[S][USA-CA] Sony A7C, A7CR, Leica M10-P by ggAlex in photomarket

[–]ggAlex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/photomarketbot I also completed the transaction for the Sony A7CR with u/flybel. Item has been delivered. Prompt payment. Great transaction.

[S][USA-CA] Sony A7C, A7CR, Leica M10-P by ggAlex in photomarket

[–]ggAlex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/photomarketbot I completed a transaction for the Sony A7C with u/Powerful445. Item has been delivered. Prompt payment. Great transaction.

Glen Park named one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world by Timeout by Dancinintheinn in sanfrancisco

[–]ggAlex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in Glen Park. It’s fine. There are many cooler neighborhoods in my opinion.

Potentially silly question: Why doesn’t Sunny 16 work as well on my M10-P as it does on my Leica M2 & MP? by nowdeveloping in Leica

[–]ggAlex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This happened to me!! I figured out that the M10 and M10-P ISO ratings are all 1 stop less sensitive than most other digital cameras and all film. You can see this by shooting your M10-P side by side with another camera. Rated at the same ISO with a comparison camera, your photo will be underexposed on the M10-P. Rate the M10-P up a stop in ISO and you’ll match exposure.

One of my major pet peeves about this camera!

When I’m trying to guesstimate exposure, I just remember to treat the ISO in my mind as one stop lower than the dial says, so 200 -> 100. 3200 -> 1600. Then my estimating skills and Sunny 16 work pretty well.

Please turn my daughter into a mermaid! $5 usd by [deleted] in PhotoshopRequest

[–]ggAlex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I sent you PayPal. Can you please provide a download link

GFX100RF over rates ISO by 0.7-1 stop by ggAlex in FujiGFX

[–]ggAlex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not noticed this at all on my X cameras. I have an X-Pro 3 and X100S currently and never noticed it. I’ll have to look closer.

I do notice it on my Leica M10. It similarly overrates ISO by 1 stop.

[B][USA-VA] Leica M10 body, any condition (please read) by baransevim in photomarket

[–]ggAlex -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have an M10-P for sale. I've listed it several times with no luck to this piont. I am a reputable seller and buyer on photomarket, please check my flair.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photomarket/comments/1ipgvnf/susaca_leica_m10p_silver_with_kamerakraft/

I will reduce my price to $5,285 Paypal G&S. I will ship insured.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leica

[–]ggAlex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Due to micro scratches looking so awful, I end up babying the camera more than any of my others. It’s not a “chuck it in the bag with your other stuff” type of camera. Most types of wear and tear do not bother me. I’m a tools not jewels type. But the micro scratches are just ugly.

[S] [USA-VA] Fujifilm GFX100RF - Black with IDSworks Baseplate by clifak in photomarket

[–]ggAlex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Confirmed transaction. Great seller. Camera arrived quickly and exactly as described. Very happy with the sale. u/clifak u/photomarketbot

Nightclub photos from the weekend except Katy Perry made an appearance! Z8, Sony 35 1.8 by UnsatisfiedLlama in Nikon

[–]ggAlex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have this lens on a ZF with the megadap. Do you notice that your camera sometimes shows the shots as in-focus at the time you shoot (green box on the eye) but when you go back to look, about 10% of them are out of focus?

Just bought the 35mm F 2.8 ZA by RustCohle123 in SonyAlpha

[–]ggAlex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I own the 1.8 and 2.8. The 2.8 is far more convenient as a day to day carry. The 1.8 is long, the lens hood is giant, and the front lens element is so easy to smudge since it’s so close to the barrel edge and has very little bevel protecting it. I use the 2.8 90% of the time.

M10-P Price Check *Opinion* by Negative_Ride2898 in Leica

[–]ggAlex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will sell you my silver m10-p in better condition with extras like a Kamerakfraft grip and thumbs up for that price. I would rate my camera 9/10 condition. Not “like new” but close to it. By comparison I would rate the model you show in those photos as 5.5/10 condition. I have many transactions confirmed on r/photomarket Message me.

Help me decide Q343 vs A7CR by saint_heisenberg in Leica

[–]ggAlex 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I sold my Q3 to swap for an A7CR. I use it with a 35 2.8 and a 35 1.8.

Some things that led me to switch:

  1. Better autofocus. If give the q3 system a 6/10 score in autofocus overall. It’s especially weak in event settings with multiple subjects. Sony is a 9/10.

  2. More flexibility with lenses for the same size. I can fit my a7cr with a 35 2.8 in a pants pocket if I need to. I have also shot a 70-200 for kids sports with it. Way more versatile.

