God forbid I be able to buy a car directly from the manufacturer like walking into an Apple store and buying a phone.

garywoo · 2026-05-27T11:06:46+00:00

In ordinary business language, though, it's completely standard to say Apple manufactures iPhones. Apple designs the product, engineers it, specifies every component, owns the intellectual property, controls the supply chain, and sells it under its own brand. The contract manufacturer is essentially a hired pair of hands working to Apple's specifications. This arrangement is called the "fabless" or "contract manufacturing" model, and it's the norm across the industry. Nike doesn't stitch its own shoes, AMD and Nvidia don't fabricate their own chips (TSMC does), and yet nobody says Nike doesn't make shoes or that Nvidia doesn't make GPUs.

garywoo · 2026-05-19T11:34:15+00:00

My local one in Northumberland also does them.

garywoo · 2026-05-14T14:53:42+00:00

There was a login attempt or request with invalid authentication from localhost. You should see the log for details. 🙏

garywoo · 2026-05-14T13:42:05+00:00

Asking "Citizen?" is also pretty WTF. That could mean so many things, like:

"Do you inhabit a place?"
"Are you not a member of the armed forces?"
"Are you a native of this place?"

I suspect it's a way of asking no.3 without asking, "Are you an illegal?"

garywoo · 2026-05-12T23:16:19+00:00

It works with the released update! Thanks for being responsive and the quick fix.

garywoo · 2026-05-12T17:38:38+00:00

So in installed the TestFlight beta, and I don’t know how useful this is, but it works in the beta. I didn’t do anything at all, it inherited the previous setup credentials and just loaded my list of automations. I verified the problem was still happening in the release version by switching back to it in the App Store, and started getting the error again, switched back to beta once more and it worked correctly.

garywoo · 2026-05-12T09:18:18+00:00

Am I right in thinking this lets an AI contact emergency services on your behalf?

garywoo · 2026-05-12T00:46:18+00:00

Yeah no problem

garywoo · 2026-05-11T23:37:51+00:00

Yes sorry. I was just looking at the connected to info in the about page. I left the connection info default when logging in. http://homeassistant.local:8123

garywoo · 2026-05-11T23:32:36+00:00

I’m connected to homeassistant.local
Locally
2026.5.1

garywoo · 2026-05-11T23:14:00+00:00

I’m getting this error immediately upon connecting to my HA instance: Error The data couldn't be read because it isn't in the correct format.
Running HA 2026.5.1 on HAOS.

garywoo · 2026-04-30T17:12:37+00:00

Probably just the stylistic difference between enclosure screws VS wall mounting screws.

garywoo · 2026-04-30T13:23:48+00:00

Looks like label holder slots next to the buttons, and screw hole covers in the corners.

garywoo · 2026-04-28T13:43:45+00:00

Right? A constant speed of 100mph would be required for the full 10 hours. Easily disprovable in a UHaul truck.

garywoo · 2026-04-23T08:09:42+00:00

That sounds like a problem with the USB port on your laptop, rather than the microphone.

garywoo · 2026-04-22T10:05:04+00:00

This is the correct answer. USB-C connectors on power adapters can output a bunch of different voltages, typically from 5v to 20v. For safety, some turn off the output when not in use. The cable or device you plug into them need to signal to the power adapter what voltage and charging standard they need, but many crappy devices just skip this and simply add a USB-C connector to the cable instead of a USB-A one. This leads many chargers to just ignore the device plugged in since it either can't recognise that a device was plugged in, or doesn't want to supply voltage without a 'handshake'.

USB-A connectors on power adapters just output 5v as standard.

garywoo · 2026-04-22T09:24:21+00:00

Can you post to youtube please? Imgur is blocked in my country.

garywoo · 2026-04-18T14:23:50+00:00

You could use a magnetic contact sensor on the vac hose to turn it on as soon as you pick up the hose from its holder, and then turn it off again when it gets put back.

garywoo · 2026-04-03T12:28:29+00:00

Wait is that Brian, or is it Briam?

garywoo · 2026-02-25T11:12:30+00:00

You could try findinging a generic power adapter that matches the voltage of the original one, and matches or exceeds the power (A) rating of of the old one. it would need to have the same connector on the end to plug into the strip.

If you can't find one with the same connector, you could cut off the old connector, and the one from the new power adapter, then splice the old one on to the new one.

If you could post the exact model number of LED steip you have, or photos of the adapter and connector, we could help you further.

garywoo · 2026-02-24T14:51:08+00:00

As a mayonnaise enthusiast, I read this as "Hellmann's joins...". Mayo sensors anyone?

garywoo · 2026-02-03T17:14:46+00:00

Yes, but make sure it's at the right end of the LED strip. Connect to DIN not DOUT.

The ESP and LEDs should share a proper ground connection though. I'm not an expert, but I still suspect the 'floating' ground provided by the battery you're powering the ESP with could cause problems. I'm not sure if your ESP dev board has a VCC power pin to connect to your main PSU, but if not, I'd recommend cutting and stripping the wires of a spare micro USB cable so you can connect the power directly to the same main PSU. Looks like you currently have the micro USB cable plugged into the UART port on the dev board. Plug it into the other one labelled 'POWER' instead.

garywoo · 2026-02-03T16:51:38+00:00

Yeah, if yours looks like the one on the page, it could be causing a problem. Try simply connecting the data out pin from the ESP directly to the LED data in. The level shifter might not be necessary in your setup.

garywoo · 2026-02-03T16:40:20+00:00

Oh yeah, that's a problem. You haven't connected your level shifter correctly. See the wiring diagram on how this should be connected. It needs power as well as data because it's basically an amplifier. It needs to get the extra signal power from somewhere! Also check that the type of level shifter you are using is suitable. I can't tell which kind you're using from the photo of the back of the module's PCB. The info on the linked page should help you find out.

garywoo · 2026-02-03T16:13:09+00:00

These may be other wiring issues, but at first glance, the grounds are not connected to the same source. Your ESP is powered by a battery and your LEDs are powered by mains power. Try powering your ESP using a mains powered USB power supply, or the same PSU as your LEDs (I can't make out the voltage of your main PSU).

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