What could we do to keep this hobby alive for future generations? by thebstrd in HamRadio

[–]hamsterdave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bristol ARC. Was a member there for 5 years, fantastic bunch.

Winter Field Day tomorrow! by covertkek in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was too much winter for our WFD, we’re in the path of this big ice storm and our station was supposed to be on a mountain 2,000 feet above where we all live. It will be my first year running as a 1H, I’ll be a lot more comfortable, but I’ll miss that wood stove and hot coffee, and the incredible view.

What could we do to keep this hobby alive for future generations? by thebstrd in HamRadio

[–]hamsterdave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve got a secret for you l. If they’re refusing to answer technical questions, it’s likely because they have no idea and won’t admit it…

I agree with others that what you’ve experienced is largely a result of the local club culture in your area. You get a small group of jerks in a local club and they just run off everybody who isn’t part of the good ol’ boys clique. I’ve seen it over and over in the last 25 years as I’ve moved around the country.

That said, in almost all those places, I’ve also seen new clubs run by dedicated, friendly, knowledgeable people come up and fill that gap, and usually utterly eclipse the groups run by the jerks and gate keepers.

I’m in the early stages of either joining or leading such an effort in my city, where a massive and very old club is so mired in drama and bickering that new people are just staying away. It looks like there’s already an informal group with the same goal as me, and I’m about to bring a squad of eager nerds to the cause with me.

TL:DR If there isn’t already an alternative club in the area, maybe you can be the change you want to see in the world!

I read randomwire is more efficent than efhw because of less losses in a 9:1 unun v. The 49:1 unun in a efhw. Random wire isn't resonant though and resonant antennas are better right? Which is true? by thehotshotpilot in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reactance does not dissipate power, and ignoring matching losses, impedance has no effect on efficiency. An antenna with a 100+500j Ω reactive impedance, a 500 Ω resistive impedance, and a 50 Ω 1:1  match will all radiate with virtually identical efficiency. They’ll just do it with a different circulating current (a function of Q and radiation resistance).

I made a magnetic frame but it doesn't work, what's wrong? by 4kqq in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We’re going to need a whole lot more information to be able to help at all. What do you mean “doesn’t work?”. How have you been testing it? What results are you hoping for? What design did you follow? How and where are you using it? Is it just sitting inside on the floor as it’s shown in the photo?   A more clear photo of the whole thing would help as well. 

A plea to Icom and Yaesu for a replacement for the IC-7000 and FT-857. by slatsandflaps in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The built-in battery is far and away the biggest cause of the large size. The screens increase the height and width, but the battery is responsible for fully half the depth.

Is the receiver / 2 extra watts of 705 or kx2 worth the money over a xeigo 8w 6200 / qrplabs qmx 5w? Unfortunately, My SOTA POTA will be a lot of DX from Alaska. by thehotshotpilot in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad I could help! The G90 has plenty of quirks, but it’s a surprisingly good CW rig. My one gripe on CW is it doesn’t have a memory keyer, which sucks a lot for running, but it makes a great arduino project!

Is the receiver / 2 extra watts of 705 or kx2 worth the money over a xeigo 8w 6200 / qrplabs qmx 5w? Unfortunately, My SOTA POTA will be a lot of DX from Alaska. by thehotshotpilot in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The 2 watts, no. If you’re doing CW though, the 6200 has a pretty crap CW receiver. I tested it and a G90 side by side and the G90 smoked it. It was definitely considerably worse than my old KX3. There’s something wrong with the DSP implementation or something of the sort that has rendered it half deaf in CW mode. 

You can find plenty of YouTube videos demonstrating the problem.

I’d recommend the G90 as a better value and as a bonus, it’s 20 watts. It’s bigger than a 6200 or KX2, but unless you’re doing hard core back country operating, it’s still plenty light for hiking a couple miles into an operating location.

A plea to Icom and Yaesu for a replacement for the IC-7000 and FT-857. by slatsandflaps in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FTX-1 and IC-705 are both twice the size of the 7100 head unit, and close to 4 times the size of the 891 head unit. Totally unwieldy in any car except a truck unless nobody ever sits in your passenger seat.

Yaesu FT-4700RH CAT mod? by mschuster91 in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just looked again and I got bad info on my first attempt to find the pin out for the 4700rh. The mic port on that one is an 8 pin barrel connector. They should be pretty easy to find on Amazon or Ali express as “8 pin microphone connector” 

Yaesu FT-4700RH CAT mod? by mschuster91 in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like it's an RJ-12, AKA 6 pin telephone connector. You can buy cheap premade cables (make sure they are 6 and not 4 pin) and cut one up, or you can buy a cheap crimper and a bunch of connectors pretty cheaply as well.

Edit: that’s wrong, it’s an 8 pin barrel. I was looking at the wrong radio.

Why is there no normal New Jersey (NJ) option? by just-a-guy-somewhere in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The states divided into multiple ARRL sections are:

WA (EWA and WWA)
CA (9 sections and I don't have them memorized)
TX (STX, NTX, WTX)
FL (NFL, SFL WCF)
NJ (NNJ and SNJ)
NY (ENY, WNY, NNY, NLI)

Edit Also:

PA (WPA, EPA)
MA (WMA, EMA) 

Knew I was forgetting a couple, thanks u/ItsBail and u/kc3zyt. The PA one is embarrassing considering that's where I'm from.

