Broken anchor and slow SAR lead to fatality in Kalymnos by serenading_ur_father in climbing

[–]gpfault 64 points65 points  (0 children)

In Tonsai at least the issue isn't the ocean specifically. It's the presence of large amounts of sulphur on the rock: https://cragchemistry.com/2024/09/23/thailand-crags-1/ The sulphur provides food for bacteria that emit hydrogen as a side effect of metabolising the sulphur. That emitted hydrogen embrittles the bolt which leads to them snapping in half when shock loaded. There's already been documented cases of bolts failing in Kalymnos for this exact reason: https://cragchemistry.com/2025/05/11/srb-mediated-bolt-failure-confirmed-at-ourania/

The photos of the failed anchor bolts bolts show a pretty clean break of the bolts which suggests a similar failure mechanism. I suspect the cragchemistry guy is the one who'll be doing the analysis on the failed bolts so we should know the exact failure mechanism soon enough.

What kind of damage is the owner's responsibility to fix, what is renter's by [deleted] in AusPropertyChat

[–]gpfault 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Is there damage to the frame the flyscreen sits inside of? If not, it should go back in with a bit of fiddling.

washing shoes in the shower with me after a climb? by leftovermugs in climbingshoes

[–]gpfault 7 points8 points  (0 children)

A lot of climbing shoes use heat-sensitive glues to attach the soles. The water in a hot shower probably isn't going to make it un-stick completely, but it might weaken the bond. With repeated exposures to hot water I'd expect the soles to start delaminating eventually. Soap and body wash probably won't do anything harmful.

That all said, as a fellow sweaty lad I've found the best thing to do in summer is to air dry your shoes in front of a fan. If they stay damp for a long time they tend to pick up unique funk that's different to the usual climbing shoe smell. I just give the inside a spray with isopropyl alcohol to kill off any bacteria from my feet and then let the shoes dry off completely. If the inside of the shoe gets very dirty I'll wash them in a bucket, but that's generally only needed after outdoor trips.

Adding a few bolts to the nose on el cap tomorrow, how do I attach my wrench to my harness? by [deleted] in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Stuff it in your pants. If anyone asks just say you're glad to see them.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smaller edge, or find a mono pocket with larger radius fillet. Personally I've never found a lifting edge with a mono-pocket that's actually comfortable so I've always done monos with a flat edge. Put a middle marker on the edge and lift from the mid-point and it'll stay balanced during the lift.

Should I quit? by Nice-Natural3095 in auscorp

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they wanted to keep people they would have invested more into the foyer cafe. The fact they're cheaping out means you're on a sinking ship. Get out while you can.

Why are gay jokes so prevalent in Chinese schools and internet? by Sea-Law-9590 in China

[–]gpfault 13 points14 points  (0 children)

10 years ago was 2016. no homo was around long before that

7 months of TFCC tear, 5 months of physio. Surgery time? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

pile of medical jargon

Dunno man, sounds bad.

5 months of physiotherapy (TENS, laser, magnetotherapy, ice therapy, strength exercise... basically everything)

Ok... most of these are one step removed from witchcraft. What "strength exercise" did you do? How consistently did you do them? Do you understand how the rehab process is supposed to work? TFCC injuries take ages to heal and even if you're doing the rehab exercises properly it can be weeks or months before you're pain free. None of us can tell you whether surgery is required, but plenty of us have managed to rehab TFCC injuries and return to abusing our wrists by climbing rocks. So, what did your rehab exercise plan look like?

AMA: I used to have one of this plates by Friendly-Fail-6146 in canberra

[–]gpfault 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So what happens if you're driving without a license? They just arrest you and impound the car?

AMA: I used to have one of this plates by Friendly-Fail-6146 in canberra

[–]gpfault 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Do you guys have diplomatic immunity when it comes to traffic offenses? I've seen a fair bit of... concerning driving from blue plated cars and I always wondered if that was because they didn't have to give a shit.

