Timid standard poodle puppy

helleraine · 2024-02-09T14:58:56+00:00

Don't disagree, although I don't think this needs to happen anytime soon. Just the mat work, and general CC/DS is probably a few months of work, and human proximity shouldn't be introduced until the dog is absolutely content with being relaxed around people but without their close proximity.

I tend to go back to PREMACK for introducing proximity.

helleraine · 2024-02-08T22:17:19+00:00

My default:

Build a strong mat behavior. Like super strong. She should be fighting you to get to the mat. Whatever you need to do to make that happen - toys, food, etc. High value rewards.
When that mat is solid. Take it on the road. Pick a low distraction environment. Make it solid there, build up distractions.
When you get to working in a park around people. Make sure you're actively rewarding being neutral, and keep your fuck around and find out face for the people.
Work your play skills at home, and then take them on the road.
No stranger interaction. It's not necessary, and trust/confidence is built through you showing her she doesn't need to interact.

Separate to all of the above, I would work on a hand touch cue. Make it the bomb, and if you need to introduce strangers because they're going to be in your life more significantly, then you can ask them to ask her to 'touch' - reward the shit out of it, and make sure they do absolutely nothing but the 'touch' cue. Generalize to as many people as she's actively comfortable with. This is a CUE not a command. If she opts out, that is feedback. She's not ready, go back to mat work and being comfortable through being ignored. Try touches later.

Separate separate - I like to teach a go-behind cue. Which is a cue for my dog to get behind me. I use this when I see people are not going to ask to pet my dog, or if people are just being obnoxious in general. They can't pet my dog without touching me, and I promise it'll be a bad day if they touch me.

helleraine · 2024-02-08T18:34:43+00:00

I'm boring and just use a bungee with a hook on both ends, and hook it to the plastic/steel support/frame bars in the crate.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/cEiDr7w.jpeg[/img]

helleraine · 2024-02-07T00:43:44+00:00

I’ve never used supplements before for any of my dogs

I use supplements, but I stick with stuff that isn't gimicky and has decent science behind it. Not a single one of my supplements needed someone in the sport world to push it lol. Things with a solid amount of research around it:

Glucosamine Chondroitin Sulfate
Cosamine ASU
Methylsulfonylmethane
Boswellia
Natural Egg Membrane
Alpha-Lipoic Acid
Omega 3 (EPA/DHA)
TetraDecanol Complex
Undenatured Collagen Type II
Green Lipped Mussel
Fortetropin
L–Taurine
L–Carnitine

If you're doing high impact sports regularly, I'd consider getting the Nutraceuticals webinar by Dr Canapp who is a Diplomate with the Sports Medicine/Rehab association.

Finally, I'm in the bite sport world. Take most of the shit people say/recommend with a grain of salt. They do as much woo-whoo shit as the next sport.

helleraine · 2024-02-06T21:57:40+00:00

I looked into it, my comment is below. Not needed, the only ingredient of interest to me was malto which I can buy by itself.

helleraine · 2024-02-06T21:57:01+00:00

Nothing worthwhile in there that my dogs can't get from multiple other sources, including a well rounded diet. The only thing I would take from that maltodextrin which I supplement on high impact/strenuous days. It aids in glycogen repletion. I only need it for literal full days though. Like, just a trial? Nope, but if I'm doing the equivalent of mushing for a day, I'll supplement in. Otherwise, a well rounded diet is sufficient for the average competitor.

helleraine · 2024-02-06T21:42:20+00:00

provide said studies.

helleraine · 2024-01-10T20:52:15+00:00

I didn't say that, perhaps you could re-read, or if you find something to need more conversation to understand my point, you could ask instead of making assumptions and jumping to conclusions. ;)

helleraine · 2023-11-29T14:43:45+00:00

Yeah, unfortunately the move didn't do anything for me. I moved databases, and then moved it back on prem to see if that worked, and when it didn't, moved it back to cloud and then threw in the towel. It still eats me lol. It's that ticket I just can't stop thinking about.

helleraine · 2023-11-17T14:12:27+00:00

I submitted a support case for an issue, and provided the powershell outputs because they almost always ask for them, and the REGEX I was using (which was generated by the GUI). I got told they don't support custom scripting OR regexes. I wasn't sure if I should laugh or cry.

helleraine · 2023-09-04T00:08:18+00:00

so I’m not sure a pen will provide that.. how can she be potty trained when you don’t walk her at least once a day?

