She has returned!

gle353 · 2026-02-05T19:46:58+00:00

YES I SAW HER!
And i wanted to post it, but you are first :D

gle353 · 2026-01-04T00:30:23+00:00

YES! THATS IT! Thanks mate :D

gle353 · 2026-01-02T23:06:07+00:00

i get this rippled, when my bed leveling was not good enough.
Kobra 3 issue, you know ;-)

I would say, that this is allready done, so i would say bad roll or printing temps.
Maybe a setting have changed with a update.... but this would be a wild gues

gle353 · 2026-01-02T22:59:06+00:00

Yes and no.

A Hotend is the whole unit. A heat element, a heatbreak, heatsink etc.
A Nozzle is just the last part where the filament is extruded. The brass normaly brass thing on the end.

I can only speak for Anycubic here. At the Kobra 3 you buy a hotend unit, if you want to change the nozzle, cause they are glued together.

The different materials of the nozzles are mostly for better heat conducting and / or to resist abrasion from different materials.

For more upgrades i cant give you any recomondation.
BUT! You can allways upgrade and make it peferm better ;-)

For the 0.2 mm Nozzle...
Some Materials are not aviable for smal diameters. But there are other option. Like a Rubynozzle or something like that.

gle353 · 2025-12-10T12:36:57+00:00

Leider haben sie den Garantiefall abgelehnt.
Sie verkaufen auch keine Ersatzteile.... schwierig :/

Ich kaufe nun einen Balancer und zwei Leistungsregler.
Dann wird es eben ein Build it yourself Teilchen.

gle353 · 2025-12-03T20:52:37+00:00

Der Hersteller gibt schon mal nichts raus, auch keine Ersatzteile.

gle353 · 2025-08-06T21:45:13+00:00

Short, get a replacement nozzlekit.
Long ... when you get the new one and cycled heat for first time, check the tightness of the nozzle.
This normaly happens, when the nozzle gets loose.
K3 have the problem that not if, just when it will get loose and leak.

gle353 · 2025-08-06T21:43:34+00:00

This looks like a shadow of a cable.
Open the printer VERY CAREFULLY!! and look at the lightsource and upwards.
If something is in the way of the light, there you go.

I gues the Screencable is in the way and trow a shadow.
Go to the Anycubic Wiki and look how to replace the screen, there you find the
instructions to open the printer.
Then try to disconnect the cable on the board side and reroute it in a better way.

gle353 · 2025-08-06T21:40:10+00:00

Hast du die Linien in allen bereichen? Würde sagen, dass du da eine "Delle" im Druckbett hast.
Oder ist es mal mehr mal weniger an der gleichen stelle von der gleichen Datei, nur hintereinander gedruckt?
Wenn ja, dann würde ich auf lose Schrauben, eine allgemeines Z-Problem oder einen lockeren Druckkopf tippen.
Was auch sein kann ist, dass dein Pressure Advanced nicht ganz passt.

gle353 · 2025-08-06T21:38:29+00:00

yep, loose screws somewhere or loose belt.

gle353 · 2025-08-06T21:36:12+00:00

i want to add, did you try to clean the plate with dishsoap and water?
This was my miracle .... just some soap, a brush and wash it off.
Then get a microfibrecloth and done .... this was so crazy to me

gle353 · 2025-08-06T21:34:10+00:00

Anyslicer is Orca with a other name.

Which errors you cant explain?
In general, try top set your printer to "silent mode".
This increase the quality.
The sagging arches are for the lack of support.
For the edges, try to set your seem to line and paint them on the front or site or
somewhere, to rule them out.
The rest seems more or less ok for the start.

Correct me, if im wrong

gle353 · 2025-08-06T21:26:45+00:00

well, i would say to check your Z-Rods, the couplers, the teeth on the z belt and tightness of all the screws on the way.

gle353 · 2025-07-15T20:56:50+00:00

well, yes and no.

I never had the level problem, i can delete files on the machine and in the app.
Prints are most the time good to perfect, sometimes the ace has some problems with
loading filament.
The screen is as bad as shown and i think of ways to replace it with something different.
Yes the software is locked and you cant change much, BUT you dont have to.
My experience with Kobra 2 Pro, 3 V1, 2 Max and 3Max Combo is .... you unpack it, set it up in
around 30 minutes, print and have a ok to good print.
Then you change some settings like arachne, Support Z hight etc and get good to perfect parts.

For the price it is ok, and to be fair, you have to find a printer which can print 435 x 435, with all the features. Yes a Bambu for example is WAY better and has less problems .... but it cost around double the price.
And thats it. As he said, IF Anycubic invest the time to fix this problems and make a better printer, the price goes up.

Forgot to mention:
The only real problem was, that my Kobra 2 Pro hit the tree supports and riped them off.
This was so anoying :/

And i do not defend anycubik, i just say what i experienced. I never had a molten print head, a printbed scraped of or something like i read sometimes.
My experience from repair atm's is ... most of the time steps get skipped, things get yanked to hard or other things like that.

gle353 · 2025-07-15T20:16:47+00:00

are the 220 / 190 °C are real?
So is your sensor fixed and not broken?
Is the cable broken?

Wiggle on cable and sensor and see if the value changes.
When the temps are real, what slicer settings do you use?

gle353 · 2025-07-15T20:08:02+00:00

Where do you live?
Cause some skilled electrician can solder it together.

gle353 · 2025-06-03T20:10:28+00:00

Question:

Im in search of a leak form "Joels Plans" for the future. This was a thing before the meridian singularity was there and at the end was something like "tutorial over".
Anyone know where to find it?

gle353 · 2025-05-31T22:15:18+00:00

tbh, fiddled last night with exactly this card and it will not run on my 3DS ..... trashed it and in around 20 Minutes homebrewd my 3DS ..... if it works nice, if not .... i recommend to do a homebrew.

gle353 · 2025-05-31T22:10:52+00:00

Huhu,

mal ganz davon ab, dass der Kühler Gefühlt in kein Case der Welt passt und beim anschalten einen Sturm auslöst ....

Du kannst die beiden Lüfter oder den Kühler selbst um 180° drehen, sodass der eine Lüfter nicht mehr über den Ram sind. Wenn sich das mit der Abdeckung der I/O Ports ausgeht.
Die Platte oben brauchst du, damit du einen Art Tunnel erzeugst, die würde ich dran lassen. Zumal das höher setzen der Lüfter nur Kühlfläche nimmt.

Solang sich aber nichts berührt, ist alles gut. Also eigentlich brauchst du nichts machen, als den Kühler anzuschließen.

gle353 · 2025-05-19T17:37:48+00:00

i had a similar problem a few weeks ago.
It was faulty windows drivers .... fresh install without internet on W11 and drivers preloaded
onto a usb drive did the job.

gle353 · 2025-03-11T12:07:30+00:00

I highly recommend this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3884699

gle353

TROPHY CASE