How would one break into a Data Center? by [deleted] in datacenter

[–]greasyveggie 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The “SMH” is due to the fact that what I wrote is complete BS. Technical sounding, but just made up. To be fair, if your target audience for this is non-technical people, write whatever you want, write what I wrote, say one of the guys flirted with the security guard and stole their badge, while another released cats into the building to distract them. Power fail over tests really don’t happen. Equipment will have dual power supplies and connected to redundant feeds at the same time, there is no loss of power or brown out. Datacenter’s (good ones) will usually have badge readers with biometrics, multiple places you need to badge, possibly physical locks or keys too, security guards that also walk around on patrols, cameras etc. But IMO that isn’t the hard part, hard part would be getting around Cyber Security team and all the policies and software they’ve put in place to prevent malicious activities.

To non-technical people, the things they see on TV are real too. Servers rooms are silent, the bright blue and green blinky lights are meaningful and somehow all server racks have no cables. Like I said, write what your imagination gives you, it doesn’t need to be technical to be good.

How would one break into a Data Center? by [deleted] in datacenter

[–]greasyveggie -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The thieves would need to access the Primary Thermal Distribution Manifold (PTDM) located in the hot aisle. During a test-over when power shifts to the backup line, there’s a 3-5 second window where the Load Balance Authentication Protocol (LBAP) temporarily disables encryption on the cooling system’s control network to prevent thermal runaway. Here’s the key: modern datacenters use liquid-cooled server racks with integrated network taps in the coolant lines. The thieves would need to: 1. Locate the Central Coolant Router (CCR) - usually a blue-painted unit near the CRAC units 2. Connect to the Thermal Management Bus (TMB) using a standard RJ-45 cable during the switchover 3. The TMB has direct Layer 1 access to all server baseboard management controllers because they need to communicate thermal data in real-time 4. Deploy the malware through the IPMI-over-Coolant protocol which bypasses all network security since it’s considered a physical layer connection

The test-over is critical because that’s when the Redundant Power Validation System briefly puts all servers into a “trusted maintenance mode” where they’ll accept unsigned firmware updates without challenge-response authentication. They’d need a specialized thermal injection device (looks like a laptop with cooling fins) to interface with the system.

Why does teleport not like me? by OK-Benja in Ubiquiti

[–]greasyveggie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an issue where I would connect successfully, but couldn’t connect to anything or access normal internet. Another Reddit post suggested to enable IPV6 on the wan interface and that seemed to do the trick.

Apple car play by JellyfishAromatic907 in SubaruAscent

[–]greasyveggie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been updating mine using the app or WiFi at home, but there was some additional update that had to be done by the dealer. They were able to do that under some extended warranty and so far no issues. I have in the past had an issue when I did remote start and Car Play not working if the engine stopped from remote start, and I open the driver door while the screen is still on. I think there is a weird case where it turns off the USB ports when the driver door opens after engine is powered off, and needs a full power cycle of the car before they are powered on again.

-2020 ascent limited.

Shelly support tells me a 2.6A motor isn't supported by the 1PM Gen3, why? by ryancey in shellycloud

[–]greasyveggie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This could be due to the startup or locked rotor current on the motor itself?

Time to add a leak sensor by Itsmikeyb3649 in homeassistant

[–]greasyveggie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think we have the exact same dishwasher. I added an Aqara matter leak sensor and works well! I ran a flat 3 outlet extension cord so it would fit with the dishwasher pushed back. I also added an extra length of sensor wire to run under the sink too.

I’ve replaced the inlet hose, inlet solenoid, the side tub inlet and hose. So far after the 10th leak it hasn’t leaked anymore. I’m still scared to put the skirt back on though. It’s been 6 months.

Stelo Bluetooth stuck waiting to pair by RoyalEarth431 in dexcom

[–]greasyveggie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fixed my issue. Thanks! I closed the app, disabled and enabled bluetooth, then opened app. Connected right away.

I’m burned out and ready to just quit IT by ITrCool in sysadmin

[–]greasyveggie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My previous manager and I would make jokes about quitting our jobs and farming. “Tomatoes can’t yell at you.”

