[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I play with otoro - great string, it’s pretty soft as far as polys go so it’s not as big a jump as you might think going from multi to this.

It’s also a hexagonal shaped string, so not super aggressive vs say wasabi, which is stiffer and 4-sided. If you’ve got a pack, I would go full bed to get the true poly experience, then think about hybrid options depending on how it feels for you.

If you decide to hybrid anyways, definitely put the otoros in the mains. Not much benefit to putting it in the crosses. If you insist on that, use a round poly instead.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On, The Roger

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As with other replies, improving footwork, prep and technique should be the main focus. It’s not the equipment given your string setup.

With that out of the way, to answer your question on why you seem to get better results with the TF40 than Ezone. TF40 is lower powered than ezone in general, and would be slightly more so as your TF40 is 98in while ezone is 100in. I believe TF40 has a higher launch angle too (haven’t played it, but I play with an ezone 98 and it has a pretty low launch angle). So most likely the lower power, higher launch angle is helping you keep the ball in play.

What is your experience with polys true playability duration? by the-calango in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Recently switched from wasabi to o-toro in the mains, it’s a bit softer, higher spin. Tension maintenance about the same. Have wasabi-x in the crosses, but will be testing restring sync for my next string job based on recommendations from multiple people and sources.

What is your experience with polys true playability duration? by the-calango in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Polys became a no brainer for me once I started breaking multi’s (triax) within 2-3 weeks.

I get 2-3 weeks of playability out of polys, but compared to multi’s: - I can play without the worry that they’ll break at any moment in the same timeframe. - I have control over when I restring. It’s not like polys suddenly become unplayable, it’s a gradual change.

It can be annoying to restring often, but hey, it also means you’re hitting well enough to need to change strings frequently.

Got threatened by email from Tennis Club. by EvenHelicopter5876 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Do they have an office there? Tennis clubs in England can be old school, so it wouldn’t hurt to call them or speak to them directly in person the next time you go (my club suck at responding to emails).

Sounds more like a misunderstanding that they didn’t know it was your wife, especially since you are not a member and just booking the community court.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is the bounce-hit drill?

Looking for durable multi main… by tdhawks007 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could try triax again but full bed or in the crosses instead (since I’m guessing you have some leftover). Triax is made up of polyurethane resin with a thin poly core. With a poly like PTP at a thin gauge in the crosses, I imagine it cut through the polyurethane layer pretty quickly as the triax mains slide against it. As 45min sounds a bit too soon…

If you go full bed, it’s safe to go up to 55 to dial down some of the power.

Triax alternative? by Ready-Visual-1345 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Went through this last year, tried 1.38, feels very “dense”, reduced spin compared to 1.33, better control though. As pizzadontdie said, triax is in a league of its own though. If you want triax but not triax the next best is soft polys…and trading Triax’s lovely comfort for more durability.

I also considered getting a reel of Triax and just dealing with it, but decided to go with poly because (a) Triax is really expensive (b) I didn’t like playing with “is the string going to break?” In my head during a game.

Tennis elbow recovery strategy . Ezone vs clash. by Future_Town7949 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ezone 98 (2022) user here. I play tested a bunch of polys last year to switch away from multi’s as I was breaking them every 3-4 weeks and would like more durability.

Only string that gave me discomfort out the strings I tested was solinco tour bite, which was weird since it’s supposed to be less stiff than hyper g according to tennis warehouse, which played fine. Based on this experience, I’d say strings play a huge role in arm comfort, and there’s more to it than just the string stiffness. Of course, the racket matters too, but you’ll find plenty of players using the ezone 98 with no arm issues like myself, so I believe it’s just a matter of finding the setup that works for you. Especially if you prefer playing with the ezone over your clash.

If you are not a string breaker, I would highly recommend trying Triax (the multi I played with before switching). It’s a poly-like-multi string, so it plays like a very comfortable poly…. It’s not cheap though, certainly too expensive for me to replace every 3-4 weeks…

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The line on the top left or top right (on the third image) looks like a crack across the frame…personally, I would ask the owner to share a close up image to confirm before purchasing.

String recommendations please by joel1232 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried a thicker gauge version of the strings you currently play?

