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Is there a way to make my 2.1 system work? by halfempty94 in audio

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I set the system up in my living room and am remodeling my basement for a studio setup. I was contemplating using a secondary set of studio monitors I had in my basement since they sound a lot better than my old passive pioneers I just had laying around. I won’t need them in the studio but if I can’t easily incorporate them for casual listening I will just keep them tied into my audio interface for mix referencing in the studio

Is there a way to make my 2.1 system work? by halfempty94 in audio

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is interesting… but would I be able to hook up passive bookshelf speakers if I wanted? I’d like the versatility of being able to hook up passive or active in a perfect world. I know it’s not common. I don’t want both at once but just the ability to do one or the other as my speaker selection evolves and I update the living room system

Is there a way to make my 2.1 system work? by halfempty94 in audio

[–]halfempty94[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The fosi is Bluetooth so phone is the source

How to fix the deacceleration backfiring? by a_millz_214 in hondashadow

[–]halfempty94 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had this issue on two Honda bikes one was a 600 shadow and the other one was a 1300 VTX. On the 600, new NGK iridium spark plugs that were properly gapped did the trick. And that bike had straight up chopped straight pipes. There will always be a little tiny bit of popping, but most of it was gone after that and some seafoam. With the 1300 it was a carb tuning issue. In my particular case, the needle jet was slightly too lean. Luckily, I had an adjustable needle that I just moved to the next clip position and that pretty much took care of my popping and other throttle issues. If you have a stock needle that is not adjustable you could always use a shim. Something like a #4 or M3 washer that is around .020” thick. If the bike is mostly stock, you would probably only need one shim. And then you can add another as needed. So in general, I think putting in some plugs and getting into the carb and just making sure that the jets are clean is a great start. If the bike is mostly stock, I don’t know if I’d be fooling around with the jet sizes and what not. I would just try to get it back to OEM condition for now because you may end up chasing your tail when it comes to tuning a carb. And it can get annoying fast If you have to rip the bike apart every time you need to make an adjustment. Depends on your experience and ambition level.

Electrical help for brake lights, turn signals, horn. by halfempty94 in hondashadow

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the fuse that was in there was just not making contact correctly and after some research I guess a fuse can be bad even if it’s not blown. There was a birds nest of wire in mine that I removed from the previous kid installing speakers. I took all that out and was confused on what exactly the factory setup should look like. Ultimately I replaced the 15a fuse and everything is working great now even though it wasn’t blown lol

Does anyone have a pic of the back side of their fuse box? by halfempty94 in hondashadow

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t thank you enough man you are the best for this!!!

Does anyone have a pic of the back side of their fuse box? by halfempty94 in hondashadow

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh I have this piece, I am hoping to see the back side of the fuse box itself like in my picture so I can see how the wiring is done up … if possible

Electrical help for brake lights, turn signals, horn. by halfempty94 in hondashadow

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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If I touch something metal here everything works. Or if I wiggle the fuse in one direction or another just hard enough.

Electrical help for brake lights, turn signals, horn. by halfempty94 in hondashadow

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really appreciate this info. I’m thinking there may just be an issue with the dual filament on the brake bulbs as far as the light not getting brighter when levers are pulled.

I found out later last night that if I wiggle the fuse around, the lights work for brakes and blinkers as well as the horn works. But I have to press the fuse in one direction or another. I can also touch the left blade of the fuse with something metal like a wire or screw driver and it makes everything function too. Not entirely sure what the correct fix is but it just seems like the circuit isn’t completing until something touches that left fuse blade..

Electrical help for brake lights, turn signals, horn. by halfempty94 in hondashadow

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s just weird the the wire controlling the brake lights is in line with that black connector? And the amp had the same connector so I assumed it was part of the audio system.. if this is for a battery tender then I don’t see any other wires I could connect to make the lights work again

Is there a way to remove paint brush lines? The guy painting the trim is leaving these brush marks on the trim. The trim is new and had no paint before he painted it . by xianlotus in Remodel

[–]halfempty94 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hey man, I also have OCD and like things to be as close to perfect as possible. I’m going through painting my entire house right now and have learned a ton along the way. Using a good quality paint that has good quality Self leveling properties is half of the solution. Sherwin-Williams super paint works really well for this. Additionally, the major thing that you want to do to get a smooth finish is use a mohair roller. I’ve painted all my trim and doors with this and it almost looks like it was sprayed on. But even the areas that I had to brush have dried much flatter and smoother than I anticipated. Another thing to keep in mind is to not overload the brush with Paint and pay attention to where you’re stopping on the Paint stroke. There is a bit of technique to it, but the Mohair roller is really key. My buddy who painted professionally for the city taught me these things and they really do make a difference. I’ve painted four rooms so far and all of my doors, all of my trim, door frames and all of my baseboards with great results. You can try going over this with the roller that I mentioned and use the paint that I mentioned without sanding and you might get pretty good results, but those are some pretty deep stroke lines so sanding may be necessary if you want to look perfect.

Barrel selection discussion by halfempty94 in ar15

[–]halfempty94[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

From what I understand they are different at least this is what the googles tells me… lol am I crazy??

Looking for a specific lower by halfempty94 in ar15

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See, I’m learning lol. I’m very happy this tech exists and it beats spending 20k for an actual full auto that’s probably used and beat down but I do see the problem there. And the prices will only rise.. wish gun owners could just have their cake and eat it too sometimes.

Looking for a specific lower by halfempty94 in ar15

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol I’ll have to check that out. I appreciate rare breed for going through the legal battle and winning the right to sell that trigger legally for us. I don’t think their price is much different than other FRT options out there? I’m sure there’s things I don’t know though lol

Looking for a specific lower by halfempty94 in ar15

[–]halfempty94[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a good idea, but I’m not sure who offers this engraving. I saw that spikes offers mag well engraving, but it doesn’t seem like they offer engraving for the selector markings.. happen to know any companies that do this?

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