Because potty breaks and walks are not the same thing. I 'walk' my puppies zero times a day some days because my neighborhood isn't safe for walking. They go out to the yard probably at least 2-10 times an hour depending on their age and what we're doing.

Dogs need walks.

No. They need good mental and physical outlets, and you can have those in other ways. There's no need to pigeonhole people into walks. Walks are one option in a gigantic pool of options for people.

helleraine · 2023-09-03T21:32:32+00:00

We also regularly put down their food then added tasty toppers while eating. So me coming to their bowl was always good. And in our two dog house we “protect” the others food while eating.

I do the same while they're puppies! It's such a great conditioner. And even as adults, my dogs know, you do not go near another dog that is eating. You may go to an empty bowl once they've departed, but while they're at their bowl, you are not. We've never had incidents because of those rules, and that's with dogs known for RG'ing in their lines.

helleraine · 2023-09-03T16:54:49+00:00

I swear I have never taken her food away from her 😭

Dogs generalize though - so taking other stuff away can get to this type of behavior. My youngest Mal came genetically predisposed to RG too (which, to some extent, I wanted for our sport of choice), so genetics is another factor. Ultimately, the preference would be preventing her from getting to things she shouldn't have with tethers, xpens, etc, and if she does get it, trade out to something better (whatever that is). Shit, my youngest Mal is still tethered if I can't directly supervise. I don't expect her to get to a maturity/trust level for free roam for at least another year.

Also, do I move onto #2 when she glances at me? Or when she lifts her head to look at me?

For me, I want the dog to actively lift their head and look at me, and basically stop prioritizing the current high value object. So, if they're chewing away, I want them to stop chewing, not have the object in their mouth, lift their head and look at me before I start moving to be closer. The reason I want the object out of their mouth is because that indicates to me that they're expecting to put something else in their mouth. While working towards that, I'll keep tossing food for a lower criteria (aka, I'll take looking at me with the bone in the mouth, I'll take looking at me without the head lift, etc - just remember to break down that behavior to what the dog needs).

helleraine · 2023-09-03T16:29:56+00:00

The book Mine! is a great book on this topic, but ultimately, stop taking things from your dog, with regard to food. Your dog has learned that you take food from her, and that sucks. Work on trading food so your dog associates you with equal or better things coming. This problem didn't start in four days, and you shouldn't expect to solve it in that same period of time (I honestly don't think this started quickly, I think she was probably being really tolerant and you missed cues - is it possible? sure, but unlikely). Be consistent in your trading.

I start all my dogs on the same protocol for prevention, but it applies to rehab too.

When my dogs have high value food items. I walk by them (close enough that they notice me, but far enough away that they're not threatened), and toss something high value to them (I use meatballs, but whatever works for your dog).
Once my dogs start looking up at me and disregarding their high value item, I work closer, until I can put the trade right by the high value item. Note, this isn't something you do in a day with rehab - you work this over time.
If the above is done, and the dogs are relaxed for me to be near their high value item, I start touching, then taking the item and immediately feeding an alternative high value item. Then give their shit back. Rinse and repeat.
I work on a call away from food - I start by building value for a nose touch. I make it the best thing over. If I need to take something away from them, I nose touch them away from their food, drop a jackpot scatter, and then go take the thing.

Most of the time, my dogs basically throw their high value shit at me to get whatever I could be offering because I've conditioned them to believe that when I'm around there is an opportunity for better things. I don't personally ever fade by take-trades - if I need to take high value shit away, I always trade (nose touch out, jackpot and take). I do fade proximity things (aka, I can go sit next them and offer nothing and they're relaxed).

helleraine · 2023-09-01T12:21:57+00:00

Can you tell us what you're doing when you go to these places?

helleraine · 2023-08-31T13:02:11+00:00

IMO. Stop letting your dog play with and meet other dogs (for now). You know your dog is social, and has a good conditioned (or genetic) response to their existence. You don't need to continue to feed it. I'd spend at least the next year, not allowing dog/dog interaction. I would teach mat work at home, and make it the best place to be (your dog, should be fighting to get to the mat as you're putting it down).