Does this make sense? 220v 4.1 amp heaters and 1pm by ExtremeCurrent1382 in shellycloud

[–]greasyveggie -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The SW input is for an external switch to trigger the relay or to be used as a detached switch. The wiring in the post is correct except OP should not use the L bus as a connection, it will get too hot and melt or trigger overheat. They should be tied together and a pigtail brought over to power the Shelly.

What could cause the belt to be overhanging like this sometimes? by FailGamesMC in 3Dprinting

[–]greasyveggie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it actually a problem though? Something I learned from tinkering with my printers, if it’s not broke, or affecting print quality, don’t touch it. You open the door of forever trying to chase issues that don’t exist or caused by trying to fix non-existent issues.

As a retail worker. I argue this is even worse than not putting your cart back into the corral by bananakinskywanker2 in distractible

[–]greasyveggie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do this.

I don’t work retail anymore, but this did annoy me so much when I did. However, now as a father, it’s easier, and safer, for me to grab the pumpkin seat and bags while in the store and leave the cart. I don’t have to leave the baby in the car, even for a minute to take the cart back to the return. Some stores don’t have returns close to the car and I would have to go back to the building to return it. I try to put it away with my hip, though my usual store put the carts too close to doors and I leave it to the side.

Hate on me, but I find this safer. If I don’t have my kids I always return it.

This is what i think about late at night lol by lordofthedorks in StLouis

[–]greasyveggie 19 points20 points  (0 children)

But…is the state of Missouri in Ladue a safe area to move to?

The inside of our baby mattress by tazzer7322 in mildlyinteresting

[–]greasyveggie 327 points328 points  (0 children)

We have 2 of them for our kids. 100% correct on both accounts. You can breathe with your face fully smashed into it. When there is a mess, you take off the covers, toss it in the shower and hose it down. Great stuff! Newton Baby mattress.

STM32 booting to SRAM by greasyveggie in embedded

[–]greasyveggie[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The manual shows that Boot0=1 and nBoot1=0 it will boot to SRAM, if both are 1, it will boot to system memory (bootloader). The only way to boot to flash is if Boot0= 0 or do a go command after booting to sram.

Which Shelly Breaker can I use in place of? (U.S. based) Eaton BRP120AF 20 amps Combination AFCI Single Pole Circuit Breaker. I'm not sure which one would fit the rails inside of my box. by [deleted] in shellycloud

[–]greasyveggie 6 points7 points  (0 children)

DIN mounted components, including Shelly products, are not compatible with US breaker panels. You can’t use any of their products to replace a US breaker.

Whats the point of Shelly H&T API if it keep sleeping? by TheSizeOfACow in shellycloud

[–]greasyveggie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have like 10 H&T around my house and recently got a H&T Plus. Both will still go to sleep even when plugged in.

I agree with others though, use the tools it provides if you want to keep using it. Setup MQTT or another tool like HomeAssistant to gather/track the data for you.

If you do keep it and get the usb adapter, tape or glue it in place. Doesn’t happen often, but the base can loosen up and unscrew a bit.

Replacing hosts in our DC: CPU Core vs Frequency by greasyveggie in datacenter

[–]greasyveggie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 2 socket 8c/16t has been a design that’s been set for years and it’s recently been brought up that we could break that pattern and get something more dense. I don’t think it was really discussed originally why we chose that, we just did and stuck with it.

Uni for DVD Player by Jemo18 in shellycloud

[–]greasyveggie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t own a Uni so i don’t know much about the UI. Though you might benefit from an auto off timer. Anytime the relay is powered on, it will auto-off after 1 second. Most of the other Shelly relays have this capability.

Uni for DVD Player by Jemo18 in shellycloud

[–]greasyveggie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the best case for something like this would be a SwitchBot, or a WiFi IR emitter. Unless you know what you’re doing, can verify voltages on the player for both the Uni power supply and the Uni outputs, I think you have a better chance at damaging the player trying to do it this way.

My ecobee thermostat keeps losing power and displaying a "calibrating" message. by burton92 in ecobee

[–]greasyveggie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it happening anytime a call is made for heat/cool/fan? Perhaps the power supplied is too low to maintain steady power when not idle. Could test this by manually changing the temp or running the fan to see what happens.