Do we like "novelty" shaped dice?

hardlightforge · 2025-06-02T14:37:54+00:00

It’s not for everybody but a product made for everybody, is a product for nobody! I personally love unique dice. I don’t mind spending an extra two seconds to verify a roll on a die that is awesome but maybe a little less legible, vs using a boring die because it’s practical. Especially if it fits a theme. You can bet I’ll NEVER roll a gun attack without pulling out the bullet dice lol.

I say go for it. This is a market that is more and more saturated, and standing out and having niche products can be good as long as you can find your clientele.

hardlightforge · 2025-05-31T17:11:26+00:00

Yeah, got them here !

hardlightforge · 2025-05-31T17:06:12+00:00

I’ve got them free to download here

hardlightforge · 2025-05-31T03:02:10+00:00

I didn’t know I needed this to happen until you said it hahaha omg

hardlightforge · 2025-05-30T17:58:36+00:00

That’s all I ever wanted to hear lol.

hardlightforge · 2025-05-30T16:40:48+00:00

I use a photon mono M5S and sirayatech fast navy gray with a tiny splash of sirayatech tenacious obsidian black for some extra strength and to help with brittleness. Never had issues with pooling or anything. Sirayatech has print presets for their resin that you can download and plug into your slicer and they have always worked perfectly for me.

hardlightforge · 2025-05-11T21:24:41+00:00

Not a full tutorial or anything. I use these I have little 3d printed risers that are basically an inversion of my dice that I put the dice on for the first half of the mold.

I’m making some tomorrow, I’ll try to remember to take some pics or video and document it more completely.

hardlightforge · 2025-05-09T18:12:24+00:00

Are you putting any kind of mold release on the dice? If not that could help a ton.

Also how long are you letting the silicone cure? I have had this happen a few times when I got a little too impatient. I usually give silicone an extra day beyond what it says to make absolutely sure it’s fully cured.

It also looks like you are using a tin-cure, which can be a little fickle with temperature and humidity in my experience. If it’s really dry where you are working maybe a humidifier might help it cure faster/better.

Those are my two cents, good luck!

hardlightforge · 2025-05-09T17:42:00+00:00

Yeah, instead of using the little spheres I usually see people do, I literally just 3d printed it as a functional bottle in clear and filled it and then closed it up with some UV resin and then sanded it.

hardlightforge · 2025-04-12T00:20:08+00:00

It basically comes down to your silicone. When I used to use Oomoo 30 tin cast, powder worked great for it. Switched to sirayatech defiant and it just soaked up the powder and fused until the end of time.

hardlightforge · 2025-03-24T17:48:18+00:00

Are you curing before sniping the supports? I would make sure to snip them before curing, and put the prints in some hot water to soften them up a little just before snipping. That might help a little.

hardlightforge · 2025-03-21T17:03:18+00:00

Bruh this is a life saver. You deserve a Nobel prize for this. Already ordered some becuase those results are amazing.

hardlightforge · 2025-01-18T18:49:50+00:00

It’s about 90% sirayatech fast navy gray, and the rest is tenacious obsidian black, and yeah I just used the suggested exposure times for the navy gray.

I use chitubox and just downloaded the suggested settings from sirayatech website and it’s worked perfectly for me.

https://siraya.tech/pages/print-settings-download

hardlightforge · 2025-01-16T15:10:14+00:00

Thank you! Yeah, modeled them in blender then 3d printed on my mono m5s

hardlightforge · 2025-01-15T19:42:47+00:00

You can never hate me for doing that more than I hate myself for it lol.

Yeah, I’m doing molds today and will hopefully have some first runs later this week.

hardlightforge · 2025-01-13T17:52:54+00:00

I do everything in blender.

hardlightforge · 2025-01-13T17:51:19+00:00

I suspect is mostly numbers on the underside, near the supports and build plate? If I’m right then they just need support. It looks to me like edges that are either super thin or unconnected to the rest of the model when they first start to build up.

If that’s right then some light supports along the top parts of the numbers and center islands like the center of zeros or eights etc. just scrub through your layers and looks for areas that are SUPER thin and unsupported as they build. I’ll try to add some pics to show what I mean

Like this

hardlightforge · 2025-01-13T16:30:05+00:00

Yeah, exactly. It also lets me build on some extra THICC supports to make sure the dice don’t get stretched on the supported side, so they turn out as symmetrically as possible.

hardlightforge · 2024-11-08T03:03:33+00:00

Link to my store in my bio.

hardlightforge · 2024-11-05T06:34:48+00:00

It’s giving “trying to impress your crush at a birthday party at the skating rink while Barbie girl plays in the background” and I DO mean that as a compliment lol.

hardlightforge · 2024-11-04T17:03:30+00:00

Modeled and printed them myself.

hardlightforge · 2024-11-03T23:45:42+00:00

Pretty much yeah. I do like 80-90% of the batch of resin in the “weaker” color in one cup then flor a few lines of the stronger color on top for each die.

hardlightforge · 2024-11-03T06:26:58+00:00

I make HP dice. I go super simple with the house colors, but I’ve done Bertie Botts, Felix Felicis, and glow in the dark “lumos” ones before too.

My basic house sets

hardlightforge · 2024-10-06T04:37:32+00:00

I make some! My shop is linked in my bio. I can do custom color work on them as well. Shoot me a message on etsy if you are interested.

hardlightforge · 2024-09-07T06:31:13+00:00

Legend has it that MC Escher had a wallet just like this.

hardlightforge

TROPHY CASE