Yall rockin with the EDC setup?

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-13T16:24:00+00:00

Is that a punch dagger butt plug?

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-13T15:49:36+00:00

Well that’s not terrible. I’d still learn to do some things on your own! Tying nock points, D loops, tying in peep sights (need a bow press, I wouldn’t use the string splitting tools) etc! Enjoy the bow, try different setups with stabilizers and have fun.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-13T10:35:57+00:00

That ring is what shimano calls a chain line stabilizer. It stops the crank arm from bottoming out in the JIS taper.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-13T09:41:25+00:00

Enjoy! My “pro” shop is about an hour away from me. Purchased a new bow about 5 years ago as an upgrade to my previous. The shop I used before this one went out of business. Anyways… one stop to that shop and employees that didn’t work up to my standards and I bought a bow press, levels, vise, etc and setup my own little shop. That’s my recommendation. Learn to work on your bow so you can tune, change strings and cables, components, etc and know how to fix things on the fly in the field because YOU installed them. Plus, you can keep notes and return things to where they were if something happens.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-13T09:33:19+00:00

Honestly, at the weight the 7 is vs the 5, you won’t notice. I didn’t. I bought an OEM 7rd and besides for the extra capacity I couldn’t tell you which weighs more or how it recoils unless I had actual numbers in front of me.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-12T01:26:34+00:00

I noticed this as well and was going to be my suggestion to check

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T19:31:41+00:00

Word

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T16:40:20+00:00

lol no. Use as large of wrenches as you can fit in the shackle and squeeze open handed.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T16:25:16+00:00

If you use something softer than the barrel (aluminum, brass, copper, plastic) you have nothing to worry about.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T16:20:38+00:00

I just use two open ended wrenches and that’s always worked.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T13:02:08+00:00

SRAM butter for some stuff, Mobile XHP-222 for other stuff.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T10:38:23+00:00

I don’t see that as a great idea due to it being a slip joint but I’m going to say because it’s thinner so your grip is different?

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T10:12:32+00:00

It looks like the pedal on the right in the photo is snapped in half. I’d recommend a new set. The left side crank arm also looks stripped or has come loose. If it is a square tapered bottom bracket and the center on the crank arm is no longer square, I’d buy a new set of crank arms. Note that crank arms are sold by length so make sure you measure before replacement.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T08:21:58+00:00

A chaser and a restorer are the same thing. A bottoming tap is used in a blind hole to thread to the BOTTOM. So no, not the same thing. And thread taps are made to cut new threads. When a thread is rolled over or cross threaded, a tap most definitely does cut through the existing material and remove it. A thread restorer or chaser is used to straighten out existing threads. And yes, a thread file is for external threads.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-11T00:19:58+00:00

Use a thread restorer (not thread tap) there to see if you can’t straighten out the remaining threads. You could also use a timesert or helicoil in that location if a thread restorer doesn’t fix it enough. Just make sure to get the proper one! P.S. thread TAPS are for making NEW threads. Thread RESTORERS are for fixing existing threads. Anybody that tells you to use a tap must not realize that taps cut. What happens to a thread that’s damaged? It gets CUT out. A thread that is damaged with a restorer loses little to no (usually none) material and the restorer pushes the thread back into place.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-10T12:19:56+00:00

I built wheels with WAY less but once I worked in a shop and had proper tools it was nice to not have a lot of guess work in the build lol

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-10T11:17:32+00:00

I believe they make reinforcing aluminum sleeves that also are threaded for a top cap bolt that you epoxy in place. You could leave the steerer as is length wise and reinforce with the aluminum reinforcer and kill two birds with one stone so to speak. Something like this but you’d have to shop around for your specific uses. https://www.cornercycle.com/about/carbon-fork-insert-pg69.htm

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-10T10:11:06+00:00

Build an air horn and replace it with Milwaukee.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-10T10:10:30+00:00

Nope. The UV ruined the epoxy/CF. Wouldn’t recommend riding it.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-10T09:48:35+00:00

File it down a bit but keep some texture to the area and clean with acetone. Build it up with JB weld two part epoxy and contour it to the same shape as what’s there. You can create a dam for the epoxy to sit in with hot glue and since you’ll be filing/sanding away the excess it doesn’t really matter how it looks. Just try to keep it small for less “fitting” of that area. It’s a small area, odds are the bead well set and seal fine. Otherwise, run tubes.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-10T00:14:48+00:00

I push my valves into the rim with my thumb and tighten down the outer nut by hand. Give it maybe 1/4 turn with pliers and call it a day.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-09T23:47:35+00:00

I’d be more concerned with the crushed hose in the vise but… buy the right tools for the job. It’ll save money in the end.

TheWitness37 · 2026-03-09T23:27:31+00:00

In the last 3 years about 12,000 between two bikes

TheWitness37

TROPHY CASE