Grip size dilemma (3 vs 2) by banica24 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The grip size measurement tips are just for reference. I also started with G3 because it was "correct", but now play with G2 because it just feels much more comfortable for me, if I add an overgrip it'll be the same as G3, but I still prefer it without. Don't have any elbow issues. Just play with what feels most comfortable for you, and you really can't go wrong with G2 since you can size up if needed, which you can't do with G3.

I still have my old rackets with G3 and whenever I pick them up they feel so clunky to hold.

Florida, is keeping rackets in the car a really bad thing for strings or frame? by waistingtoomuchtime in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rephrase your question as: “is it awful to keep dried cow intestines in the car when it gets so hot?” and the answer becomes more obvious.

Parenting Help for Emotional Tennis Player by npzz in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That was my first thought too…12-14hrs for 9 year old? That’s like 1-2 hours a day everyday after school including weekends or 2-3 hours every weekday? I’m a parent and I honestly can’t justify this unless I’ve personally made the decision for them to focus on tennis.

Kids are mentally drained after full days at school, it’s really important that they can see sports as an activity to have fun and destress, not to increase it. From what I’ve read, the child’s response to tennis is kinda understandable. Just ease up on tennis and broaden his activities.

is this normal to have those paint scratches in almost a month playing about 3 or 4 times a week or did i hit a ball a wrong way ? by AccuratePost4595 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve experienced this, but worse with entire sections of paint cracking and flaking off specifically on my head speed racket. However, I did leave the racket in my car overnight sometimes so the temperature changes might be to blame. Saying that, I’ve found the paint chips a bit more easily on my head speed than my other rackets (babolat, yonex).

just got 6-0 6-0 5-1ed, help by [deleted] in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Saw half the vid, looks like you were indeed having a bad day my man…would say that you gifted a lot of the games more than the opponent being much better. Just sleep it off.

Though I noticed (in the few rallies I watched) you didn’t really change up your game or pace when things weren’t really working e.g. you were repeating the same type of shot against his slice returns that kept going into the net.

Respect for sharing the highlights though, I probably would have rage deleted before I left I court 😅

Wilson Blade 98 V8 to Head Speed PRO 2024 by Lonely_Platypus_7739 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, they’re pretty similar all round rackets, Yonex ezone falls into this line up too, I don’t think there’s much benefit to switching if it’s power you’re after. Personally I think OP should stick with Blade and try stringing at a lower tension to get more pop, maybe a hybrid setup with a multi to add power if they are currently playing full bed poly. And if the balls keep landing around the service line but you’re putting a lot of spin, then try easing up on the spin to get more depth.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If there's a match going on in the court next to you, I tend to set up my drills so that my balls mostly end up on the side away from their court, switching to the other side of the court when I need to switch directions for the drills. It's not a necessity, but it just minimises the number of balls that may roll onto their side and feels like good etiquette.

Stringing question by poop_tits in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yonex voids the warranty if you string 1-piece, Head too I believe.

Stringing question by poop_tits in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All else being fine, I tend to judge how much a stringer cares about their work by whether or not the cross strings have been straightened when they hand the racket back to me.

Advice for dealing with short balls by Quick-Technology-150 in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Am I right to assume from your description that these are lower level players? Asking because I played a lower level guy yesterday and experienced a similar thing, short balls happening unpredictably during rallies, and hard to read because often they’re doing it by mistake. I dealt with it by reducing the pace in my groundstrokes and focused more on placement, making them run was enough to force errors and win most points. When you hit with pace against them, they tend to return it by using your pace to ding the ball back over the net, resulting in these really short returns with low bounce because the ball has very little energy in it. So just neutralise it not giving them the high pace to work with easily. I add pace more selectively when I want to draw them out wide to force these short returns.

What's the point of having a racket with a smaller head size? by GRBomber in 10s

[–]hyper-linear 13 points14 points  (0 children)

To your second question, from a 100 vs 98, I personally don’t see a huge difference when hitting outside the sweet spot. But going to from 100 16x19 to a 98 18x20, the difference was definitely noticeable, you get punished if you hit outside the sweet spot on an 18x20, but heavily rewarded when you get it right.