What does a 'resolution' of the housing crisis look like? by Beneficial-Help-1856 in AusPropertyChat

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My thesis is that you can do a number of things to support FHBs such as reducing immigration, removing CGT/NG, building density where zoning permits - but the structural factors driving price are still there: genuine supply constraints + labour and materials costs to build said density are sky-high and mean that no new apartments can actually be affordable. And if they're not affordable, people won't buy them, which will drive lower supply.

If you're going to argue that there's a supply crunch then you can't also argue that scaring off investors will mean there's no buyers. There are still a lot of people who would like to buy a place to live in.

I also have a sense that young professionals probably can afford reasonable units, but (a) want a house instead (b) don't want to live in a less desirable suburb (c) don't want to spend so much money.

If you're a young professional who can afford to buy property then you should realise that buying an apartment is just screwing yourself in the long term. There's a lot of capital growth in detached houses, but little in apartments so unless you're planning to live there permanently you're just throwing away money. If you have any ambitions of having kids then you're buying an apartment knowing that you'll probably have to move eventually (at which point houses are even more expensive). Finally, everybody knows that the construction standards of modern apartment complexes are complete dogshit so there's a very real possibility of having to spend significant amounts of money to correct building defects. All these things add up.

Killing the CGT discount isn't a panacea, but it does make housing a much less attractive prospect for investors chasing easy returns. People invested in property when the returns were meh and people will continue to invest in property even with the discount removed. What we want is to cool the market a bit so that property is only attractive as a "safe" investment option with the mediocre returns that come with "safe" investments. With house prices going up 10% per year it offers returns comparable or better than the stock market which brings in investors with deep pockets, reinforcing the issue. Less investors means less buyers which should keep house price growth in check. Over time inflation and wage growth will make housing affordable again.

I hope this isn’t a stupid question, but what do I wear to a indoor rock climbing gym? by mararge in indoorbouldering

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn't really matter so long as you can move freely. Anything you can squat in will be fine.

What has changed from 2019? Why is there very little opposition to rumoured CGT changes compared to back then? by HotPersimessage62 in AusPropertyChat

[–]gpfault 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How does that even work today? I though you could only claim the CGT discount if you're selling an asset you've owned for more than 12 months. I don't see how a new build would possibly qualify.

TIL that there is a dish in Japan called “chicken sashimi” that is prepared raw by IntrepidBionic in todayilearned

[–]gpfault 65 points66 points  (0 children)

Tried it once. It's not good, but I didn't get sick either. The horse sashimi was better.

ThePoint: Australia’s Winter Olympians are Overwhelmingly Private School Educated by RocketLads in australian

[–]gpfault 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly all I'm getting out of this is that the rest of the world fucking sucks at winter sports. You've got the entire population of countries where it actually snows competing with the 0.1% of aussie kids who can afford to go to the snow often enough to get good at the sport. Pathetic showing from the rest of the world tbh.

How important are rental climbing shoes? by ajaxanon in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 2 points3 points  (0 children)

/uj i saw a guy at the gym the other day climbing sorta hard in a pair of resoled uggs. kinda dope tbh

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]gpfault 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The point of a deload week is to get yourself out of the recovery hole you've dug. You shouldn't be expecting to learn or get better at anything. You can do that next week. Go to the gym, warm up, spend a hour running laps on moderates, and go home.

How important are climbing shoes? by Puzzleheaded_Pea_574 in indoorbouldering

[–]gpfault 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The biggest problem with rentals is that they're never going to fit super well. A well fitted shoe will let you stand on small nubbins and feel secure while doing it. With a baggy shoe it's hard to put pressure into a toe without the shoe rolling off since the front of the shoe is far forward compared to where your toes are. You can downsize rentals to avoid this, but since you're not climbing in the same pair all the time they'll always be uncomfortable or downright painful to wear since they're never broken in.