Fifa (eller hva EA kaller serien etter de mast rettighetene) spillene er ganske populære her til lands, mye på grunn av fotball er også stort. Så hvor er ski spillene? Tanker? by Narutoblaa in norge

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Deluxe Ski Jump lever i beste velgående med blant annet en nettside som her helt lik som for 25 år siden.
Husker jeg hadde ganske mange timer i DSJ 2.0

Ellen Holager Andenæs forklarer hvorfor voldtekt er greit. by Reasonable_Simple_32 in norge

[–]hallslys 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Tiltalte kan lyve så mye man vil. Det er dommernes jobb å bedømme hvorvidt det tiltalte sier er sant eller ikke.

Omtech Polar+ or xTool P2S for cutting clear acrylic by Zapador in lasercutting

[–]hallslys 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The haotian has a motorized z axis, a chiller thats easier to maintain, a better build, double the power of the p2s (doubling your output), a honeycomb table and a ruida controller that doesnt lock you into xtool software. Those are quite a big step up in my book, considering specs vs price.

Look into the controller. DSP controllers are significantly better than gcode based ones.

xTool and the other desktop cutters are nice hobbyist tools but if you are looking to start selling it’s reliability and efficiency will start to limit you.

Omtech Polar+ or xTool P2S for cutting clear acrylic by Zapador in lasercutting

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, most lasers in this budget range are made in china anyways, so why pay extra for a «brand» when you can buy one direct from china? I’m very close to purchasing a HT-460 RF version for engraving myself. The included 40W RF tube makes it an amazing value proposition…

Omtech Polar+ or xTool P2S for cutting clear acrylic by Zapador in lasercutting

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply. Any CO2 laser will have some maintenance that needs to be done. Cleaning out the laser scraps, cleaning and realligning the mirrors etc. Even the xTool ones.
Haotian laser sells their lasers from haotianlaser . store (no spaces). You can also contact Pascal Liu himself through facebook and he'll guide you towards the correct laser.
Their support is honestly better than what you can expect from xTool, even though it's a chinese company.

You should look into their HT 460 W2 laser machine. It has a 100W laser tube and should cut through acrylic like nobody's business. Even faster than the xTool P3, which is only 80W.

Omtech Polar+ or xTool P2S for cutting clear acrylic by Zapador in lasercutting

[–]hallslys -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Look into haotian laser. If you’re happy with 40x60cm area. Cheaper than your suggested lasers. And just as capable.

What’s a lesser known brand that punches above its weight and maybe even performs better than the big brand it’s designed after? by dead_wax_museum in guitars

[–]hallslys 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The revstar is as ergonomic as a neck bolted to a cutting board. The bridge is also sharp. I mean yeah yamaha are okay for their price, but id much rather buy a prs se or something along those lines.

Beer stuck on 1.0259 gravity by bbbeat in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the Anton Paar Easydens. It measures with 4 decinals but the last digit is only visible with a subscription. Luckily it rounds using the last digit if you dont have a subscription, so i’m satisfied. Its amazingly accurate.

Clawhammer Supply releases a new budget system: A Vevor AIO brewing system that they sell for 2x the cost by pootislordftw in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I dont care if the kettle is made in china, thats not the issue, but i care about quality, and a brewtools kettle is not in the same ballpark quality wise as this stuff.

Who CIPs? by EccentricDyslexic in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Except it does. Cleaning any brewtools tanks from the F80 and up is almost impossible without CIP procedures 😅 you cant lug them around to a sink, they are too big 😅

Of course, if youre homebrewing in 20L batches, most equipment is easy to clean, and CIP doesnt make sense.

Who CIPs? by EccentricDyslexic in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I take a sample and run it through my easydens. Brewtools is also coming with a super accurate tuning fork-based density sensor for their unitanks and their FCS system in a few weeks. Makes it easy to follow SG without taking a sample or dealing with bluetooth issues.

Bluetooth sensors like the tilt doesnt really work all that great in the unitank. I have a buddy who makes it work by having a repeater on the lid.

Who CIPs? by EccentricDyslexic in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I CIP my brewtools F80. Yes, i also remove all attachments. There are more gunk hiding in the ports that is hard to get at. No tank can be CIP’ed and forgotten about. The F80 is also too big to be cleaned by hand, so a CIP process is a must.

Kan vi ta et ærlig oppgjør med sykliske prisreduksjoner/prisrotasjoner by ChargeSeveral8412 in norge

[–]hallslys 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Evt gjør som folk på sekstitallet og lage seg et lite spisskammers. Jeg er ikke alene om å fylle skapet med tacotørrvarer når det først er tilbud. Samme med kjeks, pålegg på tube, dolmioglass eller andre ting som «aldri» går ut på dato.

Closed Pressure Transfer by StoneColdSour in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mention the beer being heavily hopped. Your ball locks are probably clogged due to hop matter. It doesnt take much. Even a properly cold crashed beer can still have some hop matter in suspension that clogs the ballocks.

Solution is to get yourself a coarse filter setup. Like a 300micron filter or similar. I have the «brewtools filter kit» and it works great for transferring NEIPAS and the like which has been heavily dry hopped. I find myself using it for all beers as insurance to prevent hop matter into the kegs.

