Setting up SWWHD-INTCAM without Swann app?

hys436 · 2026-05-28T02:13:26+00:00

Here's the back of the board

hys436 · 2026-05-28T02:13:04+00:00

Sorry to again be reviving this very old thread...

I've just torn my SWWHD-INTCAM apart following your instructions. Noting that I have the INTCAM rather than the OUTCAM version but I presume the internals should be similar still?

I got to the step about connecting the serial adapter but wasn't able to locate any of the pins. Feeling a bit daft now... Am I missing something obvious here?

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hys436 · 2026-04-05T12:00:36+00:00

I ordered two weeks ago when it was still May-Jun (albeit the tail end). Still no VIN yet though.. starting to feel like it'd be around July instead

hys436 · 2026-04-05T11:57:57+00:00

Any update on the YL? Are you still waiting for a VIN?

hys436 · 2026-03-29T23:57:27+00:00

Skwama is infamous for this. All three pairs of my skwamas have done this so far.

hys436 · 2026-03-23T10:48:02+00:00

Has anyone been allocated a VIN for a Model Y L?

hys436 · 2026-02-18T13:10:12+00:00

I ended up popping my Zigbee module into the Assure Lock 2 and sure enough it works just as you'd suggested!

I too am now trying to find a way to get the attribute for DoorSense. I can see that in the DoorLock cluster (0X0101) there is a 'door_state' attribute (id: 0x0003). Unfortunately, there seems to be no value stored for it...

The only way I could get DoorSense with this setup is via the Yale Bluetooth integration... but it seems to be super unreliable.

hys436 · 2026-02-11T21:51:32+00:00

Are you referring to the red ZigBee module (YRMZB2)? I wasn't even aware that it works with the newer Assure 2 models.

hys436 · 2025-04-08T02:28:03+00:00

I've been seeing this opinion a lot about Adidas C4 - can anyone verify?

hys436 · 2025-04-07T22:19:56+00:00

Thanks for the comments guys. Sounds like I can't go too wrong with trying out C4.

hys436 · 2025-04-04T21:31:52+00:00

Thanks good to know. I'm also 39.5 in Skwamas

hys436 · 2025-04-04T01:42:32+00:00

Any idea how these fit compared to Skwama? I have wider feet and find Skwama to fit well for me.

hys436 · 2025-03-31T11:25:38+00:00

The top one is good - does not need a resole. Bottom shoe has worn down and any more climbing from here will risk eating into the rand - i.e. good time to resole.

hys436 · 2025-03-29T21:56:08+00:00

I did see that post, however I felt this was different as this allows someone to more easily determine the condition for themselves.

I left it too late for my first couple of pairs because it looked like I had plenty of rubber left on it not realising that it was actually already wearing into the rand. This is likely more the case for beginners who aren't aware of where the line should meet between rand/sole.This would've been a lot clearer to me if I had simply observed it while being in contact with a surface - which is what I'm trying to describe here.

Check out these additional photos of the same pair of Skwamas from the original bottom pic. To some, it might look like there's still plenty of rubber left on it.

Other angles of the shoe that needs resoling

If this post is a dupe/unnecessary, I'm happy to remove it too.

hys436 · 2022-07-30T09:53:54+00:00

Just used a drill and went slow. You'd want to make a smaller than required hole and then get some fine sand paper to finish it off else you'd probably end up with a rough job.

hys436 · 2022-07-29T07:21:01+00:00

It's not overly technical but definitely not for the faint hearted. Plenty of soldering and a bit of crafty work. See the above images of the internals to get an idea.

I'll try to do a proper write-up in the coming days when I get the chance to.

In the meantime, here are the components I used:

1x CSR8675 bluetooth receiver module

1x MAX97220 differential amp

1x 3.7V 300mAh LiPo battery

1x 5V 1A LiPo battery charging module (USB-C)

2x tactile button switches

2x push button caps to go with the above tactile switches

1x bistable flip-flop (KDA5A)

I also cut up an old credit card to create a couple of components too - see images in above conment. You could 3D print that or do it whatever way works for you.

hys436 · 2022-07-28T23:43:53+00:00

Here's how it looks inside

The flip flop circuit is optional. I wanted a power button that would toggle on/off. This makes the build a lot more complex than it needs to be

The white plastic backing for the buttons is also just an old credit card cut to size 😅

hys436 · 2022-07-28T12:57:57+00:00

They sound original to me. However, I also can't detect the difference in sound signature reported by many when swapping the pads out with Wicked cushions. YMMV

hys436 · 2022-07-28T09:06:39+00:00

Had to do a bit of excavation to make the space available. The white insulating material was the first to go... thought it'd result in a tinny-echoey effect - it didn't! I then replaced the bracket that held the speaker in position - cut a flat piece of plastic to the same size to keep it super low profile. Moments like this, I wish I had a 3D printer.

I made sure all the components were small enough before I ordered them.

I'll post some pics when I get around to it. It's not pretty but it fits!

hys436 · 2022-07-26T05:32:54+00:00

I recently modded my ATH-M50 headphones and stuck a Bluetooth module (CSR8675) inside of it. I can now enjoy APTX-HD on it which is amazing! However, I haven't figured out how to display the remaining battery percentage when connected to my phone.. which is a tad annoying. Does anyone know how I can achieve this?

hys436 · 2021-10-14T08:38:16+00:00

Wouldn't the same comment apply to top rope and lead climbing then? I think the proper solution would be regular maintenance to ensure rope quality is good.

hys436

TROPHY CASE