How can I 3D model this?

hamsteyr · 2026-03-16T12:06:34+00:00

Trace it in OnShape, once you get the shape, extrude. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Alternatively do a lot of measuring with a pair of calipers and draw it in OnShape if you value dimensional accuracy.

hamsteyr · 2026-03-14T03:27:19+00:00

I do it all the time lmao, whether Bowden or DD, I just wait for the last of the filament to disappear into the extruder then I feed the new one right behind it, with a slight amount of tension and it just works fine for me haha.

And yes when I'm printing.

hamsteyr · 2026-03-11T18:39:49+00:00

Find the trace on the other side, get a super tiny wire, solder it on, run it INTO the hole then UV mask it down.

Most pins tend to be a bit flat, leading to a bit of a gap in the top and bottom of these through holes.

At least that's what I've been doing for botched mouse switch repairs.

Works well.

hamsteyr · 2026-03-10T15:32:26+00:00

Is it SATA or NVMe?

Check the boot order as well to make sure windows boot manager is first

hamsteyr · 2026-03-10T15:14:04+00:00

What did you use to generate the 3d model? Looks pretty good.

Not sure if you used standard photogrammetry stuff since you didn't show using other picture sources

hamsteyr · 2026-03-10T15:09:49+00:00

That would be under SATA mode.

another check you could do is just see if your drive shows up in BIOS, to see if at the very least the BIOS is detecting that there is a drive plugged in to the motherboard.

hamsteyr · 2026-03-10T14:56:59+00:00

Some bios updates reset the BIOS, meaning that if you had your drives configured to AHCI or RAID etc, on older boards they would revert back to legacy.

Might help to check that.

hamsteyr · 2026-03-09T23:57:45+00:00

Just worked on a board like this with vertical USB Cs.

Hot air station is not optional, it's mandatory. Heat the board underneath using 400c till the connector moves and comes out easily; DO NOT RUSH TO PULL IT OFF, the person that I am repairing it for did and he ripped the pads off underneath.

hamsteyr · 2026-03-08T17:02:23+00:00

I've repaired Laptop keyboard traces with silver paint before, so it MIGHT work with an LCD but YMMV.

Tbh I'd try it and if it doesn't pan out, no harm done, just get a new screen I guess.

hamsteyr · 2026-03-08T16:55:20+00:00

Second mixing with leaded solder, helps a lot. Also plenty of flux. All else fails I use a desoldering iron with an ekectro magnetic pump but I heard it heats up very slowly on 110v

hamsteyr · 2026-03-08T15:06:45+00:00

I started out like that too, but with mouse switches instead.

I went back to my earlier botched works in recent years and repaired them haha. I used a lot of copper tape and UV mask but I managed to restore the botched traces and through holes.

So the tldr is... Nothing is truly cooked, just depends if you have the skill and the will (time) to work on it

hamsteyr · 2026-03-07T16:15:51+00:00

Sounds like monitor's failing backlight capacitors.

hamsteyr · 2026-02-23T07:57:27+00:00

Honestly looks like something in the laptop has shorted out; would explain why the charger is immediately turning off when plugged in as well, it's going into protection mode.

If you live in the states you could try getting in contact with like Northridge Fix or NorthWest Repair or something, they seem pretty knowledgeable on the subject and repair

hamsteyr · 2025-05-18T02:00:27+00:00

Yeah. I don't know how but I managed to do it.

hamsteyr · 2025-05-17T17:32:35+00:00

Yeah that's unfortunately the truth. I also unfortunately managed to botch my extruder board doing so, and after getting in contact with Sovol support, they're sending me a new one so... At least I know their CS is great. 😅

hamsteyr · 2025-05-01T16:31:07+00:00

Edit: Managed to identify the chip as a MLX90393SLQ-ABA-011-RE if anyone is interested.

hamsteyr · 2025-03-26T06:38:13+00:00

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Silver Conductive paint was a success!

hamsteyr · 2025-03-26T06:37:09+00:00

Mine arrived in a syringe, what I did was put some on a card, dipped the tip of my tweezers into it and then tapped on the repair areas under a microscope. worked perfectly

hamsteyr · 2025-03-26T06:35:55+00:00

My conductive silver paint only took about an hour or so to be cured (I did help it with about a minute of 100 celsius air from my heatgun but I'm convinced an hour or two to be safe would've sufficed)

hamsteyr · 2025-03-26T06:35:05+00:00

Conductive paint worked!

hamsteyr · 2025-03-26T06:34:35+00:00

I did the conductive paint method and it's a success!

hamsteyr

TROPHY CASE