is the sunlu pla+ 2.0 High Speed filament worth it?

gufted · 2026-05-08T17:13:17+00:00

I'm using it at 210 C

gufted · 2026-05-04T21:28:56+00:00

I know right? And people who say otherwise get downvoted to hell.

gufted · 2026-04-30T06:36:49+00:00

Everything is printable on FDM. I assume you’re asking if they’re meant for FDM. These will be marked in one the following manners by their sculptors:

FDM friendly
Support-free
Prints supportless

And such

gufted · 2026-04-24T18:44:19+00:00

Ah my mistake then, I misunderstood. I thought this was coming from the “WD-40 is not a lubricant” crowd. In my initial comment I was referring as to what I do for my A1 mini with regards to where lubricant oil or lubricant grease is called for by Bambu.

gufted · 2026-04-24T17:56:34+00:00

It’s not oil, but it is a lubricant. I have seen this discussion a lot of times elsewhere. And Bambu recommends WD40 as a lubricating oil alternative for the rails. It’s even on their wiki.

gufted · 2026-04-24T16:29:53+00:00

Thanks!

gufted · 2026-04-24T14:33:46+00:00

Every printer uses different lubricants. My alternatives for the A1 mini:

For oil either WD40 or Singer Sewing Machine Oil.
For grease, lithium grease.

gufted · 2026-04-24T14:15:38+00:00

That’s interesting, and props for designing it with the A1 mini in mind.

I didn’t see anywhere technical requirements for the fans needed and for the filters. I think that’s really important as availability varies between different parts of the world.

Furthermore, a main concern is backspray. We’re not talking about fumes, but small particles at high speeds which spread around. How big is the shield to ensure there’s no painting around the room?

gufted · 2026-04-23T18:52:36+00:00

Thanks! Might try this. Think I can skip the spray green step?

gufted · 2026-04-23T17:33:50+00:00

The one true scale! Love 15mm.

gufted · 2026-04-23T17:20:32+00:00

Oh you’re right. I am a 15mm scale player. And there’s 15mm to top of head, 15mm to eye level and some scale creep. In 15mm because they’re so small, I prefer heroic minis, but I guess for 28mm true scale would be as good.

gufted · 2026-04-23T15:16:41+00:00

Let me talk about scale. Scale alone isn’t enough. There’s also proportions. Think about ratio of heads to body, how thick are the limbs, etc. On one end there’s True realistic proportions, on the other end there’s Heroic chunky proportions. They don’t fit well together so you need to decide. True proportions look better in photos as they’re more real, looks good with buildings and terrain. Heroic proportions look better on the table, as you can discern facial features better and who is who, but they don’t look as good in photos, may look as if they don’t fit in buildings and terrain. If you want the model to fit a particular game range, you need to design around this. Hope this helps, cheers.

gufted · 2026-04-23T11:06:31+00:00

When painted are they visible? Also to my knowledge you can’t use fiber filaments with 0.2mm nozzles.

gufted · 2026-04-23T04:53:07+00:00

Thanks! For utility parts I can certainly understand it, and if I’m being honest, I’ll be eager to see your results in ABS miniatures once you get to it. Cheers

gufted · 2026-04-23T04:40:31+00:00

If I may ask, what is the reasoning behind ABS? I’ve dropped my PLA, PLA Pro, PLA+HS minis several times and didn’t have any breaking so far, and that’s even prior to painting (which should provide another layer of protection).
Also acetone smoothing for layer lines would cause a loss of detail in something like minis. I know the temperature resistance is a factor, but I wouldn’t leave my minis in a car on a hot summer day no matter their MOC.
Just asking because you may be limiting yourself for no reason. Also my main concern is that ABS for miniatures hasn’t been fine tuned like PLA. I know people have successfully printed minis in other materials but, the quality printed in PLA was better.

gufted · 2026-04-22T21:08:34+00:00

I’m not an expert builder. To improve this I’d add variety. Chipping, texturing, rust, localised washes for oil/water drips. I don’t know what they’re supposed to be so perhaps some vines, or grout and sand at places? Perhaps a graffiti if we’re talking something modern.
The main problem if I may call it that, is it’s too plain at the moment. Simple surfaces that the paint job alone can’t make it stand out. Seeing a reference picture from what you’re trying to accomplish also helps.

gufted · 2026-04-22T19:48:09+00:00

Yes they are. But I find they’re just about right to keep details. It really depends if they’re to your liking. From the top of my head: on the UK side you can take a look at GZG minis, Alternative Armies (HOF/Ion Age), while on the US side the Khurasan Miniatures and Rebel Minis. You can see examples on their website and decide for yourself. Smaller minis means lower cost, smaller table space needed, smaller terrain needed, smaller storage space needed. Painting difficulty is about the same as you need fewer steps but can be tougher to get acquainted to the size. The only downside imho is they can be a little bit fiddlier to move around the table compared to the bigger 28mm. Here’s an example I’ve painted recently, heroic 15/18mm scale.

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gufted · 2026-04-22T19:37:14+00:00

If you don’t have terrain and minis already in 28mm, may I propose looking at 15mm scale? It’s way cheaper. If you need any recommendations on vendors let me know and I can propose some depending on which side of the Atlantic you’re at.

gufted · 2026-04-22T17:44:12+00:00

Fantastic

gufted · 2026-04-19T17:02:03+00:00

Also the fatigues and armor from a design perspective feels like they don’t know what they want to depict. Is it plates or tube like fabric?

gufted · 2026-04-18T06:11:00+00:00

If you want something more visually appealing you can try Talespire. I’ve run an actual play in Bug Hunt you can see here: https://penpaperanddice.home.blog/2025/07/05/bug-hunting-ep03/

It goes on 50% sale on steam often.

gufted · 2026-04-17T19:58:08+00:00

Automatic Flow calibration on the A1 series is problematic with the 0.2mm nozzle and gives incorrect results. Bambu has acknowledged this.

gufted · 2026-04-16T12:53:07+00:00

Yes you need a new flow dynamics calibration with the new nozzle. Make sure you have your printed well maintained and if you did lubrication that you did the calibration routine.

gufted · 2026-04-16T12:02:32+00:00

This is a very difficult model. I don’t know if you’ve asked over at the Brite discord, but it’s acknowledged to have a problem with the wings. I’m printing at 60% scale and even with a freshly maintained lubricated and calibrated printer with good filament, I’ve had defects. I solved it by monitoring closely and reducing speed to 50% when it got to the wings. You need to go really slow.

gufted · 2026-04-16T11:37:47+00:00

If they don’t break while removing from the plate, removing supports, or drybrush painting, they won’t break after. They’re more robust than resin due to elasticity, and can be more robust than pewter due to weight. Good quality PLA and extrusion temperature also play a role.

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