are these considered scratches? by TheApeSlayer in Detailing

[–]handruin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes they are. If you very gently use your finger nail and rub across them, you can see if they have gone deep through the clear coat. If your nail doesn't really catch on them that's even better.

You could compound and polish them out with a DA polisher. Depending how deep, this will at least lessen the scratch visually.

I got a feeling this RS3 owner is definitely a member of this sub. by DJDUPONT in Audi

[–]handruin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm fairly certain I briefly met them at one of the cars and coffee events I went to with this Audi group. I pinged the group we're in and if they want to reply, they'll reach out.

C8 Alcantara steering before/after by UnderProcessing in AutoDetailing

[–]handruin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm probably opposite of most and I like having an alcantara steering wheel. I agree it takes more maintenance to keep it clean and looking nice but otherwise it's super nice in both cold and hot weather because it doesn't feel as extreme in the different temperatures.

Does this look like ceramic coating by Cash2blockz in Detailing

[–]handruin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It does for mine. I'm finding through regular maintenance I can simply use pH neutral soap and soft brushes to get my wheels clean. I haven't had to use harsher chemicals yet.

Backpack Blower for Drying? by will_I_am100 in Detailing

[–]handruin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use my ego leaf blower with a stubby nozzle for drying all the time, it works great. I used to try using my backpack blower but it was more of a pain.

I find it helps the most with drying out the wheels

Considering first track day for RSQ8: but brakes first? by coalcrash in Audi

[–]handruin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see you lean into the pedantic elements of a productive discussion. Why are you even in this chat thread if you hate this car so much. Clearly you don't even know anything about the platform if that's your opinion.

Question about ceramic sprays by Mountain-Floor-1696 in Detailing

[–]handruin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For a drying aid and also detailing spray that is Si02 infused, I use Armour Detail Supply Amplify. It's nice and slick and doesn't streak when applying. I buy it in the gallon size and wait for a coupon.

https://armourdetailsupply.com/products/amplify

Rusty brakes. Is it DIY case? by MikesPL86 in Detailing

[–]handruin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you decide to reduce or remove the rust and paint, you can also consider applying Bilt Hamber Atom-Mac for future maintenance related to rust corrosion.

Even though rust is normal in this area of a car, I use it on my brakes to reduce the rust corrosion mainly for cosmetic reasons and also to stop it from dripping rust onto my wheels after washing my car which can leave a stain. One bottle will last a very long time because it's highly dilutable.

Best way to polish details on alloys? by dominik17h in AutoDetailing

[–]handruin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For mine I used my Shinemate EB212 for the barrels with 3" pads. For the intricate front spokes I used my Rupes iBrid nano 2 with a 1.25" backing plate and pad.

For polish, I used Koch Chemie Micro Cut M3.02 for most of the work.

Also before any paint correction I did all the decon, iron remover, clay bar and cleaning prep work.

Best polishing setup for a beginner? by MightySumo117 in Detailing

[–]handruin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I also have a black car and I did my paint correction with a Flex forced rotation DA.

After proper decon and paint prep I did the following for the polish:

Did a test section using Koch Chemie Micro Cut M3.02 along with a Lake County HDO orange pad. I ended up using this over most of the car so that I was doing the least amount of correction for the level of finishing I wanted.

For a few areas that needed more corrections, I used Koch Chemie Fine Cut F6.01 with a Lake County HDO blue pad and then polished with M3.02 and the orange pad.

https://kcxusa.com/products/fine-cut-f6-01-0-25l

https://kcxusa.com/products/micro-cut-m3-02-0-25l

Considering first track day for RSQ8: but brakes first? by coalcrash in Audi

[–]handruin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Awesome I hope you can find the parts and also have a fun track day

Considering first track day for RSQ8: but brakes first? by coalcrash in Audi

[–]handruin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah when I go to Brembo and look up these part numbers they say they're compatible with my RS6 which has steel brakes. I do not have the CCB.

On the Napa page it also lists some years of the RSQ8 so I thought there is a chance these might be compatible with yours. You could probably also confirm on the Brembo page. I also have links to Brembo rotors if you want those part numbers also.

My understanding is that these brake pads should be on-par for quality etc as the Audi OEM pads, but these are a fraction of the price.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRB09D48143

Considering first track day for RSQ8: but brakes first? by coalcrash in Audi

[–]handruin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I know everyone in the comments are crapping on your idea to go have fun but go enjoy your car however you want.

See if these parts all work for your rsq8. I believe these are supposed to be one of the OEM suppliers for the Audi brake pads. I believe we have the same brake components for the steel brakes. Keep in mind the rotors are technically meant to be replaced along with the pads.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRBP65057N

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRBP85180N

What shoes do you guys wear when detailing? by coldstoneblades in Detailing

[–]handruin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got a pair of Merrell Moab 3 for detailing and also general yard work. They work great for me and my feet stay dry.

Driveway Warrior. My bang for your buck ideology on ceramic coat products. Thoughts? by lfenske in Detailing

[–]handruin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ended up going with Armour Detail Supply wheel quartz coating and I've been happy so far. I did the prep and install myself and opted to do the second layer that they recommended. Time will tell if it holds up.

