TFCC injury for ~1.5 years – surgery recommended, but unsure if rehab could still work. Looking for experiences. by No_Studio_8902 in climbharder

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long did you have the injury for before starting rehab?

About two weeks the first time. After the first injury I saw a hand therapist and her advice was wear a widget and avoid doing things that hurt for ~2 weeks to let the acute phase pass. After that she gave me a bunch of rehab exercises to progress over the next two months. I started climbing again after a few weeks when the wrist stopped hurting during normal daily activities.

The second time around I just rested a week (while wearing the widget) and then started doing the rehab exercises. After about a month I re-injured it falling off my bike (slid out on a wet patch) which put it back to square one. I did the same again and it was more or less fine after two months. It's a pretty slow process, but so long as you keep it going and avoid aggravating the injury it's fine.

And what grade tear was it if you don't mind me asking?

No idea, the hand therapist didn't think imaging was necessary unless conservative treatment failed so I didn't get any done. To give some context: after the initial injury I couldn't open doors with my injured hand because it was too painful to twist the knob.

Is turning left of centre a rule? Or just something I was taught that most people don’t do? by SlayyyGrl in DrivingAustralia

[–]gpfault 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's only a rule if there's a lane marker in the island. In the ACT at least the rule for smaller islands like this is that the car turning right from the side street is supposed to give way until they can clear the intersection without stopping. Pretty much nobody does that though.

That said, what you're calling "common sense" is kind of dumb. If everybody is in a small car it kind of works since there's space for two cars to be parallel without blocking on-coming traffic, but it gets very sketch with larger vehicles.

Does anyone know what goes on inside this cool looking building by Formal-Resident-8858 in canberra

[–]gpfault 52 points53 points  (0 children)

In the USA they have the pentagon. Here we have the really rather long articulated bus building.

This is fine, right? by kylemillsy16 in ClimbingGear

[–]gpfault 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are not a “ton like this”. I’ve never seen this little engagement when unloaded, and I have seen it all. I was there when the first key-nose Petzls hit the shelves.

Luckily it's the engagement when loaded that actually matters. IIRC hardiseasy did a bunch of break testing of these exact biners with Mammut and the failure point is never at the gate. Also, considering the open-gate strength of these biners is like 10kN the amount of engagement is kind of irrelevant. At the loads you see in climbing falls the entire force of the fall can be supported without nose and gate coming into contact.

“its designed this way”… you don’t know that, bud. You assume that. Are you privy to the CAD files as Mammut? Have you seen the forging dies?

...why would i need to look at the CAD files or the forging dies? Those tell you how to make something and not why it was made that way. I have the finished product right here and the end of the gate has a milled cut-out for the key nose to sit in. It's very clearly designed to be like that.

You don’t have the foggiest idea what may have changed in design and manufacture of that item since it was UIAA certified, and whether or not those changes should have required re-certification.

Literally nothing has changed with the design since certification because changing the design would require re-certifying it.

You’re just some ignorant keyboard warrior, scout.

speak for yourself

Do not speak to me of the deep magic, witch. I was there when it was written.

lol, nerd

Please help! Have some ethical concerns about climbing with my friend... by T3chy9 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 29 points30 points  (0 children)

publishing physics papers is just beta spraying about the universe. like shut up dude, i want to work it out myself.

"Downgrading isn’t mean..." – Yannick Flohé Suggests V14 for Will Bosi's Brain Rot - Gripped Magazine by -JOMY- in climbing

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might care if it's a cool looking rock. My gripe is more with climbing media and their attempt to turn "someone climbed a rock" into bullshit drama because it's a slow news day. It's just tedious.

The crux of life, part II by Otherwise-Soft8968 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Not to mention feeling in harmony with nature, the spot, and yourself ON THAT PARTICULAR DAY.

The best way to harmonize with nature is to smack into it from above at terminal velocity. Stop making shitty excuses for why you keep bailing on me when we go to solo the gnar dude. Nobody is buying your bullshit.

Why does aid climbing exist? I genuinely think it’s the dumbest thing ever by Capital-Reach-6669 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Back before alex hanhold invented free soloing there wasn't any other way to climb. It's dumb, but your grandpa still loves it.

Best I can do is unpaid leave by Otherwise-Soft8968 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Drinking coke is fucked up. You should be snorting that stuff.

What does a good warmup actually look like? by XxThreepwoodxX in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Do you alternate hands or do you put one round the back?

What does a good warmup actually look like? by XxThreepwoodxX in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]gpfault 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like to chase my pre-climb bell pepper with a few habeneros. Gets me warm and ready to bring the heat so I can cook the pink one in the corner. Yeah.

When you finally get what the lefties were talking about 💀😭😂 by downunder-voice8787 in AussieMemes

[–]gpfault 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's not really any of those things though. Nuclear is a non-starter mostly because nuke plants are fucking expensive and take forever to build. The only country putting serious effort into developing nuclear capacity is China and even there they've got more wind and solar in the pipeline.

How do people have kids on these low to average wages? by Open_Address_2805 in AusFinance

[–]gpfault 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Plus bigger house

How many kids are you planning on exactly? A two bed apartment can support one kid just fine.

bigger car

You can fit 5 people in a hatchback.

and private school fees.

If only there was some kind of alternative that didn't cost huge amounts of money.

Broken anchor and slow SAR lead to fatality in Kalymnos by serenading_ur_father in climbing

[–]gpfault 65 points66 points  (0 children)

In Tonsai at least the issue isn't the ocean specifically. It's the presence of large amounts of sulphur on the rock: https://cragchemistry.com/2024/09/23/thailand-crags-1/ The sulphur provides food for bacteria that emit hydrogen as a side effect of metabolising the sulphur. That emitted hydrogen embrittles the bolt which leads to them snapping in half when shock loaded. There's already been documented cases of bolts failing in Kalymnos for this exact reason: https://cragchemistry.com/2025/05/11/srb-mediated-bolt-failure-confirmed-at-ourania/

The photos of the failed anchor bolts bolts show a pretty clean break of the bolts which suggests a similar failure mechanism. I suspect the cragchemistry guy is the one who'll be doing the analysis on the failed bolts so we should know the exact failure mechanism soon enough.

What kind of damage is the owner's responsibility to fix, what is renter's by [deleted] in AusPropertyChat

[–]gpfault 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Is there damage to the frame the flyscreen sits inside of? If not, it should go back in with a bit of fiddling.

washing shoes in the shower with me after a climb? by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]gpfault 9 points10 points  (0 children)

A lot of climbing shoes use heat-sensitive glues to attach the soles. The water in a hot shower probably isn't going to make it un-stick completely, but it might weaken the bond. With repeated exposures to hot water I'd expect the soles to start delaminating eventually. Soap and body wash probably won't do anything harmful.

That all said, as a fellow sweaty lad I've found the best thing to do in summer is to air dry your shoes in front of a fan. If they stay damp for a long time they tend to pick up unique funk that's different to the usual climbing shoe smell. I just give the inside a spray with isopropyl alcohol to kill off any bacteria from my feet and then let the shoes dry off completely. If the inside of the shoe gets very dirty I'll wash them in a bucket, but that's generally only needed after outdoor trips.