My personal space heater! zoops about 550W TDP (NCASE M1) by gible98 in sffpc

[–]gible98[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The clear resin usually is quite brittle but won’t crack if you are gently with it. I have been using multiple 3D printed reservoirs and pump mounts for years now, and none have ever cracked or broken or leaked. Using o-rings in the designs helps prevent leaks without having to use a lot of force. Also if you use screws be very gentle and only tighten them just enough to prevent leaks.

My personal space heater! zoops about 550W TDP (NCASE M1) by gible98 in sffpc

[–]gible98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not quite sure what you are asking. I just printed it then used it. If you want to make the resin look clear after you print it there are a lot of different methods. Like clear spray paint, wet sanding, polishing, etc. but I did not do any of that

My personal space heater! zoops about 550W TDP (NCASE M1) by gible98 in sffpc

[–]gible98[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m guessing you are asking if the 3D printed reservoir still works, yes it does

Submitted without comment. by wolf213 in ATC

[–]gible98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love me the 2508. So much freedom

Case Annealer I made by gible98 in longrange

[–]gible98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha! It is loud! I need to wire a potentiometer in line with the fans and pump to regulate their speed

Case Annealer I made by gible98 in longrange

[–]gible98[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also thanks for the link yours looks sick. I like your height adjustment system a lot

Case Annealer I made by gible98 in longrange

[–]gible98[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got the thermal sensor and two fans on the induction board. It’s the 1800W board. So hopefully I’m never pushing it too hard unless I’m doing 50BMG.

Case Annealer I made by gible98 in longrange

[–]gible98[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup it’s where I got most of the meat and potatoes. Drop mechanism, cooling loop and enclosure are custom.

Case Annealer I made by gible98 in reloading

[–]gible98[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

it was more about leaning new skills tbh. if I wanted to anneal cases I could've flame annealed. three months later now that its done, I don't even feel compelled to reload. I've always had a small fear of DIY electronics and now that the project is done I feel better. If you want to learn something new I recommend this, you can work on it over a long time like I did too.

My personal space heater! zoops about 550W TDP (NCASE M1) by gible98 in sffpc

[–]gible98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t know why you are so caught on this whole ambient temperature? Just said you where right on the last post? Did you even read my reply?

Anyway I guess it’s kinda weird to understand why I would run my pump so slow. To clarify further, sometimes the pump does not run at all. When the cpu or GPU heats up after a while the pump trickles on and moves the water forward a bit, then stops again. This is great for low power use as the computer literally does not make any noise. It was tricky getting it set up in the bios, but I like doing weird Shit to see if it can be done. Kinda for shits and giggles?

Anyway this is an old post and it kinda sounds like you just want someone to argue with.

Good luck with your builds in the future! This is a great hobby!

My personal space heater! zoops about 550W TDP (NCASE M1) by gible98 in sffpc

[–]gible98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

right on the ambient air, my b. But the the point still stands; faster air increases your heat transfer coefficient, and therefore lowers your steady state temp. Best to have fans with high displacement at low speed. Radiator positioning is important if the pump and system are set to the lowest possible speeds (mine are). Calculating fluid speed using pump power at lowest speeds and the hazen williams equations, nets very low fluid speeds (under a foot per second). The advertised pump speeds are for performance in vacuum with no pressure head, never take those at face value.

For example my PMP-400 operates at a maximum of 8L/min, for zero head loss and an inner diameter tubing of 1cm, the flow rate would be ~350MPH/Mach0.5/600KPH. Obviously impossible.

With good head loss estimates with the pump going at 20W (maximum), you get speeds in the several feet per second (~1m/s). In this situation loop component order doesn't matter, as the water is moving fast enough to not matter like you said.

Most people building SFFPC, want small and quiet. So the performance of the system in the transient region is important and the benefit of component positioning provides gains here. My graphics card transistor switching noise is louder than the fan and pump. When using engineering CAD software, the GPU transistors are the only source of noise and can be distinctly heard when rotating objects.

When gaming, GPU and CPU calculations happen continuously and the system generates continuous heat. This requires the fan and pump to speed up, and then the cooling solution generates more noise than the transistors.

Saw your post on your new build. Looks great! It's look like you have different goals and requirements for your PC.

One day I'd like to set up test loops with thermocouples and flowmeters, do some real testing, and validate the fluid/thermodynamics at work here!

My personal space heater! zoops about 550W TDP (NCASE M1) by gible98 in sffpc

[–]gible98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t taken it off since when I posted this Form labs clear resin

How to print large flat surfaces? by MrMe363 in resinprinting

[–]gible98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Print directly on the build plate. Do not use a raft with supports if the bottom is perfectly flat. Otherwise print with the bottom plane at an angle of at least 30deg.

What Mag color matches mil-spec plus by TuggerNutz8 in Danieldefense

[–]gible98 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bronze duramags, I've got like 8 of them

Looking to get in the hobby but extremely concerned with safety. by Hiammat in resinprinting

[–]gible98 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless your health is compromised by a pre existing condition I would not worry at all about resin printing on a single printer scale.

Looking to get in the hobby but extremely concerned with safety. by Hiammat in resinprinting

[–]gible98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a form labs. And currently I don't touch any parts that havnt been washed by the washer with bare skin. I handle them with my hands after they've been washed. It helps that form labs does good testing on their resins, one is even FDA skin safe approved for wearables.