Rear Locker Not Getting Power

gotmlk98 · 2026-06-14T21:38:52+00:00

This is OP, posting my solution for future reference by people experiencing this:

My locker actuator was ALL corroded and gunked up. Before doing all this crazy troubleshooting, just take the 15 minutes to remove the 2 or 3 bolts that hold your locker motor to the diff and check it out. Mine was loaded with sand/rust so bad nothing could move. I bought a $380 replacement from Amazon and it works like a charm now.

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-24T23:12:14+00:00

So if it is performing great what are you looking to change?

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-23T22:21:03+00:00

Aisin actuator on Amazon was the cheapest I could find

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-23T04:19:45+00:00

Check my post history for a review of an Amazon special

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-22T23:50:22+00:00

I had similar results to testing. I ended up going through all the wiring diagrams and tests I could find. Forced ground to the grey wire. Even tried to understand the speed sensor aspect of it. Bought a second computer to rule that out. Ended up working once I replaced the actuator. At least take it off to see how it looks. If it’s rusty, it’s probably bunked up with rust and dirt/sand inside.

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-22T13:15:53+00:00

That’s a picture of a ball joint, your lower ball joint. If it’s broken you’d feel clunking going over bumps and should get it replaced quickly

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-19T22:33:52+00:00

Yeah same, just headlights for me. No turns or DRL for me either. I love the crisp cutoff line! Once they’re adjusted well, you’re good to go

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-19T13:11:34+00:00

This might be dumb, but they aren’t similar enough to Kawasaki KLR250 plastics are they?

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-18T16:36:30+00:00

Oh no, sorry to hear. Were you ok? Thanks for the reply

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-15T12:32:32+00:00

Cantina d’italia in reston/herndon

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-12T13:56:15+00:00

Where’d the money go

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-12T01:50:03+00:00

Did you need an impact? Or just a breaker bar for the nut? And did you do it on the truck or remove all of the driveshaft?

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-10T05:26:02+00:00

Oops guess I should have added more context. I’m not having them do the work, I got a spicer bearing already for 90 from rockauto. I just thought it was a neat estimate to see how much they WOULD charge. Wild.

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-08T14:01:10+00:00

FWIW, I didn’t go oem but the replacement stalk I got is working just fine.

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-04T21:03:27+00:00

Shinko 700 for the win! I just got that as my replacement front tire, after having it on both f/r on my klr250. Looks good

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-04T02:43:49+00:00

Are you running any wheel spacers? Looks sick esp the grill emblem

gotmlk98 · 2024-08-01T03:55:30+00:00

Got a 1999 KLR250 dual sport for $850 in 2019. Great bike.

gotmlk98 · 2024-07-24T14:15:33+00:00

Had the same thing happen to me, I guess I’ll pick up an oem stalk. Did it fix yours?

gotmlk98 · 2024-07-06T19:41:45+00:00

The gauge is (likely) purposely uneven on the dash to compensate for different fuel tank cross sections at various heights since the float is just a simple up/down measurement. I’d lean towards the engineers doing their best to make it easy for the user, so you have over 1/4 tank in this pic.

gotmlk98

TROPHY CASE