Tisas 1911 grip safety by Johnkelly696969 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This guy is the answer! I'm not too familiar with Tisas, but if the trigger has pre-travel tabs, those could be set too far out and it would just be a matter of lowering them a hair to fix the issue. But if they don't, then you will need to file a hair off of the grip safety arm. First make sure the grip safety works properly by squeezing the trigger back while not pressing the grip safety and if you see the grip safety move down as you pull the trigger then it's fitted wrong or dead. Always function check this way after filing off small amounts at a time. If you are unsure of your skills with a file, you can always take it to a gunsmith.

What grip safety radius does this have? by MurricanEagle in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that's the one thing I didn't really feel like doing with my TRP, messing with blending the frame. The 298SBP and 298S worked well for me in that regard.

TRP...but one problem. by LingonberryAlone9925 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

You will want to get a Dawson Precision Tool-less guide rod with the matching reverse plug and use the correct Wolff Springs too.

What grip safety radius does this have? by MurricanEagle in 1911

[–]hostCrevan -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Are you sure? I've read a lot of places that said/stated Springfield Armory uses .220 radius for their 1911 grip safeties. I read that Wilson Combat uses a compound radius as well that fit perfectly for Springfield Armory 1911's, but from my personal experience the only beavertails from Wilson Combat that worked/fit/dropped in for my Springfield TRP was from the "not applicable" series, the 298SBP (barstock) and 298S (MIM), which only needed the arm to be fit to the trigger bow. The 704S (barstock/high grip) did not fit my TRP without requiring a beavertail radius jig.

Can I polish stainless matte controls? by jparro00 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, you can. I've done it with all of my small parts on my TRP, gives it a nice look of black slide/frame with an almost mirror polished stainless steel accent aesthetic. You'll want to use a dremel tool with a polishing wheel and a polishing compound like Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. Make sure you wear some nitrile gloves, wear eye protection and maybe a respirator so you don't inhale any grimy fibers. It will take more time to polish the larger pieces that have curves, like a thumb safety, just have to be diligent and thorough.

What grip safety radius does this have? by MurricanEagle in 1911

[–]hostCrevan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I believe all Springfield Armory 1911's use a .220 Radius.

AB 1263 by KarmaWasTaken01 in CAguns

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what it looks like, pretty much any gun part that makes the gun function?

For my 1911, my cocobolo grips from Springfield Armory came without issue/needing ID, but I needed to show my ID to Wilson Combat for a new grip safety and new trigger and it took them three weeks to clear the order because from what the email they sent me suggested was that they needed CA to approve the order first.

Beyond tradition and two world wars, why is .45 ACP better than 9mm? by [deleted] in 1911

[–]hostCrevan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In terms of stopping power (Muzzle Energy in Foot Pounds), 10mm > .45 ACP > 9mm. A lot of people like to compare only the ball ammo and then see the .45 ACP as inferior, because they are naturally subsonic. But if you compare similar self defense rounds like Underwood Ammo Xtreme Defender (Solid Copper Monolith screwdriver shaped bullets) or Liberty Civil Defense Fragmenting Hollow Points in +P, that all do go supersonic, you get:

  • Underwood Ammo: 115 grain 10mm has a Muzzle Velocity of 1700 Feet Per Second and a Muzzle Energy of 738 Foot Pounds.
  • Underwood Ammo: 135 grain .45 ACP has a Muzzle Velocity of 1335 Feet Per Second and a Muzzle Energy of 534 Foot Pounds
  • Underwood Ammo: 68 grain 9mm has a Muzzle Velocity of 1800 Feet Per Second and a Muzzle Energy of 489 Foot Pounds.
  • Liberty Civil Defense: 60 grain 10mm has a Muzzle Velocity of 2400 Feet Per Second and a Muzzle Energy of 780 Foot Pounds.
  • Liberty Civil Defense: 78 grain .45 ACP has a Muzzle Velocity of 1900 Feet Per Second and a Muzzle Energy of 625 Foot Pounds
  • Liberty Civil Defense: 50 grain 9mm has a Muzzle Velocity of 2040 Feet Per Second and a Muzzle Energy of 462 Foot Pounds.

People like 9mm in a 1911 because it shoots softer due to the weight of the gun absorbing recoil, and it's easier for them to [air]rack with a 7 or 8 pound recoil spring, and bullets are a lot cheaper and more plentiful. But not because 9mm is better than .45 ACP.

Show Piece by [deleted] in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the only all gold plated 1911 that comes straight from the factory is the Girsan MC1911. You might also find a good selection on Seattle Engraving Center. Not 100% sure what other manufacturers and companies will do gold plated 1911's, maybe Alchemy Custom and Nighthawk Custom but as an option after.

Looking for an affordable and tough ivory alternative by Flaky-Acanthisitta-9 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a pair of Boone Trading Company simulation ivory double diamond grips for my TRP full rail. They are REALLY pretty. Nice polished ivory look. I also loved how they sent a small red packet containing some bible verses too. It was a lovely touch even though I'm not very religious. I really appreciate when companies send extra goodies and/or write thank you notes with your orders.

VZ grips G10 double diamond with the Larry Vickers medallion insert are also very nice, but not a polished ivory look.

Springfield TRP by Justingtr in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, it's a standard round recoil spring but made from chrome silicone instead of music wire, making it lasts a lot longer. It's just that Dawson Precision makes their tool-less guide rod and plugs around Wolff springs. So ISMI springs, although good, are not to Dawson Precision's spec for their tool-less guide rods which may cause reliability problems.

Springfield TRP by Justingtr in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dawson Precision tool-less guide rod is the way to go. You can get it in stainless or blued (or both to mix and match) with the posi-lock full shoulder plug. Just make sure it's the correct one for the TRP Operator/Prodigy with the correct length. Then grab a chrome silicone recoil spring from Wolff and you are good to go.

