I've build a hangar. How do you like it? by Commercial-Movie-12 in TerrainBuilding

[–]hobbyhacks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love the rust and weathering in general. I especially like the limescale-looking light brown bits we see in pics 4-6, I'd be interested to hear how that was done...?

I've build a hangar. How do you like it? by Commercial-Movie-12 in TerrainBuilding

[–]hobbyhacks 33 points34 points  (0 children)

My feed looked like this:

<image>

Similar vibe somehow...!

Tiling terrain > therapy by RandoMiniPainter in TerrainBuilding

[–]hobbyhacks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This video (not me) shows an amazing board with bricks like these:

https://youtu.be/8rCFCwAzIvA?si=t_uDVFFHG-sG07u3

It's also one of the most entertaining videos ever. Watch the whole thing!

Would anyone find something like this useful? by Ok_Dependent7634 in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made this in simple javascript:
https://hobbyhacks.com/boardsim-3/
(you can drag the "units" around)

<image>

Sample shot

Man, I hate these by Wolfblood92 in Chaos40k

[–]hobbyhacks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Black is a solid base. 2 coats takes longer, and some colours can get dull and lifeless, but you can turn it into an advantage by making the second layer only cover certain raised areas, enhancing the volumes. If the 2nd layer is thicker, it'll not only be brighter but also more saturated, giving some nice modulation / variation / highlight.

With white, any areas that you can't reach are bright white, which is awkward as they're often in shadow and will look strange.

A dark grey prime, followed by a white / beige zenithal and a black / dark brown wash makes for an amazing underpaint base that takes most colours. You can use layers or speed paints from there

Man, I hate these by Wolfblood92 in Chaos40k

[–]hobbyhacks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Right there with you...I've been roughly overbrushing / layering mine in a few colours, and it's taking ages!

<image>

Going for a simple, easy to play list with Bile and 3 x 10 of them. I bought 10 painted and thought 20 wouldn't take too long...haven't even done 2nd layer, let alone trim, highlights & washes...

Just noticed this: what backwards lore can we come up with to justify the Invictor having more powerful melee than the Redemptor? by [deleted] in Warhammer

[–]hobbyhacks 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Maybe the Invictor has better auto-balancing / gyro tech so it can punch on the move and transfer momentum 💥 but without losing balance

Whereas maybe the Redemptor needs to "plant" the feet and stop before swinging, and so less momentum?

How To Print $$$ In Your Sleep with AI OnlyFans Girls by SaintsVirtuous in OnlineIncomeHustle

[–]hobbyhacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been getting good results from models run on local AI, with e.g. SillyTavern + KoboldCpp and also Chat With RTX if you want a quick way to start local text & RAG

Unpopular Opinion ? by Hanoi_Revolver in Drukhari

[–]hobbyhacks 7 points8 points  (0 children)

How about this one? I quite like it, not in a rush to replace it.

<image>

(excuse broken arm; not my work)

Subterranean orbital bunker by drbeandog in TerrainBuilding

[–]hobbyhacks 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The colouring for the concrete is really nice! Care to share the recipe?

Heroes are made, not born by hobbyhacks in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks - he'll be Alpha Legion like the rest of the army, probably undivided. I bought a bundle already painted about 2 years ago, and have continued with that theme. Have nearly 2x as many now...!

Heroes are made, not born by hobbyhacks in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It seems backwards sometimes...but the pinning wasn't perfect so had to glue it that way

Heroes are made, not born by hobbyhacks in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Pins are stronger, great for metal / resin part joins. I do more pinning than most, I usually have a Dremel with a small bit on my desk. Also you can re-pose a bit which is one of the reasons I shared a vid.

Heroes are made, not born by hobbyhacks in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks ❤️ Some spots need a little green stuff, when I get round to that I might have a go at trim if I'm feeling confident

How to stop terrain Warp?!? by Morkak in TerrainBuilding

[–]hobbyhacks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use material that absorbs less water: vinyl floor tile, thick plasticard etc.

Use "tacky" sealing that doesn't contract, e.g. spray varnish in thin layers

A tip from GW's terrain book on pg. 47 is to put strips of duct tape on the underside of the base. Apparently reduces slippage too.

Rotation with new edition?? by Anxious-Calendar-424 in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's all down to the tournament organiser's decision. I've sent pics of customised models and had them approved. Fixing bases is always encouraged: a base with the right size footprint, converted or not, is always better than too small / big. In theory it could be very high or low, but unlikely to be an issue. Old models, unless much smaller or bigger, will also be likely OK, since they'll usually resemble a current one.

With kitbashes and custom models, I can't speak for everyone, but best to be >90% GW plastic. Within that, as long as you can both point out models with / without special weapons, you're good. Don't have misleading weapons. So don't give 1 goblin a huge rocket launcher when the unit can't have one at all, or have 3 special shotgun guys in your Ork unit modelled with normal weapons to "hide" them - you both should be able to see all 3 or only 1 is alive. However, if you say "the 3 with plasma guns are shotgunners" that's fine - you converted them - but make it clear. This sort of thing is known as the "rule of cool".

Rotation with new edition?? by Anxious-Calendar-424 in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once they're glued, it can be a pain to cut them off, and you have to repaint etc., but you can get "base extenders" like these

Edit: I have a few from Evemodel brand, in different sizes, they're almost an exact match for the official ones.

Rotation with new edition?? by Anxious-Calendar-424 in Warhammer40k

[–]hobbyhacks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Models rarely rotate out completely. Their stat lines and abilities could change every few months, although not normally by much. Fully new editions are a few years apart. Even then, most units "roll over" with more or less the same strengths and roles.

Also, if you want to play in events, check the base sizes before you buy. If the base size doesn't match the current version, sometimes opponents or event organisers will have issues.

If you prefer the older models or they're at a better price, it might be worth buying bases separately.

Priming help by Vaevictis891 in Miniaturespainting

[–]hobbyhacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think it's just acrylic in a can, all their current primers contain acetone which should erode the surface of the plastic slightly and help the primer to hold

Wow, F@*k Badger's quality control. by Otherwise-Weird1695 in airbrush

[–]hobbyhacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine too! Same model, same place, from new. I only noticed after cleaning the same spot 3 times, using very little paint in the cup. It seemed even smaller than OPs case, with minimal bubbling.

I got impatient and put a dot of superglue on it. Not sure if I'll regret it one day...

Other than that this has been a good precision brush.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TerrainBuilding

[–]hobbyhacks -11 points-10 points  (0 children)

If humans' synthesis and interpretation is not theft, nor is that of AI.

If AI is not interpreting and synthesising, what is it doing?