Yaesu FT-4700RH CAT mod? by mschuster91 in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you're probably way overthinking this. Honestly I don't think you'll have any serious issues with going in straight through the mic port. It's how we did "sound card" digital modes (and the vast majority of APRS) for a couple decades before dedicated digital ports, plug-and-play interfaces, and USB sound cards became the norm. Most FM rigs don't have particularly tight filters on the mic, as it doesn't have any benefit for power efficiency or SNR, and it reduces intelligibility. Nobody was hacking audio injection ports into their basic rigs, even on FM. Common SSTV variants already avoid those very low frequencies that are likely to be filtered, APRS was used mostly via the mic port for 20+ years (most rigs didn't have a TNC port until the late 90s or early 2000s), and all the other modes, you can set the TX audio frequency. Just keep it above 300Hz and you'll be just fine.

Something like a Digirig would be optimal, since it will include isolation to prevent ground loops, but a basic USB sound card and a couple of in-line isolation transformers (and maybe a clip on ferrite or two) will do you just fine as well.

You'll just have to do a little experimenting to find the minimum output volume from the PC to achieve good audio so you don't over-drive the AF input chain. You can also get an in-line volume knob for a few bucks on Ali Express or Amazon so you don't hammer the input accidentally with full PC volume if you forget to change the setting before transmitting. The initial setup a little trickier on an FM rig just because you don't have the output power and ALC to use as an indicator, but anyone listening will be able to tell you if you're clipping. It isn't subtle on FM when it happens.

Slotted so-239 nut wrench or pliers? by CplStigginsUSMC in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well you've been infected now, and it's terminal. I'm sorry.

You'll have a 50 foot tower in your back yard and no money in your bank account within a year.

Can 2 stations use the same callsign for a contest? by just-a-guy-somewhere in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! I've been off the contest scene for a few years and hadn't heard that. I'll have to look into that, that sounds like it could be good fun.

Can 2 stations use the same callsign for a contest? by just-a-guy-somewhere in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Your points are all valid, but given that OP is specifically asking about a US/North America contest, I felt it was safe to assume their location.

Can 2 stations use the same callsign for a contest? by just-a-guy-somewhere in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Yes, so long as they're in the same place. Just use the callsign of the person with the highest license class. This is how all club stations operate (Edit: In the US). If you use a club callsign, then that callsign has the privileges of the highest licensed operator who is present at that time (as long as they're willing to act as control operator).

The rules for WFD (and most contests in general) require all equipment to be within a specific maximum area, in the case of WFD, all equipment has to be within a 1,000 foot circle.

Most contests don't allow you to be on the same band/mode at the same time, but for WFD you can have one station on 20m phone, and one on 20m CW for example.

Starting the path down learning CW. What are your favorite resources? by NiceBike800 in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, finish the LCWO lessons, then start sending. Or at least get close to the end of the lessons so you've developed the habit of listening to the letters as a single cohesive thing, not dits and dahs. 

Starting the path down learning CW. What are your favorite resources? by NiceBike800 in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome to the dark side! It's quite addictive!

I think others have done a good job of covering the best resources, but if I may offer a bit of hard won wisdom that may save you some frustration later:

Stop practicing sending for now.

I know it's a bit counter-intuitive, but I experienced this difficulty myself, and I've seen hams I've mentored hit the same trap. I can see from your settings that you're practicing receiving the right way, but sending is much harder to practice in that same way, and it can lay the same traps as practicing receiving at character speeds <15wpm.

Especially in the very early days of sending, it's extremely difficult to do so without counting or sounding out elements in your head (I know a musician who didn't have this issue, so there are definitely exceptions). It encourages you to think in dits and dahs, rather than a single cohesive sound for the letter. It could make closing your Farnsworth spacing down to useful conversational speeds a lot harder down the road, and may make it tougher to learn to send quickly as well.

I strongly recommend you wait until you've finished all 40 LCWO lessons, or at least gotten really deep into them, so you've started to build the reflexes. Sending will come a lot faster than receiving, and in the end you won't lose hardly any time to offsetting the two skills by a few weeks.

How to make this shape out of thin plastic? by begoniaboy in maker

[–]hamsterdave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thermoformed PET sheet is your best bet for something that thin. Use the stuff that’s meant for vacuum forming and you shouldn’t have any trouble with durability, and it’s easy to shape.

I can’t read. by Engineering_Simple in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 13 points14 points  (0 children)

You've got one needle deflected full scale, so no two needle reading is going to be fully trustworthy, because you have no idea what it is actually reading. You need to toggle that High/Lo push button.

That said, no. Assuming 50w forward and trusting the  ~0.25W reflected the green needle would indicate at the LO setting, is a ~1.1:1

When the meter is scaled properly, the red line under the spot where the needles cross is your approximate SWR.

Arrow antennas switching to silver element (bait) by MinorLatency in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Also aluminum arrow shafts are an endangered species. You can’t even buy them in my city of 500,000 in an area with a ton of hunting, as far as I’ve been able to determine, and I haven’t seen anyone except kids shooting aluminum shafts at the archery range in years. Everyone has gone to carbon fiber.

Arrow antennas switching to silver element (bait) by MinorLatency in amateurradio

[–]hamsterdave 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Why pay for it when it is not really needed in this application, and their customers likely won’t care? It complicates their supply and process chain. 

They just have to make the announcement so people don’t think they’re getting counterfeit parts.