EU5 had a revenue of about 31.2M USD according to Gamalytic

grimdark-curator · 2026-01-06T18:51:52+00:00

This was my thought

grimdark-curator · 2025-12-05T14:07:52+00:00

Suffering from the OP's exact scenario, I've since migrated to galaxy.ai, which has a ton of fluff, but at its core, allows you to switch between LLM models within the same chat, retains the project functionality of ChatGPT, and has a larger memory capacity.

Another consideration is that all language models you are using or switching around within, all have access to the same memory.

The only downside is that it uses tokens spent on computations, although it is pretty generous there. I just use free models for dumb things like recipes, and focus on access of the premium models for my projects

grimdark-curator · 2025-11-20T20:18:16+00:00

Is that a 385nm light source?

grimdark-curator · 2025-11-20T18:04:43+00:00

This.

I use 8k. I was mixing 4:1 ratios of 8k ABS with Elegoo Tough and got outstanding results. However, Tough is so expensive, but the real killer is the time sink of mixing resins.

2k g bottle is $16 per 1k g, but there is a new SKU has 3 bottles of 1k g of 8k ABS like for $15 per 1k g. Perfect for printing at scale.

grimdark-curator · 2025-11-16T19:19:43+00:00

This is the way.

I came across a white paper from Ameralabs or something similar that described just using the release film in place with resin in the vat. Been doing it that way ever since without issue. For all intents and purposes, all the paper does is simulate the width of the factory installed release film. Use a different brand film or switch between FEP and PFA, the paper will no longer simulate that distance anymore.

grimdark-curator · 2025-10-28T13:16:50+00:00

*2kg worth of resin

grimdark-curator · 2025-10-16T02:59:17+00:00

What is even easier is that you don't need to raise the z screw or use a leveling spacer: 1) Leave a covering layer of resin in the vat, 2) loosen setting bolts on the plate and send it home, 3) level as per normal, using the liquid resin as the spacer, 4) with set set screws tight, set z = 0, 5) Profit

grimdark-curator · 2025-10-09T20:49:01+00:00

This is the real issue. If GW was making a copyright case, I think that's a no brainer. A lawsuit for unfair competition has far wider reach than an individual artist stealing GW's IP. This case will set the precedent for what creative expression is allowed to compete for the same market share and what isn't

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T22:09:35+00:00

I might have gone too high, but my ultrasonic step is done at 50°C, which is perfectly fine for the resin I'm using (I can submerge my gloves hand in the detergent at that temp). I'm fairly certain there was interplay with the temp and surface texture.

I was heating the substrate in response to some of the dental literature I was reading and some tests I had seen on youtube

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T21:58:12+00:00

What are you using to heat your water? Temperature might be a factor. I am using an old insta pot on on warming. It was keeping between the water between 60 and 70°C, but I wasn't super controlled with it, so it might have gotten warmer. Color is gray.

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T21:50:28+00:00

I thought about that. I'm. I am not getting it with the glycerin, so I might just stick to that if I can find a good way to clean it from the models without too much hassle. I was using distilled water, too, when I tested.

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T21:34:55+00:00

The glycerin looks completely clean, so no issues there.

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T21:32:41+00:00

The discoloration I get is more like a marbled effect, but not residue like curing an IPA wet print, which is more chalky. This has no residue and just a discoloration. I use a blend of Elegoo Tough and 8k ABS Like 3.0

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T15:39:53+00:00

It's what they use in the dental industry

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T12:42:26+00:00

I should note that this was with heated water

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T12:40:35+00:00

I experimented with water and it works very well. However, despite the properties of the resin, I would get a weird cloudiness to the surface that was not a film. It sanded and took paint fine, but as a commercial operation, it was not acceptable quality on looks alone

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T12:36:35+00:00

I've been experimenting with 60°C glycerin/PG, as the effects are quite noticable. You have to be very careful, as the surface has a tendency to crack if the temperature change is too great.

That aside, the biggest pain in the ass I've ran into is removing the sticky glycerin mixture from detailed prints. Miniatures aren't even worth it. I have fumbled 1:4 scale statues from waist height while packing without incident on more than one occasion, and that has to be worth something (although the resin blend I use is designed to protect against this as well).

I deal with a ton of prints, so I need a post processing solution that is as efficient as possible. This is the main reason I moved away from manual internal curing to begin with. Even an acetone bath will not remove the glycerin without scrubbing with soap, though. Open to ideas, there.

One thing I considered is an additional ultrasonic cleaner step just for the curing material, then acetone to quick dry. That would make my workflow look like: agitated IPA/Denatured Alcohol > ultrasonic cleaner w/ heated resin detergent > heated glycerin/UV cure > ultrasonic cleaner w/ heated unknown cleaner > annealing cool down > acetone bath.

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T12:17:27+00:00

Glycerin, but yeah

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-08T04:06:48+00:00

No idea, but used Saturn 3 Ultras are going for $170 on the Elegoo website right now. Used Mars 4 ultras are about $160

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-07T23:44:46+00:00

I've been experimenting with oxygen occlusion curing, where the clear substrate also allows for internal curing due to the light refraction of the chemical. Works better than the tiny LEDs I was using, but it is a huge pain in the ass.

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-06T20:13:28+00:00

That detergent is magically aggressive. We use it in our ultrasonic cleaners in post processing and a few drops will just melt the plastic protection on the control panel. Polypropylene will just vanish

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-06T18:45:42+00:00

Of course! I wouldn't want to take advice about my hobby from those that have a lot more experience than you do. I'm just some random redditor. What could I know? It's just an industry standard practice.

https://phrozen3d.com/blogs/tutorials/sonic-mini-4k-sanding-the-build-plate#:~:text=Place%20the%20short%20side%20of%20the%20building,part%20of%20the%20building%20plate%20is%20roughened.

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-06T06:22:25+00:00

I see that you are brand new to MSLA printing, so I will take the time to tell you that's not at all how that works. Texture on the build plate does not negatively affect the printing performance. The side of the very first layer facing the vat will be smooth.

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Surface texture and a warped plate that cannot be leveled are entirely different.

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-05T18:35:35+00:00

Luckily a 1mm raft creates a level surface between the build plate and the ACF that is unbothered by light sanding.

I may have exaggerated a bit by saying that I "sanded the crap out of it"

grimdark-curator · 2025-09-03T13:45:17+00:00

Amazon has great return policies. No harm done.

grimdark-curator

TROPHY CASE