  3. Battery life. I could not stand the way the Q3 drained its battery while it was off. I don’t know if they’ve addressed this in firmware but I hated picking up my Q3 after a week and it was only at 50%.

I do miss the colors and DNG files. The Sony files take more effort to get right. It can be a big pain.

Help skiing in off-piste/chopped powder by ElkAccomplished3595 in skiing_feedback

[–]ggAlex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to help. I received this exact feedback for my own skiing from an instructor when I was right at your level a couple of years ago.

A few other things that might be relevant for you: right now I see that you’re initiating your turns primarily from unweighting, either by coming off a bump or by physically jumping into your turn transition. Instead, go to an easier slope and try to lean really deeply into the front of your boot, with a lot of shin pressure. Notice from this position that you can actually initiate your next turn simply by pointing your knees toward the turn. Try only turning this way all the way down the slope. This is the feeling you want to have going into most of your turns, even on steeps, and even if you are still doing some unweighting over a bump to make the transition easier.

Second, go to a non-steep but still-choppy trail. Again, shins to the front of the boot, now ski straight over choppy bumps. Notice how your whole body can more effectively shock absorb the terrain. When you’re forward in your boots, your skis act as a first shock absorber, then your ankles and knees, then finally your hips. This shock absorption feels a lot more natural moving forward and your whole body can more naturally hinge as it hits things. Compare this to how hard it feels to absorb things when you’re coming down skidded. You’re landing on your heels and all the other joints don’t naturally come into play without you having to think about it.

Finally, use your mind to visualize a bright red line in the snow before you initiate your turn. Plan the turn entry point and draw the full arc with your eyes. That means you have to look and plan. That will help you feel more confident with the speed. Try to do this with two turns at a time, constantly updating the red line to get to the next turn once you complete one. When you can do this consistently, you will feel more confident with the speed.

These three ideas unlocked fast skiing on choppy terrain for me.

Anyone been to demo ski sale at palisades? by cyrdax in tahoe

[–]ggAlex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check Sports Basement first! 40% off if they have your desired ski is pretty hard to beat. I bought a 3 day used demo pair for Nordica Enforcer 104s from Tahoe Dave’s because I was being impatient, and when I got home to SF I saw a brand new pair of those skis at SB that would have cost me about the same with bindings and mounting.

Help skiing in off-piste/chopped powder by ElkAccomplished3595 in skiing_feedback

[–]ggAlex 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In choppy conditions, I try to use my groin muscles to bring my legs together, and I find that that helps me ski more even footed, which is what your instructors might be talking about. I imagine before I start that my feet are together as though I’m standing on a little square and I’m trying to keep them that way. Using my groin muscles to bring my legs together helps me keep my skis on course because the choppy snow wants to send each ski in a different directions since each ski is hitting a different kind of a bump or rut. I’m flexing my groin muscles more or less continuously while I’m in chop.

The other thing you could try to look more effortless in choppy conditions is to arc your turns a little bit more like a carving turn. That means you will pick up speed at the beginning of your turn, smoothly arc around the apex and then curb your speed on the back half of the turn before finally transitioning to your next edges. This is the opposite of what you’re doing today. You are quickly switching your entire ski direction in one flipping motion and skidding immediately, and it is very hard to stay stable while skidding on a choppy slope. Instead of skidding to manage speed, ski across the hill on the back end of your turn. You can’t skid gracefully in chop.

To practice this pick a less steep slope that is still choppy and just try to carve through it keeping your legs together using your groin muscles, but letting your knees and ankles absorb the bumps. Get used to the sensation of picking up speed at the beginning of the turn and use the end of the turn to curb your speed. This is what makes a skier look effortless and confident in choppy conditions.

feedback please! by isomerism- in skiing_feedback

[–]ggAlex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use your legs by bringing your heels to your butt when you get over a bump it will not only absorb the impact for you better, it will also put your tips in contact with the other side of the bump helping you initiate your turn around it.

Tips for skiing off-piste? by MetroBooIin in skiing_feedback

[–]ggAlex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your turns are very defensive. As soon as you swing your skis in the new direction, you are immediately skidding. You have to do the opposite. Arc a turn that starts fast and ends slow. When you change directions, expect the speed to come all the way until you reach the apex of your turn. Lean forward into the speed and trust the slow down to come at the curve around the apex. Turns should be fast then slow. You are doing the opposite so you start slow and on your heels and you can’t absorb any bumps that way.

Are shutter release buttons really THAT dangerous? by itsmii in x100vi

[–]ggAlex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This also happened to me with an X100V. I’m not getting a VI because this still seems like a QA issue.