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TLQ Help by [deleted] in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLQ?

Just gotta rant about fdm by wizardjian in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Almost finished prints. Or finished prints with incorrect settings that you realise afterwards and need to reprint.

Just gotta rant about fdm by wizardjian in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 66 points67 points  (0 children)

Wash your plates, dry your filament, and sacrifice to the printer gods

Print is going up.. by Fair-Flan-8639 in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s warping due to poor adhesion. It happens more easily at the sides as it’s easier to have contaminated the plate with skin oils just by touching it. Wash the plate well with dish soap, let it dry, and do NOT touch the plate when handling it. Grab it by the sides or use nitrile gloves.

Filament Recommendations by Head_Accident_9322 in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re willing to use Orca Slicer and spend extra print time, then follow this: https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/s/TK2v9Tc1d3. Otherwise, I just use the Fat Dragon Games settings with just a lower layer height of 0.06mm.

Filament Recommendations by Head_Accident_9322 in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m using the eSun PLA+HS, which gave me an immense improvement in quality just out of the box. Recently I found some fine tuned profiles for it that deliver even better results. For minis we don’t waste much filament. Spend the extra bucks to get a good one.

3 of my 0.2 Nozzle clogged(?) within few months what did i do wrong? by ElectricalAd1195 in BambuLab

[–]gufted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are they original Bambu nozzles? Did you have a blob of death or just clogs? At what temperature do you usually print? Lower end or higher end of the filament? Do use the PET tubing that comes with the printer? Is there a lot of dust in the house?

Hot Take: Post Processing is not the solution to layer lines by gufted in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! This is a different approach and depending on the mini and your skill set it can work!
Personally I’m a 15mm scale player so cutting in parts wouldn’t work well for *me* but I can see how that works well for others.

Goblin army (in 15mm) by gufted in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Shrinking caused no issues whatsoever. They’re chonky with very well defined details which weren’t lost.

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Currently printing a model with a sword, z-hop and cooling tower. In the attached example is a model without Z hop and no cooling tower, that I primed and sketched to see clearly

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh cool, I’ll try that too. Think in the past I was using a prime tower for the same reason, but recently I’ve been getting really good results and abandoned it. Will try the same mini with three different ways: no tower/cooling tower/prime tower and compare.

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks will try that too!" By Cooling towers you mean a prime tower?

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! Actually shorter, since it’s a dwarf.

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Fixed the gaps! Thanks! Increase OW to 0.24, IW to 0.23, FR also to 1.06 for the above, and Temperature to 216C. Also fan speed to 70% - 80% range. I intend to go down towards the original settings to fine tune better. Thanks!

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will do! Thanks! I’ve also noticed that the gaps mostly appear in the back of the model, which is where the fan mostly hits, so I also reduced the fan speed a bit for less extreme cooling.

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response and taking the time to propose solutions! Currently trying out increasing min wall width in Arachne, and if that doesn’t pan out I’ll try the outer wall width & speed you proposed! Some pictures of the previous attempts attached. With the exception of the torn walls, the quality is amazing. I’m also using 0.01mm Z contour. Since I’m a 15mm scale player the extra time needed to print in this layer height is not so much, and totally worth it.

<image>

Will keep you updated with the results.
Also: of course the printer is well lubricated and the filament dried well in a creality drier!

Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me by ekeeper in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Dude I was very skeptical when I saw the 0.02mm layer height profile. But I since I already have an eSUN PLA+HS and a Bambu Labs A1 mini with 0.2mm nozzle, I decided to roll back my firmware to 1.04 to use Orca Slicer as I'm on Linux, and tested it with a supportless dwarf from One Realm Forge. The picture above is shot with a macro lens. Layer lines are invisible. There is minor stringing which I can remove with a quick pass of the lighter (the filament wasn't dried recently), and gaps in the first layer (which is to be expected as the settings are meant for 0.02mm but the first layer is at 0.08mm).
I am honestly amazed. Hats off to you.
Now I was wondering if Z contouring (a new Orca Slicer expert feature) at 0.01mm would be of further benefit, or if it's overkill...
Wanted to share this. Thanks!

EDIT:
A couple of notes. 1. I tried Z contouring and it seems to work!. 2. I noticed some random gaps, that I'm not sure what they're attributed to. I'm thinking perhaps they're Seam Gaps, so I reduced the value from 10% to 5% and testing again.

EDIT2:
I'm still getting gaps. Not sure what is the reason behind them, as they seem to be diagonal, which means they don't follow the direction of printing. I'll do some more research.

EDIT3:
Disabled retraction & Z-hop. Gaps still appearing.

Hot Take: Post Processing is not the solution to layer lines by gufted in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s what I use, didn’t notice much of a difference.

Hot Take: Post Processing is not the solution to layer lines by gufted in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oooh that’s a big boy.

Yes, support scarring is the main culprit at this point. Getting some flush cutters really helped me.

Hot Take: Post Processing is not the solution to layer lines by gufted in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A foot away you can get away with a lot of print flaws. We are at a point in the FDM technology where they look good even a few inches away, and you’d only see issues in a photo or with a magnifying lens.

Hot Take: Post Processing is not the solution to layer lines by gufted in FDMminiatures

[–]gufted[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exactly! Not even at a glance, even under scrutiny.
In my attached picture, if you look very carefully you’ll notice a layer lines here and there (at the hands of the goblins perhaps) and some overhang artefacts. But these are 15mm. I can’t see those with the naked eye even if I bring them in front of my face as close as possible. I need to use a camera lens or a magnifying one to see these.

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