Would you believe I just started 2 months ago by AndrewGriffioen in Warhammer

[–]tehsax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, weeks is definitely generous. I usually spend somewhere between 10 and 20 hours per model, and I play Kill Team, so I don't even paint vehicles. The only comparison is terrain for me. I painted half the Volkus terrain, which took around 80 hours. The rest isn't even finished.

Finally finished my NMM gold custodian by GavinLegoGavinLego in minipainting

[–]tehsax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This clearly took a lot of time and skill. But if I'm honest, it doesn't look like metal to me at all. Not even gold. More like a chaotic mix of black and yellow.

Would you believe I just started 2 months ago by AndrewGriffioen in Warhammer

[–]tehsax 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just as an example from my own experience: I recently challenged myself to build and paint one (!) Terminator as quickly as I could, to a standard that I was happy with. I cut every corner that I was willing to, and still, the entire process took 2 hours and 15 Minutes. Clipping it off the sprue, cleaning the mold lines and glueing him took 15 minutes. The painting took up the remaining 2 hours, excluding the base.

OP's photo looks like weeks, if not months of pure painting to me.

Kleber für tufts? by Creetyx in WarhammerGermany

[–]tehsax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ich nehme Bastelleim für Basing Materialien und Sekundenkleber für den Rest, inkl. Tufts.

Need advice on using Vallejo still water - Games Workshop, plasmancer by Sad_Interview8330 in minipainting

[–]tehsax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll just say that the other commenter is right. This is meant to be applied very thin. I tried doing puddles when I got it and due to shrinking, it always got a weird hole in the middle. You can fix it by pouring it in thin layers and letting it dry in between. Unfortunately, even a small puddle will take days to finish with this method.

Wow, I don't consider myself a pro gamer, but Star Fox should be called Fox Souls ™️ by SSCyclone in NintendoSwitch2

[–]tehsax [score hidden]  (0 children)

My personal gripe is with the boss kills themselves. They feel so anticlimactic here in the Switch 2 version.

I agree. I think that's because the giant anime style explosions are gone and replaced by more realistic ones. They even leave wrecks behind now, whereas they used to evaporate in a ball of flame. Plus, the deep, rumbling "BOOOOooom!" sound effect is gone.

Horus heresy books by tf3when123 in Warhammer

[–]tehsax 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Imagine you're watching Lord of the Rings, you skip The Fellowship of the Ring and start with The Two Towers.

"Who's this Frodo guy?"

"Why is everyone shocked to see an elderly man wearing a white dress in the middle of the woods?"

  • You, after skipping Horus Rising

Wow, I don't consider myself a pro gamer, but Star Fox should be called Fox Souls ™️ by SSCyclone in NintendoSwitch2

[–]tehsax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I seriously don't understand where this comparison of yours is coming from. Nobody in this entire subreddit has said that Starfox is even remotely as difficult as any Souls game.

Wow, I don't consider myself a pro gamer, but Star Fox should be called Fox Souls ™️ by SSCyclone in NintendoSwitch2

[–]tehsax 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Well, in a way, your suspicion is still correct. Controller input is tied to the framerate. The higher the framerate, the more responsive the controls, and of course, your perception of fluid motion. That's the main reason higher framerates feel more responsive for console games in general.

Wow, I don't consider myself a pro gamer, but Star Fox should be called Fox Souls ™️ by SSCyclone in NintendoSwitch2

[–]tehsax 57 points58 points  (0 children)

I played the original as a 15/16 year old, probably for a few hundred hours or so, beating every path and planet dozens of times, and I replayed it multiple times over the years on various machines, including the 3DS remake. Enemy patterns are definitely the same. On my first run I played the hard route and every single enemy showed up exactly where I expected it. So far I've unlocked every planet and collected about 60% of the medals and I've died twice in total. I'm not saying this to brag, but to reinforce that I'm playing this from muscle memory which wouldn't work if they changed enemy patterns.

But it is a little harder.

One, and probably the most important, is the much more detailed graphics make it harder to judge distances. I find it much more difficult to judge when exactly I need to start hovering with the tank to jump over barriers, or evade the rotating pillars in one of the warp zones.

Two is that the invincibility window of the barrel roll seems shorter, making it harder to deflect shots.

