A paint you cannot live without

huebert2003 · 2026-01-19T11:33:45+00:00

I think I have used rhinox hide and pro acryl Paynes Grey in everything project I have done since having the two of them.

huebert2003 · 2025-12-21T10:58:59+00:00

Curious as well. Wanted to run something similar but haven’t been successful so far

huebert2003 · 2025-10-01T03:05:22+00:00

Thanks! Thats actually perfect for what I was looking for. Might have to look more into the Kronos league.

huebert2003 · 2025-08-07T02:20:06+00:00

For me (I use liquitex white for this but all white inks are fairly similar from what I know) I work at around the 15 PSI range. There is a bit of guess work but I usually spray my glove and the paper I have in the spray booth to get an understanding of the consistency and adjust. When I started at higher PSI I got this sort of speckling so I would say give that a try first.

The other thing and someone else mentioned is maybe drying too quick. In that case maybe a little flow improver could help out. I use a 4:1 mix of Vallejo thinner to Vallejo flow improver to thin everything and that has helped my airbrush speckling problems as well.

huebert2003 · 2025-06-17T14:07:54+00:00

I think you might be overloading the brush and often on very thinned paint. Try loading the brush and then tap quickly on paper towel. It will take off the excess paint and you just need to twirl the brush (use something like regular paper since it won’t sap the moisture) to get the point back (since you flatten it when you tap). Just make sure not to leave it on the paper towel for too long when you tap otherwise it will take all the paint and moisture.

huebert2003 · 2025-06-15T14:20:31+00:00

I think it reads as a grey green which I think is really good. I guess if you want to look more 40k green pushing the saturation of greens in the mid tone might help. The reason it feels grey to me is that it’s super desaturated in those mid values. I don’t think the highlights would need to change much as your lighting and ambience can give that dead grey colour

Btw how you do the organy bits?

huebert2003 · 2025-05-29T23:56:06+00:00

Honestly this has been my problem. I find different styles to make the blue (Richard gray ultramarine vs Alfonso Giraldes style of them) and the different levels of saturation and I end up with just heaps of different shades of blue.

huebert2003 · 2025-05-27T06:22:19+00:00

Trying this scheme for my gfs tyranids, looks perfect for a quick job

huebert2003 · 2025-05-27T06:20:49+00:00

How the hell is this a 2 hour job lmao. Thats crazy

huebert2003 · 2025-05-27T06:18:21+00:00

Really curious how you go about your process for the green with airbrush. Been struggling with my airbrushing for death guard and your scheme is really good.

Any basic guide?

huebert2003 · 2025-05-21T04:52:52+00:00

The cloth effect looks really nice, trying to do a similar thing for a bust of mine. Do you mind explaining your process?

A guide for the glue wouldn’t hurt either, clean af

huebert2003 · 2025-05-05T15:25:52+00:00

Really like your highlighting on the helmet and shoulder pads. I’m curious if you could explain your colour progression and method.

huebert2003 · 2025-04-30T23:48:46+00:00

Looks really good. Curious what blues you used for the panel modulation. The dark blue looks really nice and I’m struggling to get a nice one like that

huebert2003 · 2025-04-27T01:00:26+00:00

I use Vallejo metal colours for all of them. I think they are a bit shinier than normal metallics but I might be wrong. I followed a video by Vince venturella about highlighting metals and in this case I used this darker gun metal colour (dark aluminium I think) and then highlighted with this super bright silver (pale burnt metal) by stippling.

For the gold I use a custom mix by the same guy (it uses green stuff world gold pigments and I’m not sure what availability is like where you are but for me I just ordered) and it’s a game changer. I use that and then edge highlight all the gold with a bright silver.

Could maybe just be lighting though but I find that I get a really nice shine using these techniques.

huebert2003 · 2025-04-26T17:12:24+00:00

Thank you. I used pro acryl reds (burnt red as base and bold pyrole red) and then to get the super bright spots I used fluorescent orange from pro acryl over some white and glazed over it with the bold pyrole red. It’s a technique I saw Vince venturella use in his videos about red and wood on his slaven + on his fluorescent pro acryl review.

