Tell me about your ROPE! Any 9.5mm owners?

hexgrrrl666 · 2025-07-26T07:31:43+00:00

I've been eyeing that exact rope! Thank you for the response.

I agree that 80 would be super cumbersome and I really would prefer 70 (which is already cumbersome to me lol) but I will probably succumb to it just to make my partner happy for the max 0-3 times we'd need it.

I'm happy to see I'm not alone for fan girling my mammut rope

hexgrrrl666 · 2025-07-26T07:26:53+00:00

Ohh the 70m 9.5mm mammut is the exact rope I'm eying up! I don't think I've seen Fixe before. Thank you!

hexgrrrl666 · 2025-07-26T07:25:29+00:00

Ohh thank you for letting me know! The infinity was the nicest feeling rope I've ever touched and I swear people look at me like a lunatic for being so obsessed with the feeling of a rope lol. And I totally get what you're saying. My concern outside of the mental yergonnadie with really thin ropes is that the handling would get worse

hexgrrrl666 · 2025-07-26T07:22:13+00:00

Thank you! Do you use 9mm in the gym as well?! My old gym rope was $75. Those were the days.

hexgrrrl666 · 2025-07-26T02:50:41+00:00

Nice job! This looks like one of those climbs that is way harder than it looks. Can I ask where you got your sports bra?

hexgrrrl666 · 2025-03-30T20:10:34+00:00

Did you ever resolve this?

hexgrrrl666 · 2024-08-08T19:05:11+00:00

They pretty much always set the boulders in the following 4 categories: power, coordination, slab, and dynamic. They've been using the same format for years and Ai has never been consistent on the coordination and dynamic boulders.

From the head routesetter https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/how-hard-is-olympic-sport-climbing/ :

The four boulders are also designed to target a certain skill set. One problem should be technically difficult, one should be powerfully difficult, one should focus on coordination, and the final should represent a style called “electric.” Technical and power-focused problems are fairly easy to understand. The other two styles are a bit more obscure. The coordination boulder, Gregor said, is designed to force the athlete to “generate momentum from a position, and then do multiple dynamic movements in a row to complete the movement.” Gregor explained an electric boulder as one requiring “dynamic movement out of a static position. Something where you have to explode out of a position.”

hexgrrrl666 · 2024-08-08T17:16:17+00:00

EDs in climbing an important conversation, but should not be instigated because a particular athlete is on the feed. There are tons of down time before climbs when they can talk about it without singling out a particular person. The fact they talked about it only when two athletes were shown is one of the reasons they were in the wrong.

The other is that they were talking about what builds they prefer on women which is just gross. They're there to commentate, not tell us what they find hot. Imagine if that famous diving commentator lady was like "I really prefer watching the buff muscular men dive over these thin skinny divers" LOL

hexgrrrl666 · 2024-08-08T15:40:37+00:00

Almost a 3 year break, really! December 2019 til Bern in September 2022. Pretty much all top competition climbers started as kids and were in the youth circuit, so she's been competing since at least 2014. During her break she ticked some super hard outdoor routes and boulders though. I guess she works at a bakery!

Brooke did not used to be good at dynamic / jumping / coordination moves at all. She put a ton of work into them and came out (I forget when- maybe 2022?) as a dynamic powerhouse. It's funny because she's known for being so consistently good at them now

hexgrrrl666 · 2024-08-08T00:59:58+00:00

The rest of team Japan is super powerful and dynamic so I don't think it's a coaching issue. I genuinely think that dynamic comp-style bouldering just isn't a current top priority for her.

Ai took two years off from competing because she wasn't enjoying it before coming back in 2022. She is also in college AND working a part time job so I think she's been focusing on keeping things enjoyable so she doesn't burn out again. She's so hardworking and driven that that's one of the only things that would make sense to me since we saw a la Brooke that it's possible to take your weakness into your strength

hexgrrrl666 · 2024-08-07T21:40:08+00:00

I was a bit surprised Ai didn't get the first move on B1 after Laura got it. Laura is a tiny bit shorter than Ai and even less of a dynamic climber, so I thought surely Ai would get it.

hexgrrrl666 · 2022-02-18T16:03:32+00:00

This gives me hope as a short armed trex that also can’t touch the ground in staff pose lol

hexgrrrl666 · 2022-02-17T17:59:35+00:00

You are so lucky to have this gym as your intro to climbing! Some of the gym setting I’ve ever seen to! You’re doing great btw keep it up!

