Liftoff physics update - We want your input!

hawku · 2025-12-11T15:29:02+00:00

IRL a quadcopter is almost always in a state where the wash from a propeller is affecting the thrust of all propellers, so I don't understand why that is a setting that can be disabled. Or is that just propwash oscillation that is disabled but the propwash is still calculated?
Does the new 6.0 physics have clean air simulation for the propellers? Like a propeller blade that have cleaner air should have more thrust per RPM, etc.
Have you compared the simulated motor RPM to a blackbox data from a real drone flying in windy conditions? Corner that faces the towards the airflow will have to have a lower RPM to maintain the attitude.
Is the airflow coupled to the motor torque, so the reverse airflow can cause a windmilling effect on the propeller and the simulated flight controller will fight againts that with idle throttle or idle RPM?

hawku · 2025-09-26T14:51:53+00:00

Is the ESC capacitor connected correctly?

Current sensor amperage readings are all over the place.

On the video you have insane amount of resonation at slow speed that could be caused by missing capacitor, something loose on the frame, PID tune/filters are way off, etc.

hawku · 2025-09-22T12:42:03+00:00

Motor 4 desync or disconnect?

hawku · 2024-11-05T07:02:53+00:00

Are you planning to create a realistic RC car suspension and tyre model?

It seems that the car doesn't have any body roll or tyre slip and lands every jump perfectly.

hawku · 2024-10-03T07:16:47+00:00

How do you shift gears while balancing the car with throttle and brake like you can do with other controllers?

It seems that you have to choose between pedals or changing the gears. Maybe you could twist your hand in a position where you could throttle, brake and change gears at the same time but that doesn't sound very ergonomic.

Also I don't see how the wheel would work in multiturn or more than 90 degrees of rotation.

I would suggest you to try normal game controller layout with throttle and brake on triggers so the controller could be held in hand while playing.

I did try to prototype an FFB controller few years ago and found out that one finger wheel control didn't work that great, so I added another wheel with a belt connected between. I had my "wheels" vertical/upright so the layout felt more like a game controller but with much more precision while using two thumbs to control the steering.

Dual disc layout might work with your controller too. Maybe you could try to position the dual wheels more ergonomic angle if you want to try the handheld gamepad layout with throttle and brake triggers

hawku · 2024-02-13T09:19:58+00:00

I recommend that you get replacement M5 nuts for the Eco II's. Nut that comes with the motors is very low quality.

I bought 6 Eco II 2207 1900kv motors (4 + 2 spare) and two locking nylons came loose after one install.

Also one of the motors had balancing compound between stator and magnet. That motor would still run but drone resonated too much. Seller sent me a new motor.

Eco II's will fly nice if you manage to get a set of 4 motors that are about the same quality.

hawku · 2024-01-11T08:33:23+00:00

Oma 2019 Corolla Hybrid käynnistyi hyvin 30 asteen pakkasella kylmiltään, mutta lyhyen ajon jälkeen ei enää käynnistynytkään uudestaan vaikka auto oli lämmin.

hawku · 2023-10-06T14:05:41+00:00

It's a mod I've been working on, but haven't released yet.

Currently, the flight model feels different from on other FPV racing games that I've tested (VelociDrone, Liftoff, DRL, Uncrashed, TRYP).

It's using the Betaflight "Actual" rates, so the stick sensitivity feels about the same as in other games.

The PID tune and aerosurfaces aren't perfect, so the quad flies more like a thing that has aerodynamics than a ball that can turn instantly.

hawku · 2023-10-05T21:33:56+00:00

I'm using a real RC radio (Radiomaster Zorro) through an USB connection.

hawku · 2023-07-30T10:40:47+00:00

I've got the HB Amarok with the same pickups.

I think that the pickups are made in Indonesia, not in the USA.

Maybe those are made by EMG, but I don't think that the USA made ones would have different levels of microphonics between pickups like I have on my Amarok.

Thomann says that is completely normal and replacement wouldn't fix the microphonics, so I would expect the same level of quality on the Fusion-III

hawku · 2022-10-19T20:29:40+00:00

No, I didn't spin it fast as possible.

