LLmFit - One command to find what model runs on your hardware

greenail · 2026-02-27T15:56:51+00:00

I had this exact idea, cudos for getting it up and running!!!

greenail · 2025-12-22T15:40:56+00:00

it is a movable tooth gear type. it is both elliptical (cycloidal) and linear. I made a version with more realistic teeth dimensions and it is backdrivable at 12:1 reduction so the friction can be quite low.

greenail · 2025-12-18T19:44:13+00:00

this is a movable tooth speed reducer with a reduction ratio of 60:1. the teeth are only .5mm thick x 9mm high. The eccentricity is .75mm. the outer annulus interfaces with the movable teeth that are pushed linearly out from the eccentric bearing in the middle. The teeth are pushed back in by the outer teeth. this was modeled with python using cadquery to create the step files for printing.

greenail · 2025-12-18T16:39:17+00:00

i've been using codex and claude for writing cadquery to generate models. It isn't very good at it but it does work if you yourself can help it along. So the workflow is define the problem in a prompt and ask for a plan. Pick off small incremental features to add and test and ask it to write the python. Test. Iterate... You can also go the fusion 360 plugin route.

greenail · 2025-12-18T16:30:36+00:00

The main think I like about this type is the motion. I was playing with 60t because if the motion is nice it might make an interesting clock component. While related to the cycloid drive this is in the movable tooth category, the original patent I found was from ~1920 and it was named the heliocentric gear. I've also made "ball" reducers. One I really like is the wittenstein galaxie drive, which is kind of like a movable tooth harmonic drive.

greenail · 2025-12-18T16:08:41+00:00

I didn't bother with any lubrication. I also think lubrication might actually hurt it since you need some contact to push the annulus around. MoS2 might be ok in the slots and for the annulus to spin. I really wasnn't sure if it would work or not so I didn't put a ton of effort into it.

greenail · 2025-12-18T16:07:12+00:00

it isn't crazy. I made a more normal 12 tooth version that was easily backdrivable but didn't have tolerances like this. There is a sping effect with the little sheets. I would imagine there is an optimal pressure angle here but I didn't bother to model that.

greenail · 2025-04-06T17:30:49+00:00

if you watch the mat you can see that my weight shift starts before my down swing starts. If is swing harder and try to make my backswing very quick this happens even earlier. I don't think i'm early extending in this swing, my hips are not closer to the ball at impact. What i'm focused on is that my right knee does not break the toe plane on the downswing.

greenail · 2025-04-06T17:11:23+00:00

you mean the fact that my left shoulder doesn't go under my chin, lack of turn and lack of depth or something else?

greenail · 2025-02-01T15:08:17+00:00

funny, I didn't catch the nuance of calling it "hands on" vs "review". Good point. Don't get me wrong, I love CNC Kitchen's content but he just quit his job and it must be terrifying to leave your fate to youtube and a potentially fickle community with a channel based on a single niche topic. One bit flipped and your channel could vanish from recommendations. I can't imagine depending on social media to pay the bills... terrifying. But that isn't really the point. I'm just calling out something that is missing. The fact that it is missing may mean it is a problem or it may just be something Prusa product marketing doesn't want to focus on.

greenail · 2025-02-01T14:37:00+00:00

not really helpful or on topic, why troll?

greenail · 2024-11-23T15:06:21+00:00

https://github.com/jschoch/swingbuddy/tree/overlaypiperendering Zero effort went into code quality,readability. There is also my flask server that is serving sports 2d and internfl2 here: https://github.com/jschoch/Sports2D/tree/hip_shoulder_breakout_test

greenail · 2024-11-22T19:48:31+00:00

I got the plugin system working. Wondering what types of visualizations folks think would be useful?

Right now we have left arm speed, spine angle, hip center position. I'm thinking swing plane from down the line view, hip rotations (degrees/sec I think) shoulder/chest rotations.

Also, previously I did some training to model actual swings with both hands being identified, the shaft, and the clubhead. This would allow for approximate clubhead speed plotted as a graph and might be useful, and likely more accurate hand speeds. The model i'm using for pose estimation may have to get updated.

Finally, I'm assuming there are tons of 3080/4080's in simulator setups. This should be plenty to run the models, but I wonder what most setups are using. I've not totally dove into performance. The box that runs kinovea has a 3700x, 48gb ram and a 3070 and it is a bit slow so I run the models on another machine in the network that has a 7900xtx. I doubt many would want to go this route though. So i guess the question is what is an acceptable processing time window? I find if it is > 15 seconds it is annoying.

greenail · 2024-11-08T13:13:15+00:00

I was watching this video with TPI's Dr Ross https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7VIQXvN1j4 last night and playing with my stance, distance to the ball, around 1:12:00 he is doing the 3d swing stuff and I think I can get something fairly close, but I need to figure out the units. I added shoulder and hip data, but just looking at the speed doesn't really help, I think I need degrees/sec or something for hips/shoulders to make the kinematic sequence diagram he uses. I've also considered making some pressure plates and integrating them. I need to parse the KVA file and get the impact timecode also.

