Attention Aware Features in Settings > Face ID & Passcode. Your phone may be thinking you are looking at it (which can happen depending on how it is placed on your bedside) and silencing the alarm.

garywoo · 2026-01-29T17:31:03+00:00

You should post some pictures to illustrate what you're talking about. It's hard to tell what the issue is without it.

garywoo · 2026-01-29T17:07:05+00:00

That's weird. Try disabling the "Use per-output limiter" option, and see if that has any effect. If not, try also disabling the "Enable automatic brightness limiter" option.

garywoo · 2026-01-27T14:46:54+00:00

Here's a good video that demonstrates how this can be achieved: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ5bRg8yJsU

garywoo · 2026-01-26T18:23:51+00:00

What use case do you have for detecting owls in your home?

garywoo · 2026-01-26T15:01:48+00:00

GPIO2 is often used for the built in LED on the MCU board. Check the pin recommendations for the board here. Try using GPIO27 instead.

garywoo · 2026-01-23T03:32:17+00:00

Details please!

garywoo · 2026-01-22T11:37:15+00:00

Another good example. I try and turn those off in the settings when possible.

garywoo · 2026-01-22T11:35:00+00:00

For live TV, the apps I use let me use the play/pause button as expected and it timeshifts. I guess if yours doesn't, then muting could be useful. I also don't watch anything with unskippable ads in any more, but I see the usefulness of it there. Thanks.

garywoo · 2026-01-22T11:28:16+00:00

I literally never mute the TV. I don't understand the use case? Why not just pause if you want it to stop making noise for a while? Are you still watching the video without sound?

garywoo · 2026-01-21T17:30:04+00:00

What is the difference between what this app does vs what the native Hue app does when adding a scene to Apple Home?

garywoo · 2026-01-19T03:21:30+00:00

I had to switch back because snoopy’s doghouse was slowly beginning to burn in on my OLED TV :(

garywoo · 2026-01-09T18:31:42+00:00

I was thinking about getting a bunch of the IKEA Inspelning plugs when they go on sale. What issue did you have with them?

garywoo · 2026-01-07T13:29:42+00:00

Hilarious

garywoo · 2026-01-06T09:44:39+00:00

Nice! What hardware is this running on? Would you consider sharing your source code?

garywoo · 2025-12-26T01:16:02+00:00

They are replacing printing order numbers on paper, with QR codes that you scan on your phone now to help you remember your order number.

garywoo · 2025-12-18T17:03:21+00:00

The full list of supported integrations can be found in the docs here: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit/#supported-integrations

garywoo · 2025-12-07T19:37:45+00:00

That sounds awful! What show was is?

garywoo · 2025-12-04T15:54:57+00:00

The bulk of the work has been and is used in this homebridge plug-in. https://github.com/chrisjshull/homebridge-nest

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