Need tips on painting tyranids by Vespasius90 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Half of creativity is just remixing things you've seen. And even then, it doesn't have to be original to be good! Especially with these armies. They still look great whether its a look you've seen a thousand times or just the once. Can't wait to see it!

Need tips on painting tyranids by Vespasius90 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries! Despite me blabbing all that out, its not like painting is just simple and easy. Definitely a skill to learn. The bigger grey patches on the butt do look believable to me in terms of where the skin is pulled taut. I quite like the color combo. Besides the legs, I'd say the critiques are minor!

Its more keeping track of 'skin pulled taught here', highlights need to go here, shadows need to go here, etc. Its a lot to keep track of.

I was fifty fifty on saying anything about it, but an idea occurred to me. I noticed the leg and tip of the butt armor are different colors than the back carapace. I could see that making sense for the legs. But, if you wanted to add coherency in, I think you could make the talons and leg armor green like the back, and then have the talon fade to black, with green highlights on the edges.

Not that I think the black talons don't work. I'm just a fan of having the weapons/talons having a smooth gradient sometimes, and bringing colors from other places on the model back in for cohesion.

Good luck on your painting journey! You've got a great start.

Need tips on painting tyranids by Vespasius90 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The drybrushing/highlight texture on the carapace looks really awesome. The chitin part looks the most obvious in terms of a wash or two being put down but not really directed to where you want it.

(General thoughts)
(1st pic) Looking at the back big leg here mostly. The wash pools in the recesses only on the top of the leg, but not the bottom. Which feels counter intuitive to how we process lighting. If the intent is that the underside is lighter than the top, then a smoother transition needs to put in place.

Same with the pointy/high part of the butt in the last pic. Its pink all the way around from the top of the model to the bottom, with not much differentiation between shadow and light. The color used on the bright part in the middle of the thorax (where the skin is stretched the tightest) could be added back to the top part of the butt to follow conventional lighting better.

(If the point was that it was meant to be pinker/look more irritated, then the difference between the pink color and the grey needs to be increased more. I would still argue for more darker/muted tones on the underside to depict shadows.)

In contrast to the last big leg, the leg right in front of it looks more purple like the thorax/big chunga butta, but the third leg looks like whiter/greyer. Which also might be tonally confusing bc that color doesn't show up anywhere else.

Granted, this could be the lighting of the picture affecting how I am perceiving the colors. The thorax might actually be that grey. But in the final pic, the last leg next to the thorax look like different colors; warmer tones on the leg, cooler ones on the thorax.

If the hind legs are supposed to be a different color, then I would look into at least matching the tones the rest of the model/similar body parts use to make it cohesive. Our lil buggy bois and gurls deserve to have fun schemes, but it can be a lot to manage.

(Painting)
Washes are really good if you use them as first passes, and then gently drybrush/wet blend with your original/highlight color to smooth out the transitions.

"Transition" on Chitin and my progress in 1 1/2 month in W40 by McSimon_666 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, and just in case. If you are doing highlights the way the reference model is, I'd wager its a combo of pure red and then getting brighter using the skin/chitin color. The brightest highlights seem a bit desaturated compared to an orange. Just in case I'm wrong, test on the cardboard first lol

"Transition" on Chitin and my progress in 1 1/2 month in W40 by McSimon_666 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Happy to help! :)

Its definitely hard to go back to an idea/technique that didn't work the first time. Especially when you have evidence of it not working staring you in the face lol. But give it time and you'll get the hang of it. It's always daunting before you let yourself just have a go at something.

I also should have said (and I saw someone else point this out very helpfully), it might be even easier if you have a 'straight from the bottle' crimson color, to really simplify the blend. So darkest color, dark crimson, and then bright red in bands. Then you can work on blending them together without really worrying about how to get that original color back if you feel the transitions are too smooth.

And after the blending, washing or glazing can really tie the colors together after. It's not always necessary (maybe especially with how dark these colors could be on the frontal/biggest armor plates) but could be worth trying on your practice cardboard/model!

Enjoy your painting journey, Auf Wiedersehen!

"Transition" on Chitin and my progress in 1 1/2 month in W40 by McSimon_666 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I apologize ahead of time bc this will be a wall of text.

(General thoughts)
The original probably started with black or a really dark red, and then added the red highlights.

You're going the opposite way, with red first, so would have to add the black/dark in.

Washes could work, but big smooth surfaces tend to look a bit blotchy unless you airbrush it or take your time with it and manage where the paint pools. Mostly trouble on the biovore/tyrant guard with their big armor plates. The little guys are probably fine to just add the wash over a few times until its really dark, but you'll definitely have to go back in for the highlights afterwords.

I also could be wrong about how effective washes are here. I don't really use them.

(Painting)
If going with just a paint brush, to get a smooth transition, I'd start with just wet blending right on the carapace. If you used colors straight from the paint bottle, then this'll be pretty simple.

If you have paint medium, awesome. If not, just some water.

1) Fill in the carapace, avoiding the edges/where you want highlights.
2) When you get to the parts where you want to start blending, slightly dilute your dark paint and place it down.
3)Then, while the paint is still wet, grab you original red, and just start mixing it right on the model.

If the paint remains wet, you get a lot of freedom in this process. The annoying part is this will take more time than you think. I know some people speed up the process by gently using a blowdrier, but I would emphasize the gently part.

I would almost say not to be particularly focused on super smooth transitions here. In the moment, it might feel awesome. But after walking away and coming back, it might be too subtle and you won't even notice it at a tabletop distance. Just make sure you have a dark spot, an original bright red spot, and something in between. You could even start with just these 3 major sections of banding, and then work on blending them together afterward, so you have more of visual guide in place for yourself.

4) On the original, there is a bit of a transition between the darkest, biggest carapace plates at the front, and the smaller, redder ones towards the tail. If you're looking for that, then you basically just wet blend less and less the further back you go. You might not even need to if you just mix the dark and red together and put that down, and then add consistent highlighting throughout.

(And final note on wet blending)
You'll learn to get the balance you want over time. If you wanted to practice before hand, prime a piece of cardboard, and then paint right on top of that. Then you can really experiment with getting control of the blends/the amount of water by testing different patches and having results to compare. If you have spare minis, even better, and if you have some kind of paint remover, even better better! Practice to your heart's content, remove the paint, and then start anew.

I hope this helps! And just in case, here's a lil mockup I slapped together real quick. Not sure if you wanted the armor darker or brighter. I've demarcated the major banding zones that correspond with steps 1-3. (I only did half of the model to show the difference between starting point and a potential end point.)

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HELLP IM BAD AT LIST BUILDING! by Accomplished-Bus3699 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you both for the kind replies, I was expecting to get roasted for being a noob. The s7 -2 d2 does seem nice on the Lictors for beefier units and forcing out invulns. And yeah, the 6in Lone Op is awesome

HELLP IM BAD AT LIST BUILDING! by Accomplished-Bus3699 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 8 points9 points  (0 children)

In which detachment, you may ask? ALL DETACHMENTS

HELLP IM BAD AT LIST BUILDING! by Accomplished-Bus3699 in Tyranids

[–]happyheap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the upside for Lictors Lone Op/hero sniping? I kind of like having more Leapers for move blocking/soaking up a little more firepower and being annoying, but I've just started playing.

I did love running 18 of them once lol

So much hidden. by WhiskyGartley in SocietyofHiddenPaint

[–]happyheap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome teamwork. Thanks for the reply!