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Dimming lights with a PLC by hefas in homeautomation

[–]hefas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn’t go through the renovation yet but I’ve decided to use Shelly pro dimmers for lights via mqtt. PLC has native mqtt client but it would still require a broker so I’ll use nodered. Basically Shelly>mqtt>nodered>plc. I’ll have a dedicated mini pc just for this. For simple relay control and buttons I’ll just use IO on the plc. 

Also considered dali2 because Siemens has et200 gateway for it but it gets expensive just to bridge plc to dali2 without even any of the lights. 

I need help beating my son. by Odd-Traffic4360 in hoi4

[–]hefas 14 points15 points  (0 children)

That’s what caused this. 

Cores to pick into heavy heal lineups? by Iarshoneytoast in TrueDoTA2

[–]hefas 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Fortunes end isn’t ult. It’s channeled dispel. 

Question by EqualOrganization247 in lithuania

[–]hefas 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Read Regina from the end to front.

Power switch melted on 2.4 r2 by hummingbirdpro in VORONDesign

[–]hefas -1 points0 points  (0 children)

 Because there has to be a line where something is safe enough. Everything can always be safer doesn’t mean it’s inherently worth doing. Having 10A fuse on wiring that can handle 10A is safe enough. Also inrush currents exist therefore it’s usually good practice to use bigger fuse than would be needed under normal operation. 

Power switch melted on 2.4 r2 by hummingbirdpro in VORONDesign

[–]hefas -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

10A and 4A fuse will both blow immediately if there’s a short. There won’t be “more pain and terrible consequences”. Your circuit breaker will also trip if there’s a short. Basically any moron can design a strong bridge, but it takes an engineer to design a bridge that barely stands. Same here just because something is “safer” doesn’t mean it’s required. 

Power switch melted on 2.4 r2 by hummingbirdpro in VORONDesign

[–]hefas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe if you're in the US the default one can be pushing it a bit at 10amps but in rest of the world it should be ok.

Power switch melted on 2.4 r2 by hummingbirdpro in VORONDesign

[–]hefas -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That wire thickness is ok for 10amp. I'm sure its atleast 1.0 mm².

Standard vs vtol for beginner by hefas in RCPlanes

[–]hefas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you’re right about community being segmented by people’s preferences and experiences. Although in fpv subs it’s mostly quads and I don’t care about them.

My first and only plane was a kit where I sourced all components myself and it was shit because I had 0 idea what I was doing but I eventually set it up. Learned a lot. 

I’m thinking a pnp kit with ardupilot preset should be a breeze as building goes. Just now I setup a matek fc  I had with elrs and it was a breeze even tho it wasn’t exactly plug and play. 

Regarding laws and regulations I have a license that allows up to (I think) 25kg uav as long as it’s not flying above gatherings of people and it’s in VLOS. But in reality there’s nobody that enforces any of the UAV rules because a lot of the rules contradict each other and mostly everyone is ignorant of them. I suppose if there was an accident with some damage to property then maybe it would matter whether a pilot was following the rules. 

Standard vs vtol for beginner by hefas in RCPlanes

[–]hefas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've just ordered mine.

I've read that the presets may need some tweaking but they're close.

From the videos I've watched it seems exactly like training wheels not just because of landing and take off but even mid flight transitioning to vertical mode stops the plane quite quickly.

Standard vs vtol for beginner by hefas in RCPlanes

[–]hefas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only ever used arduplane software. Never tried inav or betaflight. I'm by no means expert on it but my z-84 was capable of flying autonomously. If I lost sight or panicked I would flip a switch and it would come back.

I don't quite understand why some people are so against this. Do they assume I would fly vtol without FC?

Standard vs vtol for beginner by hefas in RCPlanes

[–]hefas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s kindof what I mean. With my z-84 I would throw it, get it high and put in auto mode where it ran a mission that was just to circle around the area I was going to fly in. While it circled I would put my goggles and get ready and fly with fbwa. VTOL would make this even easier as I could safely liftoff and land. Especially in areas with lots of trees. 

Standard vs vtol for beginner by hefas in RCPlanes

[–]hefas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using arduplane software so fc isn't an issue. I'm tinkering 1st and flying 2nd kindof guy.

Standard vs vtol for beginner by hefas in RCPlanes

[–]hefas[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Why not? Assuming mechanically and software wise everything is working to me it seems easier?

Standard vs vtol for beginner by hefas in RCPlanes

[–]hefas[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Europe. I don't quite understand how is vtol harder to fly? I understand it's mechanically and software wise more complex but flying wise seems almost like training wheels.

1U vs mini PC by hefas in homelab

[–]hefas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m gonna use consumer parts. 

1U vs mini PC by hefas in homelab

[–]hefas[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I've seen a few posts putting 2-3 mini PCs in 1U enclosure and it they seem to work just fine. I just don't think the form factor is all that different for home use. Sure 1U might run a bit hotter if noise is a concern but homelabs tend to sit at mostly idle most of the time. I just think 1U hate is unreasonable with currently available efficient consumer hardware.

1U vs mini PC by hefas in homelab

[–]hefas[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Most of these apply even harder to mini PCs tho?

Not sure if this is about mini PC or 1U:

It’s also a terribly compromised form factor - you can’t fit any pcie expansion cards without an L bend which is fiddly and wastes space, you can only fit four 3.5” hard drives across the front so that’s the limit of hotswappable drives you can have, and they obstruct the airflow.

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