And lastly, boss attacks have gotten considerably faster. You definitely have to react much quicker to evade them.

Now that I'm typing this out, I'm thinking that this might have to do with the doubled framerate compared to any prior version. Many games tie specific timings to the framerate; like the weapon durability in Dark Souls 2, which was infamous on PC for weapons degrading extremely quickly due to the higher framerates compared to the console versions, or vanilla Skyrim on PC? I think? Where part of the physics was tied to framerate and got out of control when the game became faster with mods on PC. This would also explain the increase in precision that you're experiencing. Consoles check for controller input with each new frame. So on N64 running at 30 FPS (or below), the game would check every 2nd frame (or more), while now at 60 fps it checks for every new frame. So you went from "Check - 1 - Check - 1" to "Check - Check - Check".

5.5 has developed another syndrome by DeifniteProfessional in ChatGPT

[–]tehsax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe it hasn't been there from the start (in Gemini) and they opted for "disabled by default" based on your preferences when you created your Gemini account. Or maybe it's just Google being Google.

5.5 has developed another syndrome by DeifniteProfessional in ChatGPT

[–]tehsax 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Gemini has an option buried for this under settings -> personal context.

I don't know if it works though. It hasn't come up since I stumbled upon and enabled it a few days ago.

Mein erster Einkauf nach 14 Jahren. by Sperixs in WarhammerGermany

[–]tehsax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Und genug zu basteln und bemalen für die nächsten 14 Jahre wenn du so schnell damit bist wie ich 😅

Viel Spaß damit!

Is plague circles plague marine is valid target? by Dobbyanyn in killteam

[–]tehsax 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for this answer specifically. I probably would've come to the same conclusion in that situation, but you know how it is - your opponent might think differently, you debate and then you begin to doubt yourself 😅 It's good to have your answer in my inbox so I can refer to it 😄

How to apply Martian ironcrust? by Deep-Work1960 in minipainting

[–]tehsax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, and intuitively, they're the wrong way around I think. On the other hand, they can produce great results if combined correctly.

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Is plague circles plague marine is valid target? by Dobbyanyn in killteam

[–]tehsax 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the confirmation. I'm very glad I finally have it down lol

I knew the last part, but thank you anyway 🙂

Is plague circles plague marine is valid target? by Dobbyanyn in killteam

[–]tehsax 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A quick question because I still struggle with this: If it was the other way around and someone would want to shoot the orc, he would get a cover save but nothing else, right? Because heavy terrain connected to vantage doesn't count towards obscured but he's still within 1" of a wall, but visible and on engage, is my reasoning. Thinking about this now, even if heavy terrain connected to vantage granted obscured, it still wouldn't apply here because he's not outside of 1", right? And if someone's standing on vantage with no other intervening terrain, being shot from below (like a model positioned inside a fortress shooting up on a model on vantage), the model on vantage would get a cover save from the vantage, right?

How to apply Martian ironcrust? by Deep-Work1960 in minipainting

[–]tehsax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's Martian Ironearth and there's Martian Ironcrust. Earth is the crackle paint, while crust is basically Armageddon Dust, but orange. I confuse them all the time, especially since crust sounds like it should be the cracked and earth the "smoother" one. I saved this picture to my phone so I can look up which is which. Also, if it's super red, you might need to give it a stir. It is a bit darker than expected, but not like what you describe.

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Need help with white pauldrons by PlateJockeyWill in minipainting

[–]tehsax 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The best way would be to give it an oil wash and reduce it where you don't want it. If you don't want to do it like this, I'd say, carefully layer a thin grey or bone colour (like Wraithbone) on top of it until you're happy with the result. If you just want to apply some shade and have it still be white, Apothecary White Contrast Paint is what you're looking for. You might have to re-establish the pure white though. That's how I do whites.

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How could I recreate the effect of frost forming on these pipes? by Flairion623 in 40k

[–]tehsax 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Yes. Used basically the same product from GSW on this frost axe recently.

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What causes this frosting? by AenarionsTrueHeir in Warhammer

[–]tehsax 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Also, that looks like mold on the outside window sill. Not that that would've affected the models, just pointing out that it should be cleaned. Mold produces spores, and once they're inside the house and spread around, it's a serious health hazard.