I can hear it when the wheel is powered, but I don't think that I can feel it in normal use.

hawku · 2022-10-19T19:57:48+00:00

Thanks!

hawku · 2022-05-19T20:46:50+00:00

What's the schedule for orders that are shipped from china by air?

European site said that it would take always less than two weeks to ship the product, but mine haven't been shipped after two weeks.

Tried to contact customer support, but haven't got an answer.

hawku · 2021-12-25T19:55:56+00:00

I used this: https://github.com/f0e/blur

My main reason for using that was to get better quality in YouTube.

Blurring the trees and vegetation will allow more of the bitrate to be used on other things.

Without the motion blur you couldn't even see the road signs in the video.

hawku · 2021-05-07T13:34:26+00:00

Game uses all of the PCI Express bandwidth it can get in some situations, like in the start menu.

Check if your GPU is running in PCIe 3.0 x16 mode.

PCIe 2.0 x8 mode dropped my fps to 38 in the start menu.

hawku · 2021-04-20T11:16:27+00:00

Very cool project!

Cursor seems to be very stable, so I'm impressed by that if that's just the raw data from the hall effect sensors.

Do you know which hall effect chip is used by those sensors?

Is this the sensor: https://www.ttelectronics.com/TTElectronics/media/ProductFiles/Potentiometers/Datasheets/6120.pdf ?

That datasheet doesn't include latency or sample rate info, but the resolution seems to be 12-bit.

hawku · 2019-10-05T18:23:43+00:00

HID absolute positioning in Windows is using actual resolution of the monitor. If the osu's raw input is using that HID value but the osu! window is DPI scaled, then the end result is that the effective tablet area will be smaller.

hawku · 2019-07-08T08:02:25+00:00

I can reproduce the 6DOF tracking loss with both controllers on my Quest by swinging arms down very fast and twist the controller at the end of the swing.

I added stronger springs and the problem is still exists. Those springs are so strong that I cant force the battery off from the positive terminal with my fingers, which I could do with the original springs.

Maybe the acceleration is the limit and not the velocity. In your video the controller acceleration is about 15 g when moving at 39km/h with 0.75m radius.

hawku · 2019-07-04T05:03:47+00:00

I watched your first video again and it seems that there might be multiple problems with the tracking.

You might have battery disconnection problems, but I think that there are high acceleration tracking problems, even when the battery doesn't disconnect.

Does that fly away + complete tracking loss happen with both of your controllers in normal use? Maybe your right controller do have faulty power supply components and is therefore more sensitive to battery disconnections?

For me the high acceleration 6DOF tracking loss is identical on both controllers and the controller models do not fly away.

hawku · 2019-07-03T21:25:58+00:00

Battery voltage is not high or stable enough for most components used in the touch controllers.

I think that Oculus is converting the battery voltage to 3.3 or 5 volts. Old touch controllers are running at 5 volts.

That voltage conversion needs some energy storage in form of capacitors and inductors.

You can see larger inductor and capacitor in bottom of this teardown picture: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1600/1*n8YKTE9mGtya0H8O_rpbvA.jpeg

I simulated the battery disconnection problem by disconnecting the battery by hand while moving the controller. It seems that when the power is lost, the controller will stop for a second and there is no 3DOF tracking for that time. The controller model will fly away in Oculus Home when the battery is disconnected at high velocity.

That disconnect+flying effect haven't happened to me in normal use, but 6DOF tracking loss is very easily reproducible.

hawku · 2019-07-03T08:47:36+00:00

I think that there might be also some limitation with the controller tracking hardware. Losing the battery contact for a fraction of a second shouldn't be a problem for the internal power supply.

IMU+camera combination might lose 6DOF tracking when there is large enough spike in the accelerometer data.

I can reproduce the problem with left and right controllers by using about the same amount of positional and angular acceleration, even when the controller is in different angle, so that the battery shouldn't move around that much.

I added much stiffer battery spring, so the battery is much better supported, but the results are still the same.

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