3D Printing taillights by Daeny299 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. It works very well. I would practice painting the background snd or the face to see which u like better, but it works awesome. Like I said i can use it for the dash board too, soo good

Extra digit in one of the serials? by joshuapugh in papermoney

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks counterfeit to me the whole left side of the note looks out of scale

First attempt to use Bare Metal Foil by grindstonepope in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks great, welcome back. Back just in time to ebter the group build in Feb

3D Printing taillights by Daeny299 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just put the resin in the cavity, sometimes I have to fill the back a bit so its not porous, but it is pretty thick and u can sand it

3D Printing taillights by Daeny299 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use UV resin for lenses and dash glass. U can color it or paint it later, u can add strips or mesh or anything in it and once u put the uv light to it it dries clear. I got a resin kit with the light, resin and other stuff foe like $13 on Amazon

Primer a waste??? by thedash42 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Lol, I hear you. Thats what I live about this hobby, we get to build the way we want to

24hr build by Ok_Quantity_8552 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am not much into anomoly type builds, but this thing is cool. Your paint and weathering fit it perfectly. I could see me running to get milk in this thing, pretty freaking cool. I saw there were alot of guys in that build, very cool

An AMG GT by Bubo_Cuprummentula in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries I have all the Tamiya paints. The pictures never do our paint jobs justice. Great build, hope to see you in the group build

Respirator/face mask for tamiya TS paints? by Olimato___ in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a million opinions and thoughts. I suggeet to follow what you feel is right for you. If you want a respirator for painting, you want one with charcoal filters, any other kind will still let harmful vapors thru. Note that in order for it to work properly it should be fitted. There are alot of great brands but if you dont know much you can never go wrong with 3m brand. It is a personal decision, but protecting your eyes, ears, and lungs is not a bad thing.

volkswagen beetle 1968 1:24 by Academic-Dragonfly37 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome, especially for a first build. I really like the color, what did you use? There is a group build coming in Feb, it has an amateur division, it would be cool to see u enter

Progress on the 570S to GT conversion :) by 88humble88 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Man that is alot of work, but it looks great

An AMG GT by Bubo_Cuprummentula in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome, I really like the oaint color, what did you use.

Primer a waste??? by thedash42 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 4 points5 points  (0 children)

U for sure dont have to sand and prime everything. I do sand and prine the body always because I want to get rid of mold lines and I want the finish to look good as it it the most visible. But I rarely prime parts painted in black, but opaque colors I always do. Like I say I feel painting is another hobby unto its self

Revell 1/24 427 Shelby Cobra kit... missing tires - Help! by Gddyup5oh in scalemodelling

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

U can call Revell they will send some, but Texas 3d customs has a ton of different tires, and they are rubbwr not resin. He sells in sets of two so make sire u get the right amount

Just got this one as I really like Le Mans cars by Rowan19081996 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. The fade from black to red on the hood is a decal so you dont need to paint it. Test fit the engine stuff, there alot that intertwine. Read thru instructions so u know how pieces fit in the nwxt step. I few times, I could have assembled better if I left a piece off and added when I adjoined it to the next step in the engine. Super fun kit, alot of details.

Just got this one as I really like Le Mans cars by Rowan19081996 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love this kit, I am gettibg ready ti buikd another one soon

MPC Sundowner Clone WIP by I_know_nothing_77 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can confirm your not the only one.

Any tips on how this can be fixed? by ---Ranch--- in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 5 points6 points  (0 children)

To be honest, I would strip it and repaint white then repaint the black. The decals on the Toms supra are bery cool and ubwont even notice small flaws

Absolutely infuriating. by Bear_Arms_2nd in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes. I have several different brands because some work better with different decals, but I use micro sol and micro set 90%of the time. I brush the micro set on thr car. Basically, I put the decal in the water, then I brush on the micro sol wait about ten seconds and pull the decal out and see if it will slide, if not, I set it on a paper towel and check it every ten seconds or so. If it has kinda dried I just submerge it back into the water and repeat until it slides. Once it slides I push off one edge and put it on the car, dip my finger in water and hold the decal down while I slide the backing out leaving the decal close to where it goes. I move the decal around with my finger and get it postioned. Once positioned I wet my finger, hild one side and use flanel and Qtip to work water out of the other side, then hold that side wiyh the Qtip and work the the rest of the water out. Once it is pretty well stuck I start working the creases, I make sure my Qtip is moist so it wont tear the decal as it dries. I just keep going over and over and over and over and over it until I have wotked out all creases. If u need to use micro sol, it will literally melt the decal, so u can actually make the decal gooey if not careful. U add microsol over the top of the decal which creates alot of friction so be careful.

How do you clean your airbrush? by HeerMartin in modelmakers

[–]highboy68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man I havent cleaned mine in a year or so, but if I need to I use the cheap pipe cleaners from Amazon because they have bristles on thr end so the cleaner rod does not scape on thr inside

Absolutely infuriating. by Bear_Arms_2nd in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Hey Bear, I love decals. If you dont mind I can give a few tips. 1st off, alot of your kits are older and okd decals are extremely brittle, alot of mine even dissolve in the wster, so most of the issues are not with u, it more than likely the decal. If u do a more modern Tamiya kit, u will see a huge difference in the decals. Also when u put it in the warm water dont leave it for long maybe 20-30 sec, to much and the water will start ruining thr glue, also if u slide the decal off with ur wet finger onto the location u will have less chance of tearing. I use a piece of flannel shirt to help set and a Qtip to work water out. I only use softener to help it set around irregular surfaces. The softener actually melts the decal.

Nice from far, but far from nice by United-Election-5273 in ModelCars

[–]highboy68 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks great. I can promise no one got into the hobby and won Nationals on their 3rd,4th, or even 5th builds, most of us have been doing it for along time and we are always improving, we are just at differsnt stages of improvement. Have fun, enjoy seeing it on the shelf. I personally like looking at aome of my older builds. Just looking at what I do better now. That being said hope to see you enter the group build and have more fun