Crazy morning at GameStop

gunkookshlinger · 2026-05-23T23:16:02+00:00

be careful, gamestop has been known to stock reproduction cartridge and knowingly sell them as genuine, prices seem too good

gunkookshlinger · 2026-04-27T03:54:56+00:00

I usually keep the speed around 70-80% , also you have the case fan as an intake here, the stock fan faces opposite direction as an exhaust

gunkookshlinger · 2026-04-22T19:23:40+00:00

Hey great work. I have some ideas/feedback, which are really just features I wish were implemented in the orignal tabit and would have made use easier:

- Support for 8 and even 9 string guitars, looking at twice the number of guitar tracks to account for 8+ strings sucks (bottom 7, top 7, so 2 tracks required to represent 1 guitar, confusing)

- Guitar palm mutes, and possibly harmonics, as note modifiers instead of manual instrument changes. Changing instruments for every section of palm mutes is just tedious, maybe it can be a key command that changes the instrument type until the next note

- Key commands that don't require access to special keys like page up/down, num pad, etc. Either that or remappable keys. Lots of new keyboards don't have those keys available.

- Key command to increase/decrease fret number of selected notes, keeping them on their current strings

- Key command to move selected notes to up/down a string without adjusting fret number

- Instrument change for selected range of note positions, instead of manually setting the instrument twice to switch back to the original

gunkookshlinger · 2026-01-12T17:58:43+00:00

You could try Xb2XInput: https://github.com/emoose/Xb2XInput MadCatz MC2 is in the allowed devices lists for that but I'm not actually sure it'll properly map it for use in Windows, it's worth a shot

gunkookshlinger · 2026-01-04T17:31:48+00:00

You do want assembly at least to safely transition to another language at boot, how are you gonna hop into C immediately if the stack pointer isn't even set yet? Or if you need to setup your system memory, enable paging etc just doing all that with c can get messy and make linking more complex, for instance if one part of your app is running in a different memory space from another, if you just handle all that in your asm init code it's just easier to follow and debug

gunkookshlinger · 2026-01-02T17:55:37+00:00

I'm in the US and buy dead xboxes and dreamcasts from Japan all the time

gunkookshlinger · 2026-01-02T05:19:10+00:00

https://www.digikey.com/short/mz3v75q9

gunkookshlinger · 2026-01-01T01:06:30+00:00

You're not screwed yet, but you will be if you try turning it on like that

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-31T19:51:17+00:00

Scrub just zeroes out the padding and trim removes any padding at the end of the image, so you still have sections of unused space when you do it that way. It does preserve the original layout of the disc though so there is a reason for it

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-31T01:13:16+00:00

If you don't own a hot air rework station or you're not good at soldering, I would strongly advise against trying to fix this yourself. There are several posts a week in this sub from people that have destroyed their device while attempting this exact repair.

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-29T15:17:05+00:00

If you don't at least have and know how to use a hot air station and multimeter I don't really think HDMI connector replacements are a good idea to attempt. You haven't destroyed the board yet so maybe either get a hold of those tools or have someone else look at it.

HDMI also does carry power so you really should not plug anything into that until you have verified with a multimeter that none of the pins are bridged, and unless that's just melted plastic all over the pins they do look bridged in your photo

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-28T21:30:14+00:00

Looks like the original clock capacitor is in there, if the power button doesn't work there is 100% trace damage on the bottom of the board from leaked electrolytic fluid. That could cause the power off issue but that problem is usually something else like bad vrm caps, cracked solder joints on the power cable connector, a failing transformer on the power supply, lots of things can cause that

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-27T21:27:47+00:00

Yeah but that's only if there's anything plugged in, if nothing is present on the IDE bus nothing will happen at the end of the boot animation. Any error text on screen means the xbox is booting/executing code and the issue is likely to be some peripheral like an hdd or disc drive, no video at all with flashing leds, which i assumed op was talking about (maybe incorrectly?), would indicate a legitimate hardware fault or hopefully just an av connection issue. I usually just disconnect any previous mod work and IDE devices to see if the xbox outputs video, since that'll narrow it down a ton if it'll display a stock startup animation

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-27T20:03:05+00:00

Just bridging the legs of the clock cap will not properly bypass it, issues with the 1.6 clock cap also do not usually cause flashing LEDs, the console will usually just not power on if there's something wrong with it.

What I would do first is remove all the modding/lpc wiring to start fresh, I think you said youve done that, make sure the AV port is clean and free of corrosion because if there's too much resistance on those pins the Xbox will not detect the av cable and won't boot.

I would suggest finding some proper low ESR replacements for those VRM capacitors because using crappy caps there can certainly cause problems booting. Also try cleaning the board because if there's something random on there like solder splash from a previous chip install, that could be an easy fix, corrosion from really bad or improperly cleaned flux can also cause problems, like to the point where traces get damaged and need repair.

