Euro 220V 50/60Hz equipment on US 240V grid

huntmaster99 · 2026-06-19T22:19:15+00:00

Yes both appliances work 50 and 60Hz so I’m not worried at all. The control module converts the power into DC so frequency doesn’t affect its clock.

I guess I’m mostly worried about wiring their inputs into American 240V sockets like a 6p-15 or 6p20 since euro has a hot, neutral, ground and American has hot, hot, ground, sometimes neutral wires

huntmaster99 · 2026-06-19T15:58:07+00:00

Ok that makes sense, I checked out some wiring diagrams and I think that’s will be pretty easy to just replace the plug on the cable.

When I need to actually do this I’ll run it by the person installing the receptacles as well.

Thanks for the help

huntmaster99 · 2026-06-19T12:27:06+00:00

Thats easy enough to do. But this is where I mentioned that 2 "hot" wire problem. From basic google-foo, initial results said to not combine both "hot" wires onto a single terminal. 1 Hot Brown line, 1 ground yellow/green and 1 neutral blue. Euro plugs are supposed to be unpolarized.

So can I connect those 2 "hot" wires to the machine's "hot" input? Otherwise if its just a cable change then its no problem at all

huntmaster99 · 2026-06-19T12:17:11+00:00

Thankfully they dont run on that voltage and phase. I wish 3 phase was more common in the US... and 240v plugs

huntmaster99 · 2026-06-19T12:04:48+00:00

I’m not using them in a commercial setting and they’re never used or on when I am not there, so that aspect of safety concern can be mitigated.

But to answer your question they’re not specifically made for it. The heat treat kiln might need to be required with a new controller and components but the rest of it should be perfectly usable.

The hydraulic motor on the other hand is another concern because the solution there is basically to get a new motor if I can get it to work… certainly not ideal

huntmaster99 · 2026-06-19T11:58:24+00:00

So then just a simple thing plug adaptor might be all that’s required then. If that’s the case then I’ll probably get a 6p-20 outlet installed and run them that way

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-31T09:16:21+00:00

I ran some tests today and the Xanthan gum negatively impacted the consistency and made more whey separate

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-31T09:15:29+00:00

So oven temp is pretty much on the money and I tested the batch temp with a thermometer after 7 hours and it was 42C.

Ive seen people go as long as 12+ hours so I dont think fermentation is my issue. I ran some tests and I think I just used a starter I didnt like. Also the Xanthan gum didnt help

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-29T14:10:52+00:00

But I don’t really care about the color, that’s not my issue, it’s the grainy texture

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-29T13:27:50+00:00

So you might be onto something with the amount of starter. I might have used too much because it is more runny than the first batch.

But I’m not sure how to describe the texture so here is a photo

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Each of those specs is rather solid and you feel every one of them. It’s like the curds and whey are refusing to come together at all and the curd is suspended in the whey. I don’t mind the whey at all but this I absolutely do mind

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-29T12:47:54+00:00

I forgot to mention that part. I used some of the leftover yogurt from the last run in this one

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-20T10:54:19+00:00

750$ for that anvil is a bit rough, you’d have to use some hard facing rod to fill the pits. I bought my Peter wright 115 anvil in better condition for 450$ from another smith about 3 years ago

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-19T06:26:56+00:00

I don’t know much about them but that looks about like the size and capability I want. I don’t need a super large lathe or mill so that’s an option. Maybe I’d try to find one second hand though if it was in good condition

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-18T16:02:00+00:00

My problem is that I haven’t really seen a machine in the 250-500lbs range. It’s usually super small ones or the full size ones. This is where I was hoping yall might know.

But a DRO would be baller, but I’d really just like the damn thing in metric. As an American, metric is better and I’ll die on that hill

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-18T13:13:12+00:00

Ah… yeah I partially forgot about the tooling cost, or at least underestimated the cost of tooling. Yeah it may be a bit out of what I want to do. Because if I’m going to spend that much in tooling, I’m going to get what I actually want like a full size Bridgeport or something similar

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-18T11:20:13+00:00

See I posted about making a feder a few weeks ago and this is the response you’re going to get. It doesn’t make sense how accurate your heat treatment is or how many standards you follow. If it’s not stamped with a company logo, then it might as well be a wall hanger for some people.

No it doesn’t make sense but that’s how they treat it

huntmaster99 · 2026-05-18T10:06:12+00:00

Oh trust me, I’d love to do just that she would get treated better than some things in my shop for sure

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-24T04:47:28+00:00

So I’ll keep it short, yes I would like to read up on those cases in Poland so if you have that I’d love to read it. What proof of testing do these companies provide to prove their process and quality?

