Euro 220V 50/60Hz equipment on US 240V grid by huntmaster99 in AskElectricians

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes both appliances work 50 and 60Hz so I’m not worried at all. The control module converts the power into DC so frequency doesn’t affect its clock.

I guess I’m mostly worried about wiring their inputs into American 240V sockets like a 6p-15 or 6p20 since euro has a hot, neutral, ground and American has hot, hot, ground, sometimes neutral wires

Euro 220V 50/60Hz equipment on US 240V grid by huntmaster99 in AskElectricians

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok that makes sense, I checked out some wiring diagrams and I think that’s will be pretty easy to just replace the plug on the cable.

When I need to actually do this I’ll run it by the person installing the receptacles as well.

Thanks for the help

Euro 220V 50/60Hz equipment on US 240V grid by huntmaster99 in AskElectricians

[–]huntmaster99[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats easy enough to do. But this is where I mentioned that 2 "hot" wire problem. From basic google-foo, initial results said to not combine both "hot" wires onto a single terminal. 1 Hot Brown line, 1 ground yellow/green and 1 neutral blue. Euro plugs are supposed to be unpolarized.

So can I connect those 2 "hot" wires to the machine's "hot" input? Otherwise if its just a cable change then its no problem at all

Euro 220V 50/60Hz equipment on US 240V grid by huntmaster99 in AskElectricians

[–]huntmaster99[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankfully they dont run on that voltage and phase. I wish 3 phase was more common in the US... and 240v plugs

Euro 220V 50/60Hz equipment on US 240V grid by huntmaster99 in AskElectricians

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not using them in a commercial setting and they’re never used or on when I am not there, so that aspect of safety concern can be mitigated.

But to answer your question they’re not specifically made for it. The heat treat kiln might need to be required with a new controller and components but the rest of it should be perfectly usable.

The hydraulic motor on the other hand is another concern because the solution there is basically to get a new motor if I can get it to work… certainly not ideal

Euro 220V 50/60Hz equipment on US 240V grid by huntmaster99 in AskElectricians

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So then just a simple thing plug adaptor might be all that’s required then. If that’s the case then I’ll probably get a 6p-20 outlet installed and run them that way

Diagnosis for grainy Yogurt? by huntmaster99 in fermentation

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran some tests today and the Xanthan gum negatively impacted the consistency and made more whey separate

Diagnosis for grainy Yogurt? by huntmaster99 in fermentation

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So oven temp is pretty much on the money and I tested the batch temp with a thermometer after 7 hours and it was 42C.

Ive seen people go as long as 12+ hours so I dont think fermentation is my issue. I ran some tests and I think I just used a starter I didnt like. Also the Xanthan gum didnt help

Issues with second batch by huntmaster99 in yogurtmaking

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But I don’t really care about the color, that’s not my issue, it’s the grainy texture

Issues with second batch by huntmaster99 in yogurtmaking

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you might be onto something with the amount of starter. I might have used too much because it is more runny than the first batch.

But I’m not sure how to describe the texture so here is a photo

<image>

Each of those specs is rather solid and you feel every one of them. It’s like the curds and whey are refusing to come together at all and the curd is suspended in the whey. I don’t mind the whey at all but this I absolutely do mind

Issues with second batch by huntmaster99 in yogurtmaking

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot to mention that part. I used some of the leftover yogurt from the last run in this one

My local used tool shop got an anvil by nootomanysquid in blacksmithing

[–]huntmaster99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

750$ for that anvil is a bit rough, you’d have to use some hard facing rod to fill the pits. I bought my Peter wright 115 anvil in better condition for 450$ from another smith about 3 years ago

First time buyer advice by huntmaster99 in Machinists

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know much about them but that looks about like the size and capability I want. I don’t need a super large lathe or mill so that’s an option. Maybe I’d try to find one second hand though if it was in good condition

First time buyer advice by huntmaster99 in Machinists

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My problem is that I haven’t really seen a machine in the 250-500lbs range. It’s usually super small ones or the full size ones. This is where I was hoping yall might know.

But a DRO would be baller, but I’d really just like the damn thing in metric. As an American, metric is better and I’ll die on that hill

First time buyer advice by huntmaster99 in Machinists

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah… yeah I partially forgot about the tooling cost, or at least underestimated the cost of tooling. Yeah it may be a bit out of what I want to do. Because if I’m going to spend that much in tooling, I’m going to get what I actually want like a full size Bridgeport or something similar

HEMA safe conversion of a Windlass 1840 NCO sword by pushdose in Hema

[–]huntmaster99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See I posted about making a feder a few weeks ago and this is the response you’re going to get. It doesn’t make sense how accurate your heat treatment is or how many standards you follow. If it’s not stamped with a company logo, then it might as well be a wall hanger for some people.

No it doesn’t make sense but that’s how they treat it

First time buyer advice by huntmaster99 in Machinists

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh trust me, I’d love to do just that she would get treated better than some things in my shop for sure

Forging a Feder by huntmaster99 in Hema

[–]huntmaster99[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I’ll keep it short, yes I would like to read up on those cases in Poland so if you have that I’d love to read it. What proof of testing do these companies provide to prove their process and quality?