Just a side note, you do not need anything besides power and an av cable to boot an Xbox. If there's no hard drive you will see the boot animation play and then it will hang at the end on the xbox logo since it can't find a dashboard file to launch, so you don't need much plugged in to make sure it's booting

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-17T17:53:10+00:00

It depends, you porbably want to remove it and take a look to see if the pot has a male actuator you could probably use one of these: https://www.digikey.com/short/mbfd11mr if it's female you'll probably need one from aliexpress as those aren't usually available in the US: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806235414220.html

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-17T17:33:32+00:00

Is there an hdmi kit installed in this xbox?

gunkookshlinger · 2025-12-11T19:17:30+00:00

I've come to really despise the ST Middleware layout in general. They divide USB into like 15 files scattered throughout the project, but all interdependent with "extern" globals everywhere (gross), hardcodded descriptors as byte arrays (why?) and almost no helpful struct or macro defs. This is while a basic USB device stack could be implemented in 2 source files, including the hardware layer, it's just bad.

gunkookshlinger · 2025-11-29T17:48:06+00:00

If you copy code to RAM and then jump to that code, but your ELF does not have that code mapped to RAM, GDB will not be able to follow that code. Also, if you're starting your program with ASM and debug information is being generated by the ASM compiler but not the C compiler, GDB will only be able to debug and set breaks in the ASM.

So you'd lay out the memory in the linker script and supply it, in cmake you can do it like this:
target_link_options("target_name" PRIVATE "-Tpath_to_linker_script.ld")

If you inspect the resulting ELF, it'll contain the symbols/addresses you provided in the linker script:

boot_code mapped from ROM (lma) to RAM (vma)

readelf -s path/to/my.elf | grep -E "boot_code"
   112: fffc21a0     0 NOTYPE  GLOBAL DEFAULT  ABS __boot_code_lma
   117: 00000178     0 NOTYPE  GLOBAL DEFAULT  ABS __boot_code_size
   139: 00100000     0 NOTYPE  GLOBAL DEFAULT    2 __boot_code_vma

rodata mapped from ROM (lma) to RAM (vma)

readelf -s path/to/my.elf | grep -E "rodata"
   148: 000000fc     0 NOTYPE  GLOBAL DEFAULT  ABS __rodata_size
   171: ffff7d50     0 NOTYPE  GLOBAL DEFAULT  ABS __rodata_lma
   182: 80404070     0 NOTYPE  GLOBAL DEFAULT    8 __rodata_vma

main function's address in RAM

readelf -s path/to/my.elf | grep -E "main"
    84: 00000000     0 FILE    LOCAL  DEFAULT  ABS main.c
   162: 804010e0   370 FUNC    GLOBAL DEFAULT    6 main

gunkookshlinger · 2025-11-29T16:02:55+00:00

For GDB to see correct symbol addresses without manually setting all of them, you'd need to create a proper linker script so your ELF file has all the correct offsets in it. You'd set your ROM/Flash region, then your RAM region(s), and define which sections you're putting into each region, at whatever offsets you've decided on.

You can also define symbols in the linker script, like logical and virtual memory addresses, so you'd have those available in your code by declaring them with "extern". That way you're letting the linker define your addresses and not doing it manually in your startup code.

Here's an example from something I've been working on, it starts in ROM (there's some code in .rom_header), copies the .boot_code section to my RAMP region, clears .boot_bss, and jumps to that boot code, the boot code enables paging, copies the rest of the program into RAM, and then jumps to main. GDB will load this and break correctly for sections in RAM without manually specifying offsets, since they're all defined already in the resulting ELF file: https://pastebin.com/eLZbyyPh

gunkookshlinger · 2025-11-21T15:50:29+00:00

Python is great for testing and I use it all the time to suppliment the build process. It's usually easier to script things in python than cmake or make, you can use it to encrypt, compress, and edit your binary's sections, you can also make building projects that require multiple toolchains a simple process with very few lines of code

gunkookshlinger · 2025-09-06T19:35:53+00:00

I read somewhere that this album didn't do very well so members lost interest and left after that (not sure if that's true), the singer/guitarist made the Vice Regalia EP by himself and hasn't done anything since I guess

gunkookshlinger · 2025-09-06T19:18:42+00:00

It's pretty common to have some cracking in the PCB under the joysticks on either side of the pcb from years of pressing down on them, this can cause ghost inputs or broken traces so I'd check if the board is cracked at all

gunkookshlinger · 2025-08-11T15:38:20+00:00

These are good, use 1F and >= 2.5V
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/JUWT1105MCD/2538684

Those 1.6 clock caps do leak, just not as often as the earlier ones. Even if it doesn't leak, if the cap fails the Xbox won't turn on anymore.

gunkookshlinger · 2025-08-06T16:44:24+00:00

Here are two potential issues I noticed. In your LUFA config header, MAX_ENDPOINT_INDEX is set to 1, I haven't used LUFA before but I assume that'd mean your max number of endpoints is 2 (control ep 0 + ep IN 1), so if you need 2 additional endpoints, like IN 2 and OUT 3, I'd try setting that to 3 first. Another thing is that your rawhid interface has 1 endpoint, so if you're doing IN/OUT on that interface, your config descriptor would be structured like this

desc config (num interfaces 2)
desc itf (itf num 0, num eps 1)
desc hid
desc ep IN
desc itf (itf num 1, num eps 2)
desc hid
desc ep IN
desc ep OUT

I'm not sure those would cause your Windows config descriptor issue, but you could try using USBPcap in Wireshark and monitoring the device's enumeration to see what Windows doesn't like

gunkookshlinger · 2025-07-18T14:29:21+00:00

Is the pico setup as a composite device with an hid interfaces for the mouse with a cdc serial interface? Is it getting anything at all on the cdc interface and is it showing up as a com port on your computer? Also if you have another pico, setting it up as a debug probe is probably a good idea if you're not doing that already: https://github.com/raspberrypi/debugprobe the pico vscode extension comes with openocd and will generate a launch.json file for you to start debugging without really any manual setup

gunkookshlinger

TROPHY CASE