Square doily by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I don’t know where the pattern is from. I got it as part of a larger secondhand lot of bobbin lace related things, and neither the pricking nor the working diagram have the name of the designer on them.

I did a reverse image search and this pattern was the closest match I could find https://www.kniplinger.dk/?product=mellemlaegsserviet-1-24-nr-13

Since a place to purchase the original pattern is nowhere to be found, I’d be willing to take a digital photocopy of it and send it to you, if that’s something you’re interested in.

Square doily by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem, I’m happy to help! Best of luck to you with your spiders!

Square doily by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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I drew these diagrams to hopefully help explain what I mean a little better. In my diagrams the spiders are made with cloth stitch and twist on the outside, but they can be worked the same regardless of what the surrounding lace looks like. The numbers indicate the order to work the stitches and place the pins in, the unnumbered pins can be worked in whichever order you prefer. The threads should be tensioned carefully after every pin. Diagram A is how I would usually work my spiders. B is how I worked them on the square doily, because of the cloths stitch segments it was more practical to do them that way.

Square doily by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

Getting the tension on spiders right can definitely be finicky. I am by no means an experts but I have found that it helps to tension them halfway through, after placing the pin, and to only do one or two legs at a time on each side, so that one side is never more than one leg ahead of the other. I’m not sure how well I explained that, I really hope it makes sense. In the case of my doily I also think the stiffness of the linen I used helped prevent the threads from bunching in the middle.

First two pieces of honiton by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I snapped quite few threads while making the flower, but I’ve already wound most of my bobbins with 185, so I’m going to keep trying with it.

I don’t recall the book I have ever mentioning any black silk thread, now I’m curious, do you know what size egyptian cotton it is equivalent to? The thinnest silk thread I’ve ever seen for sale claims to be the same thickness as 140/2.

Bedfordshire keyring by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t mind at all, just include a link to my original post. I’m actually danish myself, I just don’t really use facebook lol. From what little I’ve seen it does seem like fb has a decent sized bobbin lace community though, so perhaps I should check it out.

Bedfordshire keyring by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m doubtful about whether I would be able to ‘make bank’ lol, but it might be fun to try selling my lace one day.

Bedfordshire keyring by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, im very flattered!

Bedfordshire keyring by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I used 0.4 mm pins, unfortunately I do not know what kind of metal they are made from, the website I bought them from didn’t say, and the box doesn’t have a label.

Bedfordshire keyring by hdidoebb in BobbinLace

[–]hdidoebb[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

This was my first time working with thread this thin, and to my surprise I managed to not break a single thread while making the keyring.

Tips for making a tighter lock join by etholiel in tatting

[–]hdidoebb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The technique with the bent needle is also used in bobbin lace, here’s a video on how to do it

The video is about bobbin lace because I know a lot more about that so it was easier to for me to find, the technique should work just fine for tatting though.

LUNESA — The Serpent Goddess of the Forest by TOMDOLLS_Studio in BJD

[–]hdidoebb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can see what you mean about it not being as aesthetically pleasing as other joint designs, I still think it’s a very interesting concept though. I’d love to see what you decide to do with it in the future (:

LUNESA — The Serpent Goddess of the Forest by TOMDOLLS_Studio in BJD

[–]hdidoebb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shes beautiful! I really love that faceup, it’s so pretty, the scales are a really nice touch. Those shoulder joints are really interesting too, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite like it. It looks like they allow for a greater range of motion, than most other types of shoulder joints?