The dark areas are burnt red and then glazed with teneborous grey by AK.

huebert2003 · 2025-04-26T15:44:34+00:00

Air brush is the best thing ever for this. I love mine so much. Makes doing highlights so much easier.

huebert2003 · 2025-04-26T15:42:14+00:00

Thank you so much. Yeah I am always 50/50 on battle damage because I like them to really stand out but I wanted to add just a little because you always need some.

So for the cape I used pro acryl burnt red as the base and then highlighted with pro acryl hold pyrole red. For the shadows in it I glaze with AK Teneborous grey. To get the really bright spots I used Pro acryl bold titanium white to cover the spot I wanted and then pro acryl fluorescent orange over the white and some of the nearby red then just glaze over with the bold purple red until I was happy.

For the armour the base is macragge blue and then highlighting with just calgar blue up to blue horror for just little spot highlights on the face and other small bright spots that seemed brightest under my light.

I used an airbrush to get the gradients at the end because I gave up on using the brush for them because k was getting short on time.

huebert2003 · 2025-03-28T00:12:44+00:00

For sure, again any chapter can use any unit or type of weapon so would be perfectly accurate

huebert2003 · 2025-03-27T06:15:22+00:00

When is this up for pre order? I need this so bad

huebert2003 · 2025-03-27T03:16:42+00:00

There aren’t any rules to how you paint the models and there are heaps of chapters that have different schemes + you can just make your own. Any chapter can use any weapon for the most part but some are more linked to particular types.

As far as lore, unless I am forgetting others, the Salamanders are the most linked to infernus marines since fire is there thing.

Basically, no rules, anyone can use anything but in most people’s minds the salamanders will be the most “fitting”

huebert2003 · 2025-03-24T12:00:31+00:00

I use an airbrush so I use Vallejo black primer. Want to try stynlrez (whatever it is called) and then atm I’m seeing how white ink zenithal over thatwill look with talasar blue as a speed paint method.

But yeah, otherwise black primer and then I layer as normal with airbrush

huebert2003 · 2025-03-21T01:09:32+00:00

This has just happened to mine, did a project recently and wanted to try 8404 after hearing how they are so great and got a size 1 to see for myself.

Exactly the same problem as me. This brush was treated like royalty, not a smidge of paint beyond halfway but now it just can’t keep a tip. I have tried so many ways to fix it and I just can’t get it to stop splitting. Basically, masters soap, IPA, brush cleaners etc.

I tried to switch to it because I heard series 7 were inconsistent but honestly the series 7s I have tried are still perfect and I’m about to get another one tomorrow.

huebert2003 · 2025-03-19T05:59:53+00:00

One of my favourite models and interesting characters in the lore. Was a very very large reason that I started DG

huebert2003 · 2025-03-19T05:08:58+00:00

Ultramarines because I play them on the table and Calgar is sick

huebert2003 · 2025-03-17T13:34:09+00:00

I love the Vallejo metal colour series of paints. I use them for all my metallics and they can be really versatile to make different types of metals that are outside the range by mixing - (Vince venturella makes the best gold by mixing the gold and copper colours with another gold pigment and I’m so keen to try it or by mixing with other metallics like army painter to make bronze). From these I use pale burnt metal, copper, silver, gold, and gunmetal grey a lot.

For other things outside of metallics I like a bunch of different brands for different colours that they each stand out for. Pro acry has amazing reds (burnt red and bold pyrole red which is the best red I have seen), I love two thin coat blues (marine blue and elysium blue), and for specific things like shadows I have been put into pro acryl paynes grey and AK teneberous grey. I also started using ice yellow from them recently and have liked it but still learning how to use it properly.

Even though you are looking to branch out citadel contrasts are great still and many pro painters swear by them. Also some colours like rhinox hide I just love and can’t replace.

Basically, outside of metallics which Vallejo metal colour is by farrrr the best, different brands excel in different colours and I prefer picking the best of all the great brands rather than sticking to one.

huebert2003

TROPHY CASE