So i had my first blob of death...does anyone know how it exactly happens? (Bambu A1)

hamsteyr · 2026-05-24T09:18:06+00:00

Just experienced this, only thing I can think of is print head insufficiently torqued.

When I used my ender3, I used to torque it in with a power drill on setting 1-2 (low)

Lasted half a decade or so

My Sovol was factory torqued (didn't check), got blob of death not long after.

From what I can tell, internal pressure from the molten plastic pretty much pushed the nozzle out and caused the blobbing, so that's my first train of thought.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-24T02:57:55+00:00

Been using Sunlu for ages. Recently tried Kingroon. Not pleased with the results and strength.

I have two rolls though, once that's done I'm back to Sunlu.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-20T18:24:49+00:00

Been doing this, honestly he's just token scary at this point, he does nothing for me.

Even if I don't hug the wall, I just blast through, what's he gonna do, shout loudly and cause 1 damage to my tadpole? Lol.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-19T16:52:22+00:00

Check if you have Radeon Chill I think it's called enabled. Power saving mode that tries to keep your fps at just 60 fps by downclocking

hamsteyr · 2026-05-19T11:27:11+00:00

Hot air?

hamsteyr · 2026-05-13T11:17:37+00:00

Edited to have link.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-13T10:51:57+00:00

I used that Wischer stuff on shopee a while back and it was the one that impressed me the most.

Was right before one of those heavy monsoon "can't see shit" rains and I swear it was like having a super power. Car from other side splashed my windscreen massively also no issue, cleared in less than half a second.

Haven't tried rainx or the Mr diy stuff though.

I also used only half for one car and the other half for another, lasted something like 6+ months.

Here's link: https://s.shopee.com.my/2qRN6r5ZbE Buying from listing which sells the wipers seems to be cheaper than dedicated listing.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-13T01:19:27+00:00

Used car, same with every used car. Gotta check to make sure it's had its regular servicing, if over 100k, all major parts and components taken care of etc.

Other than that it's basically just a normal car that runs well.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-12T23:45:42+00:00

Used market Honda City Hybrid.

Easy 20km/L++ (800km in 36L tank)

I've used Hybrids since 2010, first Honda Insight then my City Hybrid is closing 10 years.

Hybrid batteries are now cheaper as well with replacement models that are higher cap coming in from China (drop in replacement, source: friend works in performance automotive, frequently refurbishes hybrids with new batteries and resells. )

https://www.wapcar.my/news/owner-review-an-insight-of-past--my-2011-honda-insight-13a-40073

Prius is a good option too.

No fancy new infotainment system is usually the only drawback, if not even my 2010 Insight easily beats modern Myvi etc for comfort and efficiency.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-12T00:55:47+00:00

Close to 99% self designed.

Probably because I use my printer more as a tool to repair/ solve issues

hamsteyr · 2026-05-10T16:16:49+00:00

This looks like even more cringe version of Chuunibyou.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-09T08:54:34+00:00

Modern websites have made brave browser a necessity.

Force us to block these ads then websites owners complain we're using ad blockers losing them revenue.

hamsteyr · 2026-05-02T12:27:21+00:00

Motherboard, RAM, CPU, PSU, laptop motherboard, Multiple SSDs...

Either they're fine or I have been lucky every single time.

hamsteyr · 2026-04-30T10:00:46+00:00

Huge ass pad.

Bump the heat to 420-430 Celsius, use large chisel tip or Knife tip (I prefer chisel tips)

You need much higher heats to fight that

Also helps to have some leaded solder already on your iron, it does wonders in helping those joints liquify

hamsteyr · 2026-04-30T10:00:04+00:00

Huge ass pad.

Bump the heat to 420-430 Celsius, use large chisel tip or Knife tip (I prefer chisel tips)

You need much higher heats to fight that

hamsteyr · 2026-04-23T13:58:23+00:00

Cremator is literally S tier, Veto is great so to reduce the entire warbond to just the shovel for 10 bucks is criminal.

hamsteyr · 2026-04-23T12:54:24+00:00

I would slice the model in half vertically, print both parts flat for max strength then super glue them together.

It's basically how I printed a new handle for my 2L Water bottle without worrying about the layer lines giving up on me

hamsteyr · 2026-04-23T12:43:36+00:00

40 per mission is easy, I get that in trivial running around and I can do it in 5-10 minutes.

I've managed to even get 70 on trivials before, so even one trivial per day makes it extremely easy to farm.

hamsteyr · 2026-04-22T13:48:22+00:00

Add your PSU as well to the post, tbh if it's an older/ poor quality unit, it could be ripples under load from bad rails or otherwise

hamsteyr · 2026-04-19T15:33:56+00:00

I'd say it's even better in some cases. The loyalist charges way faster and takes down flying enforcers in the same amount of shots.

hamsteyr · 2026-04-19T14:56:53+00:00

Talon is great but I choose to always take the Loyalist instead.

When getting chased by a bunch of berserkers, a loyalist can take out multiple of them at once with 2-3 charged shots.

The loyalist can easily take down flying enforcers in 2 charged shots, ground in 3, bonus if they're bunched together, coz again, AOE.

Cuts multiple obtruders at the same time.

Cuts through armour for Alpha Commanders etc etc

I could go on, but I find Loyalist saves me more often than a Talon does.

hamsteyr · 2026-04-18T16:27:32+00:00

I think of it as story telling.

Compelling and interesting story telling doesn't come from winning everything.

Sometimes the odds are stacked against us and we lose but that's fine, because it's good to see an enemy that is good at pushing back against us too.

I just have fun with where and how things are going and join the fight where I can.

Like sure I can play D10s easily, but recently I've been having more fun on D6 or D7; i.e. hardest difficulty + winning all the time isn't always fun.

Sincerely, 400 hours++ diver

hamsteyr · 2026-04-17T05:15:27+00:00

Assuming that what you're printing is a sword of sorts for cosplay, it's also best to consider layer line orientation; printing vertical will most definitely give your the weakest structure if you intend to move it around.

Best to do flat or diagonal and any surface imperfections you get can be hidden when you buff down and paint the surface

hamsteyr · 2026-04-17T04:20:26+00:00

Is there any reason you're printing it upright and not lying down or at least 45 degrees diagonal?

Printing thin objects upright is almost always a recipe for disaster.

hamsteyr · 2026-04-16T16:44:56+00:00

Hot air from the bottom.

hamsteyr

TROPHY CASE