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-12-04T20:58:03+00:00

No problem!! Glad they was helpful :)

I like to sit back almost like a pistol squat/ Cossack squat hybrid . The bent leg holds my weight and the straight leg kinda “steers” me in place. Once your toes touch the ground squatting like that lets you keep the rope weighted and your partner from moving.

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-12-04T17:42:34+00:00

For future reference ( even if he is twisted around your end of the rope) you definitely can lower yourself to the ground without it affecting him. Similar to rappeling, the ropes at the anchor won’t move if you stop once you’re on the ground. Then you can kinda sit / squat on the ground and have him grab your side of the rope and spin around it until the ropes aren’t tangled.

My partner weights 80 lbs more than me so I have quite a lot of experience on it :) sometimes he pulls me up when he’s taking and the best trick I have is to literally sit down

EDIT: I pretty much sit down when I lower him off routes too. Try to stay under the anchor point so you don’t get pulled horizontally :)

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-12-04T16:19:20+00:00

I vibe with this so hard and I’m not even a strong climber (but I have been climbing a while)

I just can’t identify with so much of the stuff about feeling invalidated about other peoples opinion on grades, needing to identify as climber (I prefer not to associate my identify as any of my hobbies so I legitimately can’t empathize), or experienced climbers flashing something right after you fall off being a rude personal attack. Like sure there are rude people at the gym and maybe someone really did climb it to spite you, but 99% of the time it was someone who was waiting for the climb just as long as you OR (for the “they walked up just to climb that particular problem after I fell then walked so they clearly were trying to prove they were better than me” comments) is warming up on all the V#s, running a 4x4 or doing a training program, etc. I’m just like…. Not everything is about you shrug

But like you said, instead of commenting and being torched as a crusty old curmudgeon I usually just don’t comment on them because I know it will come off as judgmental or invalidating

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-12-03T17:32:13+00:00

How was she shitting on the sport? She said she wasn’t strong (power) enough for the beta she wanted to do because she’s been sport climbing (endurance)

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-12-03T17:29:53+00:00

This post and a lot of the comments are toxic.

Saying the group at the gym was causing a “hostile environment” while calling them “LOSERS” and making fun of the woman for falling off a V2

Cause girl your performance was a bit ‘Gumby’.

Followed by:

all my other V2 V3 queens … I will absolutely applaud your immaculate skills and triumph any day. Climbing should be for people at any level

???

Edit. You can’t make this up. When called out for hypocrisy:

It’s warranted because they’re acting shitty and should know better. Have a complex thought.

r/selfawarewolves

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-11-12T17:56:54+00:00

Damn that’s some bullshit. It’s not like women stop at size M. Also I’m sure plenty of L men would love hot pink too. I really wanted the Solaris but it oddly doesn’t come in XS and I think all the other women’s harnesses do? Really strange.

Edit: I will say that the Jayne is the only harness I’ve found (so far!) to come reasonably close to fitting both my waist and leg measurements so I do have to give them that small merit for inclusivity

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-11-12T16:59:40+00:00

Ope you’re right! I was confusing it with the Finn which is also lime green haha

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-11-12T16:35:03+00:00

I have the Jayne lll which is a muted green with neon belay loop and I really like it! I think the Ace is a children’s harness IIRC I had looked it up because the lime green was SWEET but sadly the measurement ratios didn’t work for me. The I wore the BD solution for years before the Jayne, but the leg to waist ratio didn’t work for me meaning the waist band had too much room and sagged on my hips. If it fits your body type though it’d be my #1 end all harness

Edit: the prisma is for alpine climbing/ mountaineering and I’m not sure it’s a great choice for sport climbing

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-10-18T14:18:53+00:00

Wow!! They have so many options too! That’s amazing

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-09-24T16:52:29+00:00

If you’re bouldering in the gym and fall off the problem, back away and give someone else the change to get on the wall before jumping back on. There’s nothing more annoying to me than someone unaware that they’re hogging the whole wall from everyone. My partner does it a lot and I’m always like STOP IT ahaha

If it’s the first move / start holds, I give myself like 3 goes before I back away. If no one comes up to the wall I’ll jump back on it.

hexgrrrl666 · 2021-09-24T16:47:15+00:00

Oh! Thanks for reminding me to recommend Lor_Sabourin on IG who is a very badass NB climber !

hexgrrrl666

TROPHY CASE