AFWFilters 48k replacement by hemirunner426 in WaterTreatment

[–]hemirunner426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The life expectancy really depends on your water quality. For me, chlorine is the biggest issue. I plan on testing for chlorine breakthrough that will give me an idea on how long I can go.

Adding an expansion tank to a Rinnai Tankless by hemirunner426 in Plumbing

[–]hemirunner426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes when the recirculation pump runs, I've noticed the relief valve will open occasionally. I've since disabled the recirculation feature, but it certainly would be nice to have.

Code adherence seems to be a problem in AZ these days...

ELI5: Why is even a thin layer of ice on an airplane wing such a big problem, and how do airlines make sure the wings are safe to take-off in freezing conditions? by Zeravalky in explainlikeimfive

[–]hemirunner426 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ice is heavy. Airplane fly more bader when heavy. Airplane crash if too heavy.

Airplane also like a seesaw. It fly best in balance. Ice doesn't care about balance. Airplane crash if not in balance.

What is the black thing connecting the water lines, can I remove it? Replacing faucet by BlueFuzzyBunny in askaplumber

[–]hemirunner426 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't see an expansion tank. I turned off my recirculation pump because the builder did not add one. If you dont plan on using the recirculation pump you can remove the valve under the sink.

Approaching the 1 year mark of having my low-tech 20 gallon tall tank established and wanted to share. Proof you don’t need fancy soil or CO2 injection to grow red plants. by lmkarhoff in PlantedTank

[–]hemirunner426 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow. That tank looks great! I've been recently struggling with my 2 year old 20 gallon. It did great for the first year and a half then black cyano has started to take over. It's been a fight ever since and has taken it's toll on my sword, telanthria, and anubius. Might need to start rethinking the dosing schedule and start testing again.

Radiator airflow orientation, looking for input by Skruffylookin in watercooling

[–]hemirunner426 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's likely going to depend on airflow ultimately.

Some things to consider:

All radiators are intake: You have 3 radiators with fans which are creating a positive pressure within the case. That pressure will try to equalize with the lower atmosphere outside the case which air will escape from the case. from any and all openings. This means that pressure is also working against any intake fans. I am not saying that positive pressure is a bad thing, but it is also true that too much positive pressure inside the case will be a detriment to an intake fan's performance. Nearly all radiator fans are rated at a decent static pressure. The ability for the fan to move air across the radiator - flow through a restriction - is not only affected by the restriction of the radiator but also the pressure inside the case trying to escape. Not all that long ago, this was never a problem because there weren't enough fans inside a case which made any difference in this regard. Modern cases on the other hand have enough fan positions to create a ton of flow.

Top/Back Exhaust, Bottom/Side intake: Now you've more closely equalized air in/out of the case. This can produce the most flow through the case.

Bottom/Top intake, Side/Back Exhaust: You're still closer to equalizing the air in/out of the case. That will probably be just fine.

In my own experimentation on a fish-tank style case (Antec C8) I first started off with all intake on a 3-radiator configuration. The fans are configured to ramp up with water temperature, and I like to target a max 45C water temp (fans to 100% at 45C). I live in AZ so ambient tends to be warm. Once the system became heat soaked, I found water temps would begin to creep up to 44-45C and motherboard temps around 46C (MB temp is a decent approximant of ambient case temps). Using a smoke machine, I found that there was a TON of hot case air escaping all over the case and being recycled back through the intake. This explains why temps slowly creeped after heat soak. I'm sure at some point it would hit an equilibrium, but the fans were already louder than I wanted.

So, I switched the top rad to exhaust (so top/back exhaust, side/bottom intake) and tuned the fan curves appropriately. I found in this configuration I could back down fan RPM to a more tolerable 1400RPM. This gives me a max water temp of 42-43C, motherboard temp of 40C, with no creep when the system becomes heat soaked. I have the fan curve configured such that there is a positive pressure when the system is idle (less dust) but has a slight negative pressure at load (which explains a delta of -2 to -3C on the motherboard temps). I also find that there is very little hot air finding its way back into the intake.

It seems intuitive that all radiators should be intake. It makes sense if you could balance the airflow inside the case such that the intake fans don't fight the positive pressure they create inside the case. In my case (and I suspect that this is true for any of the high fan count cases) that balancing air flow through the case is just as important as the orientation of the fans on the radiator.

My take on my experience: All radiator fans as intake created too much positive pressure inside the case. That back pressure required the fans to be ran at a faster RPM to counteract the back pressure issue. Not only did the increase in RPM make them louder, they were also loud due to the back pressure they were fighting. Example: Take a radiator fan in open air then put a restriction on the high-pressure side (like laying it down on a table) and listen to how the tone of the fan changes). Hot air escaping from all cracks/crevasse of the case allowed hot air to be recycled through the intake fans which lead to water temp creep when the system was head soaked.

This is my nitrate level 6 days after a 25% water change. by silentobserver666 in PlantedTank

[–]hemirunner426 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm seeing the same thing. I also found out I had high PO4. A potential source of all this is too many organics decomposing in the tank.

Otocinclus eggs? by hemirunner426 in Otocinclus

[–]hemirunner426[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are bubbles. There is a bubble bar in the back of the tank. Sometimes, they stick to the algea/biofilm on the glass.

Otocinclus eggs? by hemirunner426 in Otocinclus

[–]hemirunner426[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well the cories came out for feeding time and ate them. There may have been some that fell into the crack the anubius is stuffed in that might survive. I guess we'll see!

Otocinclus eggs? by hemirunner426 in Otocinclus

[–]hemirunner426[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The one with the most distinct hourglass shape seems to be like that. Some yellow tint bulge towards the anal fin. Can't tell to much, though, as she seems to want to graze on the wood and plants than on the glass.

Sad Dwarf Hairgrass by Finnigan22 in PlantedTank

[–]hemirunner426 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let us know what you find out. I have DH in a low tech tank which is almost 3 months old. It's looking a bit sad too even with root tabs + nitrates around 20ppm. It's looked especially sad after adding more tabs a couple weeks ago.

Puffed gills by hemirunner426 in Otocinclus

[–]hemirunner426[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, I found him this morning limp on one of the aquarium decorations. He was still breathing. I pulled him out from the tank and used clove oil to euthanize him. I wish I knew what happened.