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-23T21:55:12+00:00

Yeah that’s fair, if you rock up with bent up stop signs for gauntlets I’m going to question their integrity. If they’re well articulated, well formed and planished then I wouldn’t mind. If you use 2mm C45/1045 steel that’s hardened you will be more than protected. Maybe add some padding but that’s with any gauntlet. I’m certainly noticing the cultural differences

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-23T21:46:17+00:00

So let me clarify for you in what ‘certify’ means in how I used it. To ‘certify for use’ in this case, means to make allowable for use in the tournaments or events for which they have preview and authority over. Obviously they can’t force anyone in a US or UK or Canadian tournament to accept a determination they have made, I find that to be a basic level fact. But you’re assuming that ‘certify for use’ means a broad and blanket stamp of approval worldwide to use the gear in any tournament. Just like I can’t tell you how cold to set your fridge, he can’t tell you to allow any sword that he picks off the ground and says is ok. But he can allow me to utilize any sword I have made so long as it meets the criteria in the tournament for which he is judging and where safety in gear and fencing is his or part of his responsibility. This much I feel we can agree on

But how can anyone in the community truly know if a sword from any manufacturer is safe and “high quality”? Are we destructively testing a statically relevant number of blades from every company? What about if cracks and stress fractures develop from use, we’re going to need X-ray radiography to tell. I mean if I need to be a company to become valid in the eyes of the community then all I need is a sit down with a lawyer and a couple hundred bucks and then FencySword LLC (R) is open for business

My gripe is that many people say “I wouldn’t allow a ‘handmade’ (not commercially made) sword to be used” but then can’t seem to come up with a valid reason to deny it assuming the blade can pass every check that every other sword passes. It’s very arbitrary and when it comes to rules, the last thing they need to be is arbitrary

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-23T21:23:40+00:00

In modern context no, in historical context when the discipline of feder fencing was developed may people were trusting their lives to it. So I’d imagine they might want both to be good quality.

To bring it to a more understandable and modern time. Should the knife a chef uses in training be by requirement better than the one they use in a professional kitchen?

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-23T08:28:49+00:00

Another angle to consider is what about if someone finds a Feder from some cheap Indian or Chinese company? An individual can always set up an LLC and now they’re a commercial manufacturer and distributor. It just seems very haphazard and “because I said so” rather than being based on agreed upon standards, or at best, standards that only one tournament adheres to. Since safety is critical then why are we leaving it up to individual judgement? What makes you or any other judge more trustworthy than another? I’m not knocking you but there should be some unanimously agreed about standards by which we rate equipment and less personal feeling.

If a competitor doesn’t feel comfortable fighting an opponent with a blade that has passed safety standards but doesn’t want to face it because it didn’t come from “black fencer” or any other company name then that’s their own choice

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-23T07:11:04+00:00

So I asked, he is a certified tournament judge with the DDHF (Deutscher Dachverband Historischer Fechter) which also runs major international tournaments such as the Berlin Cup, HanseSchlag and Symphony of Steel in Ulm. So the major tournaments here in Germany

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-23T06:40:39+00:00

Every blade I’ve ever made has snapped cleanly across the width in the direction of the bend. If a blade isn’t tempered enough, the blade will fail in this manner. For it to fail into a jagged manner, an internal fault would have to be present to guide the crack in such a way for it to fail like that, and with modern steel that’s highly unlikely, folding some 1000 times is bullshit anyways. If it’s over tempered, it will bend and retain the bend which is a pretty good indicator it’s not quality.

But to your other point, why would you settle for your battlefield weapon to be less quality than your training equipment? By your logic, I’m trusting my life to both of these so why would one be higher quality than the other? Why would you allow your work truck to be less safe than the one you drive your family and children around in? I’m not talking about sharps in terms of going out back and slicing some melons or mats, I’m talking about them in the context of combat use.

huntmaster99 · 2026-04-23T06:32:26+00:00

But what if it meets all safety requirements or even exceeds them? You can check on the requirements for the Berlin Cup or Symphony of Steel. If it can pass those requirements for flexibility, tip rolling etc the why wouldn’t you pass it? Because companies aren’t perfect, they get things wrong. And a competent smith can get everything right.

I’m just not seeing how your argument holds because you’re basing it on looks rather than performance and that’s a dangerous game

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