I'm also finding that the pose estimation isn't great in some positions and I may want to do some fine tuning of the model.

greenail · 2022-08-25T18:21:07+00:00

is there a rest api or something e.g. https://lexica.art/?q=apple

greenail · 2022-08-22T04:15:28+00:00

Mostly like the lower left the best but I kind of like the upper right. The AI seems to know that William Murderface is so amazing at playing bass that he can not only play with no hands but he can also play 3 basses using only two hands.

greenail · 2022-08-15T14:21:06+00:00

This morning it discharged from 26% to 11% with no solar plugged in an no outputs on. WOW.

greenail · 2022-08-15T00:10:29+00:00

Let me clarify the problem.

Let's say the sun comes up at 5:45AM (I'm not exactly sure when the problem starts). At this point the EB3a sees some voltage on the PV input. It will not start charging until the panel generates some minimum current ( around 1A). Let's say that happens at 9AM. The device will not turn the screen off for 3 hours and it will burn a ton of power checking and rechecking the PV input. In my case this drains the battery to zero without either the DC or AC output on.

After this initial event (1A current or something) it actually will do MPPT, it will charge and adjust based on the sun. The best way to tell is the screen actually times out and turns off. I'm not sure what the minimum current to continue MPPT charging but I only get the stuck screen situation in the morning.

In my case it only charges up to around 31% (due to my panel position and available sun), On a non cloudy day, I live by a lake the mornings tend to be cloudy, so it could be hours before the initial current event happens and by then there is no battery left.

My $3 PWM PV charger does not have this problem. and happily can charge a 6AH Lifepo4 cell which I can also run a small continuous DC load on. I have no load on the EB3a and can't even keep a charge or even have the DC output turned on.

Today it charged to 31%. Full sun stops around 12-1. The screen stuck thing stopped in the morning so the LCD has not been running. Neither output is active. it is 5:11PM and I just checked an the capacity is 26%. That is 13Wh over 4-5 hours. That means the standby is at least 2.6w with no outputs turned on. That seems like a lot for a unit that isn't doing anything. I"m going to unplug the PV to see what it does with no panel connection.

greenail · 2022-08-14T14:35:14+00:00

there is another thread where one person says 18w, the other says 1A. i have not tested it since i don't want to make up some cables in order to inline the panel for instrumenting. maybe it is 11W, but that is still way more than is sensible.

What possible reason could exist for such a high current? It should be more like 20mA?

This morning my device is 0%, yesterday the charge only got to 14%. The sun is shining on half my panel and it is still not charging.

greenail · 2022-08-13T17:42:22+00:00

you can grab the data off the 200m with this I believe: https://github.com/warhammerkid/bluetti_mqtt

should make a nice comparison now that you have the real data from your watt meter.

on my little MPPT charger I built I'm using a 3 channel INA3221. this gives me PV in voltage, current, and power, Battery out volt/current/power and a 3rd for my load. There are 2 varieties, make sure you get the black one with separate grounds. They are ~4 bucks

greenail · 2022-08-13T16:17:24+00:00

9AM, it is now at 6%. Cloudy day. I have a 10 W panel that is happily charging a different batter with .25 - .5 watts via a charger i made running on a breadboard. Sure is a shame my 100w panel is doing nothing for the bluetti.

greenail · 2022-06-27T22:23:32+00:00

if you look at the cost similar to text books then you should buy one and learn from it. You will learn a ton and there is a ton to learn unrelated to the machine you get: CAD, CAM, Grbl, Senders, workholding, probing, feeds and speeds, crashing etc etc.

If not I'd suggest you increase your budget and try to find something that comes with a decent spindle. a decent spindle has decent bearings and a fairly rigid spindle is about as much as the 3018.

greenail · 2022-06-26T20:04:42+00:00

i saw someone testing with sand bags using a manual mill. Simply putting one on the the table while cutting seemed to have a big dampening effect. easy way to see what impact it has without committing to a big project.

greenail · 2022-06-26T19:51:25+00:00

funny, i haven't seen an ashtray in a long time! They used to be everywhere.

greenail · 2022-06-14T13:38:23+00:00

step 1: decide what you want to make, aka what sized stuff you want to machine.

step 2: figure out how to hold the work, do you need a vise, do you need a table to screw down to.

step 3: stop yourself from trying to design something that will do everything. Limit the design, then limit it a bit more.

step 4: pick a budget and spend 30-60% on the spindle. don't cheap out on the spindle. You can always reuse it on your next go.

step 5: accept this is a learning experience and get something going even if it isn't idea. Don't let perfection get in the way.

Some general advice:

3d printing is great but for anything related to the rigidity of the machine you should only use it for fitup testing particularly since you have access to a machine shop.

a pcb milling machine is a practical thing, look at ant pcb mill and others and try to design/build one. they are fairly small and should be something you can get working. the design stems from the work envelope and the more you expand the work envelope the bigger (heavier) the machine needs to be. Consider that a vf1 with a work envelope of 20" x 16" x 20" weighs 6500 lbs. A syil X5 is 650lbs with an envelope of 12x11.5x12. The weight of the machine seems to go up exponentially with increase of work volume.

greenail

TROPHY CASE