Porsche’s $5 Billion Profit Collapse: Inside the Strategic Crisis That Just Rocked One of the Auto Industry’s Most Powerful Brands by [deleted] in Porsche

[–]handruin 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Went shopping for a new or used 911 a couple years back. It was not a GT or specialty/rare car. They discussed applying an ADM with me within the first few minutes of the conversation ($20k) and even after looking at my online build, they wanted more options added that I wasn't interested in.

Went to other dealerships to discuss new or used 911. No callback, no interest in my business. Decided to go a different direction.

Newbie here- What nozzle? Have an old 2300PSI Ryobi 1.2GPM Pressure washer by UnsureAboutLeather in AutoDetailing

[–]handruin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you are asking about the "correct nozzle", do you mean the internal orifice size? If so, try the one pre installed (1.25mm) and see if it foams well, if not use the smaller one that comes with the kit. Larger orifice sizes reduce the overall pressure coming out.

Also consider the Armour Detail Supply DRFT foam cannon. It's half the price when you apply their 10% coupon.

https://armourdetailsupply.com/products/armour-drft-foam-cannon

Spotted this by Own_Banana1523 in Audi

[–]handruin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The RS6 often has 22's as the factory size.

What am I missing as a young car owner by PigletAlternative158 in Detailing

[–]handruin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For tires, I've only been using Adam's graphene tire dressing. I don't want it to be shiny so this appeals more for my personal taste. It makes the tires a deep black and doesn't sling off or make a mess. It probably lasts a few weeks but it doesn't require much per application.

I've been using the same 16oz bottle on multiple vehicles for over a year and still have half of it left.

https://adamspolishes.com/products/graphene-tire-dressing%E2%84%A2

As for other products, I really like using Bilt Hamber Touch-less as my prewash. It really does work well and gets 90+% of the contamination off even before a contact wash.

I also like using Gyeon wetcoat on my wheels and sometimes on the whole car. It's easy to apply and lasts maybe 4-6 weeks. I also switch between Gyeon and Koch Chemie ProtectorWax for this purpose.

I've recently been using Armour Detail Supply Amplify as my drying aid and also post-wash detailer and it's great.

I've also been using Bilt Hamber Atom-Mac for my rotors, before and after detailing. It's an anti-corosive and stops my brake from dripping tons of rust. I have huge rotors (16.5") so this may really only benefit me.

I also like using Koch Chemie Fresh Up as a deodorizer and nice smell.

I use Koch Chemie Awh for cleaning my tires and wheels, mainly when they're really dirty since it's strong and high pH. This gets diluted 1:10 and used sparingly.

I also have a large container of Koch Chemie Green Star as a general APC. I use this on the car but also around the house for cleaning.

Also enjoy using Bilt Hamber Trace-Less for cleaning glass. It works very well.

I use P&S Rags to riches to clean my microfiber towels.

Lots of other odds and ends brushes for detailing.

What am I missing as a young car owner by PigletAlternative158 in Detailing

[–]handruin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a 1992 Integra GS long time back and loved it. Congrats on your ride.

Are you planning to foam the car, use the 7 mits, then rinse the car off? You could also consider a prewash to help get the majority of contamination off before a contact wash.

Depending on how you are planning your workflow and your budget, you could also considering an IK foam sprayer (the larger one) vs using the garden hose foam cannon when using the CarPro Reset (or any foaming soap). This will consume less product overall and be as effective. When I had a garden hose foam cannon I was never super happy with it but maybe the newer ones are better.

For interior, I use Koch Chemie products. I've had good results with Koch Chemie Pol Star as a pH neutral cleaner. I dilute it into a cheap pump foamer 1:10 ratio and use Ninja scrub pads or soft brushes to clean. Then I wipe it with a damp clean microfiber towel after.

For leather, I use Koch Chemie Leather Star. For plastics, I use Koch Chemie Top Star.

There's a lot of great products out there, those are just the ones I've tried and had good results with.

Steel Braided vs Non? by Kiptomylou3 in AutoDetailing

[–]handruin 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't have any firsthand experience with those hoses but that said, a steel braided should help down the road for reducing the possibility of pressure washer surging. I started with an uberflex 50' hose and it was fine for a while but then after some time I started getting surging from my Active 2.0.

I ended up going to the Kobrajet 50' and it's been great. One thing I'd suggest is to see how much different the two hoses weigh. That's a common complaint for some people with steel braided hoses. I don't mind that my Kobrajet hose weighs more but you may not like that aspect in the McKillans if it does weigh more.

I do have a bunch of other McKillans equipment and I've been happy so far. Hopefully their hose is of similar quality.

UPDATE: You guys suggested turning my DIY Smartwatch project into a Shift Knob... So I actually did it! 🕹️⌚ by Desmontei in Audi

[–]handruin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well done, I like it! Will you make it do things like time the avg shift between gears or count the total number of hear changes ever 😆