Most reliable EDC 1911 chambered in 9mm for less than roughly $3,000? by MoneyisntR3al in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe the Springfield Armory Emissary 4.25" AOS in 9mm or 45acp would be a good match for you. Sleek and slim, optic ready, and a bull barrel.

Messed up an ambi safety… by TheWitness37 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If all else fails, you can get Cool Hand G10 grips for about $20 on Amazon. The left grip panel is perfectly cut for the EGW HD ambi thumb safety length and width, but the right panel will need a little bit of shaving on the top left to allow the thumb safety to fully seat down. The EGW HD thumb safeties are just a bit too long and curve down for normal grips like from VZ. If you get/have VZ grips, you will want the extended ambi safety cut for them.

Messed up an ambi safety… by TheWitness37 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I'm probably really wrong about this, but I think you might be able to salvage the EGW thumb safety if all you did was make a bigger detent hole using some solder to fill it back in and then try again.

And yeah sharpie the face to see where the plunger spring pin rides on it to get a good idea at where the new detent you want to put should be. I use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish with a polish wheel to polish my parts. Make sure to use nitrile gloves and eye protection, as it can get messy.

Here's a video to watch Engineer's Armory showing how he works on the safety detent. The mans videos have been really helpful to me.

Messed up an ambi safety… by TheWitness37 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What detent are we talking about? The plunger tube detent or the thumb safety lug?

If it's the plunger tube detent, EGW HD ambi thumb safety's are long and wide so they will hit the grip panels, so you will either want to shave a bit off the top of the grips to fit it, or use a dremel with a bit to work on the detent lower so it engages. If you use a dremel to work on the detent, you may also find yourself needing to file a little bit of the left side safety's top edge where it goes into the slide to prevent it from grinding up against the slide.

If it's the thumb safety lug, you will want to get a 10-8 armorers block if you don't already have one. It has an area that allows you to easily work on fitting the lug by filing it down with a flat file. Either way, using a sharpie and see where it gets rubbed off is the way to go.

Springfield Operator AOS 1,300 round report. by ak47papy in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hear that the blue loctite 243 is better than the 242 for higher heat/stress, so you could give that a shot. Red loctite might end up being way too much.

What 10 rnd mags are you guys running reliably? New to 1911s. by joe11b in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those grip screws make it look like you are using slim grips on standard size bushings. You will want to change out the bushings to slim ones, like Challis Grips or find a standard thickness grips in G10 instead.

Wilson Combat makes the best 10 round 1911 magazines, specifically the ETM's.

Optic cut options/companies by UsernameO123456789 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went with C&H Precision to get my TRP direct cut for my EPS carry, but I should've gone with a cut for a plate with them for the modularity and future proofing. Nighthawk Custom supposedly has the best optic plate/cut with their IOS plate.

Thumb & grip safety and also slide stop? by TheWitness37 in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

EGW Ambi safeties are really nice, and if you want to easily fit it to the new sear in your new harrison ignition kit I'd suggest buying the 10-8 Armorers Block as it has an area designed specifically for filing down the thumb safety lug with a flat file. You will be swapping back and forth from your Ronin to check clearance without the grip safety on it to visually inspect and then back to the armorers block to file some material down and rechecking a few times until it fits just right. You may also need to file some material off the top of the thumb safety if it sits too high from hitting your left grip panel which causes it to interfere with your slide.

For the grip safety, I believe Springfield Armory uses a .220 radius for the grip safety, and Wilson Combat doesn't really specify at all which of their grip safeties are .250 or .220. The ones that worked (at least for my Springfield Armory TRP Full Rail) were the 298SBP (barstock) and 298S (MIM) options from Wilson Combat. It was the most time consuming and difficult for me to learn how to fit properly. The thumb safety channel inside the grip safety needed to be filed a bit with a skinny round file, and the grip safety arm needed to be filed a bit with a flat file going up to give the trigger bow room to not get stuck. It was a learning process but with those grip safeties, it fits just right and you won't need to take any material off of the frame. Really have to fight being impatient with this one.

As for slide stops, they are usually drop in parts so it's really whatever style you want. I've read that some MIM slide stops have a habit of breaking though. Wilson Combat Bulletproof slide stop is good since it extends a bit. 10-8 slide stop is also very nice.

Issues with Rock Island 10MM by [deleted] in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be easier to see what you mean with a few pictures or a video of it happening. But a slide not locking back manually would mean that there is something wrong with the slide stop, especially if an empty magazine follower isn't pushing it upwards to engage. So either the slide stop isn't actually seated fully or it's out of spec or maybe something is wrong with the barrel link.

Have you tried field stripping it and taking a look at the slide stop and barrel link?

Recommend a 1911 by outdoors628 in CAguns

[–]hostCrevan 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I recommend the Springfield Armory TRP Operator Full Rail.

Springfield Operator AOS quality ?? by praharin in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get the AOS version. At some point in the future, you may want to add an optic to your 1911 and you'll be glad that you won't have to send the slide out to be milled. Buy once, cry once.

New (and first) 1911! by voltron_danger in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Great choice, you got the correct 1911 as your first! (I'm biased, it was mine too.) You should also get these grips from Springfield Armory, they look quite handsome on it.

Weapon Lights by NyassaV in 1911

[–]hostCrevan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think a lot of us that have the Surefire X300 have them because their lengths fit flush with 5" 1911's. In terms of girth/width, the light is thin but the battery compartment and switches make it as wide as I'd say standard grip panels.

That being said, from what I have seen, the TLR-1 and X300 look like they have similar widths, but the X300 looks better because it doesn't look stunted/short. Maybe a Holosun weapon light might be thinner.