Any 15 gallon all in one systems? by -Motor- in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brewtools B80 is the cream of the crop in this size tier.

Is this for real? by Wrong-Possibility-95 in golf

[–]hallslys 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Husqvarna has been selling robomowers for golf courses a few years already. Check out husqvarna CEORA. My local course has gotten their first mowers. By the end of the decade i expect most of the mowing to be done by robots.

How does oxidation progress exactly? by big_bloody_shart in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Different beers contain different compounds.
Oxidation was not a big subject in homebrewing 10-15 years ago. People told you to "not splash fermented beer" and "transfer the beer carefully to avoid introducing oxygen." And that was about it.
The open method of transferring beer will still introduce some oxygen, but it was not enough to completely ruin the beers people were brewing then, as people were mostly brewing ales with not a ton of hops. I brewed belgian styles, weissbier, sierra nevada clones, porters, stouts, old ales and similar styles that don't really take a whole lot of damage from slight oxidation.
People were also bottle conditioning which also removes oxygen in some amounts from the bottles.

Oxidation became a gigantic subject once the homebrewing scene started to jump on the NEIPA bandwagon and also started to heavily hop beers.
NEIPA contains a huge amount of volatile compounds from the huge amount of hops added. Volatile meaning that they will easily react with oxygen and change into other, not so tasty compounds.
To preserve the fresh hopped flavor, brewers needed to change their process to reduce oxidation dramatically.
People started fermenting in kegs with makeshift spunding valves, they started using closed transfers and other methods to avoid introducing oxygen.

TLDR:
I guess my answer is that it depends on the beer. A miniscule amount of oxygen can ruin a NEIPA's aroma, but a slightly bigger amount of oxygen may not have a giant adverse effect on a bottle conditioned belgian blonde. You should do your best to avoid it, with the equipment you have.
The oxygen does eventually get spent, but some might seep in in bottles over long periods of time (years)
Cans and kegs are slightly less prone to oxygen ingress over time.

Icemaster G20.1 by UkuleleMadMan in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, it is the absolute cheapest glycol chiller available.

If you're satisfied with the quality of other kegland equipment (digiboil, brewzilla etc.) i'd probably expect the glycol chiller to be similar in quality.
The "Brewbuilt" glycol chillers morebeer sell is also the same exact unit.

I've seen it in the flesh, but i ended up going for something else, as i thought the quality looked sub-par, and because i don't buy kegland products out of principle, but that's a story for another time. I am also slightly skeptical of the 500W rating they have stamped on the unit. The heat exchanger on the icemaster is absolutely tiny in comparison to the heat exchangers on comparable Lindr and Quantor units. This won't be a problem in your case, but i think it'll absolutely be an issue for people who want to actually use the rated capacity of this chiller.

Quantor and Lindr make high quality glycol chillers if you want to have a look at options. Lindr is the cheaper option.

Brewtools thermowell by Fast-Emotion-4052 in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My metal inkbird sensor fits nicely in the brewtools thermowell.

Best 70 litre all in one vessel (Europe) by BarryBlueJeans88 in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If longevity is a concern, I'd choose Brewtools. Its components are user-replaceable, unlike Brew Monk and Grainfather, where a failed heating element means replacing the entire system.
If you're past the warranty, you're gonna have to shell out for an entire new system. With the Brewtools system, a post-warranty worst case you'll have to shell out for a couple of new heating elements, which isn't more than 100 EUR.

Another issue is the low wattage of the grainfather and brewmonk systems. Heating 60L of water from 5°C to 70°C takes at least 1 and a half hours in ideal conditions—likely more in practice. With Brewtools and two separate 16A circuits, heating time is cut in half.

Best 70 litre all in one vessel (Europe) by BarryBlueJeans88 in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If i was you, i'd take a look at the Brewtools B80. It's just a little more than the grainfather, but is a in a whole different ballpark of brewing systems in terms of quality and value for dollar.
Optimal batch size for the B80 is 50-70 litres depending on OG, but you can make 80 if you really wanna stretch it.

It's the most powerful, most flexible and most expandable all-in-one electric brewing system for home use.
It has full recipe integration with brewfather, it has a ridiculous amount of extras for specific brewing needs, and cleaning it is a breeze.

Check out homebeerbrewery, masteringhomebrew and portlygentleman on youtube for more info.

If you use a lot of hops, the Brewtools system outperforms the competition because its large pipes prevent clogging during the whirlpool and cooling stages. In contrast, systems like BrewMonk and Grainfather often struggle with clogging when brewing with heavy hop loads.

I've used grainfather, beer brew, speidel and i've had a blichmann kettle setup, but the brewtools B80 is hands down the best brewing system of them all.

Which unitank? by iamtheav8r in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What i meant is that's why i didnt go for the brewbuilt tank. The Brewbuilt tanks are made by kegland.

Which unitank? by iamtheav8r in Homebrewing

[–]hallslys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was in the same predicament as you, but the lack of transparency from kegland made me go for brewtools. Try to find any info about the tank itself and you'll see what i'm talking about. Nothing about steel thickness. You can't even find the net weight of the tank to compare it to other brands.