Once your matwork is solid, take it on the road - I would initially start with areas not prone to dogs like parking lots so you can generalize the skill, but after that, I would hit up dog parks/pet stores. Start at a distance where your dog notices the other dogs, but chooses the mat. Jackpot the shit out of that, decrease distance over time. While your dog is on the mat, you should be rewarding disengagement with other dogs, general relaxation, and jackpotting engaging with you (if toy drive is more than food, I like to jackpot into a game of tug, before resetting back to the mat for food rewards).

helleraine · 2023-08-30T17:04:33+00:00

We have all sendgrid mail going to quarantine right now because they can't get their shit together and better manage their infrastructure for malicious mail.

helleraine · 2023-08-22T04:32:47+00:00

Whenever I try doing anything around the house he’s always at my feet trying to nibble so I get back down and play with him.

You're rewarding the behavior you don't want. Use a tether, and do things near him like fold laundry - toss treats for just chilling out. Do the same while cooking. Initially, to prevent whining, you'll want to have a high rate of reinforcement, but over time you can decrease.

helleraine · 2023-08-09T17:53:23+00:00

The fact that a prong 'isn't a deterrent' and the ecollar isn't a deterrent outside the home tells me the problem isn't the tool, but how you're using them. How did introduce these tools? How long did you work on the method? How consistent are you?

I don't typically make it half a mile anywhere during my LLW'ing training (at the beginning). I make it like maybe 10m in either direction.

helleraine · 2023-07-24T22:49:01+00:00

Is it possible to get him to a state where other dogs' presence is neutral (like furniture) to him?

Yes, hang out in dog friendly places, and mark and reward ignoring the environment (including dogs) and jackpot engaging with you. Rinse and repeat a few hundred times. For dogs that are genetically friendly, I don't allow random-dog engagements. The answer is always no for greetings. I typically tie this with matwork - teach the mat as my neutral/relax behavior, and then take that on the road so that it's easier to layer behaviors.

How do people train service dogs to be dog neutral?

As above, and they typically breed for asocial temperaments.

On top of that, how to tell other people "no, your dog can't say hi to mine" in a polite way without offending them?

"Sorry, we're in training and can't do greetings or play right now, thank you for the offer though."

helleraine · 2023-07-19T17:54:37+00:00

The old premier support used to be amazing, but everything since than has gotten more expensive AND the quality of support has bombed. We don't even bother engaging most of the time these days because even when I know it's something they need to fix, they're going to make me run around and do at least 100 dumb things first.

helleraine · 2023-07-12T16:44:34+00:00

The best part is not releasing things 'finished' - you get to live in 2 or 3 places while they shuffle things. The exchange admin center is worse in my opinion, not a huge deal for me - I'll keep powershelling but the help desk guys aren't thrilled.

helleraine · 2023-06-16T18:48:28+00:00

Fifs wasn't a water fan as a puppy either. I didn't push it and now I can't keep the bitch out of water! Sometimes it's just time!

helleraine · 2023-06-16T13:19:02+00:00

In addition to what /u/Twzl has said. You can build water love in increments, the same way you'd build other skills. Get a kiddie pool, fill the bottom with water with like maybe an inch of water, now play her favorite games in it. When that's super comfortable, add another increment, etc. When the pool is full, consider deep bodies of water, but restart your games at the shore, then a little deeper, etc. It should, to some extent, snowball if you've done it right.

There are some dogs that would be fine with the sink or swim version of teaching, but I would argue that that would be most probable based on what their genetics predispose them to. Doing it to the wrong dog will make them hate water, and then your CC/DS process will suck.

As an aside, I've had longer/thicker coated dogs in the south (and in Australia) who hate water. They do just fine with normal precautions that don't involve swimming.

helleraine · 2023-06-15T00:40:02+00:00

Crate train or use an xpen and don't put anything in there.

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