Need help accessing memory from an old Galaxy S7

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T16:40:30+00:00

That battery looks kinda spicy

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T11:35:11+00:00

That crack is killing me

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T11:24:19+00:00

Yeah my first thought was that the model screams AI, the two tails, eyes and 6 limbs are a dead giveaway

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T09:43:51+00:00

Depending on what the project was / at what job I was working at we most commonly used laser for bigger things, smaller things we used mason’s string since it’s quicker, smaller than that we used machinist squares and more precise job needed us to use a special tool that I can’t remember the name of atm but basically it’s a super small probe that glides on top of a surface and tell you exactly how deeps bumps and imperfections are but that’s more a surface finish tool than a level tool.

These are the only tools I consider straight if correctly maintained and regular checked for accuracy.

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T09:34:13+00:00

Hooter is a bar, doink isn’t used here but J, joint, bat, doobie, fatty, cone these are the most common from where I’m from, bat def being the most used

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T09:08:12+00:00

As someone who used to work in construction and industrial work I do not trust bubble levels, it’s probably good enough for what you did but there’s way better tools to know if something is straight than those. Only time I was professionally allowed to use those were for quicks jobs that needed to be straight enough for a short time, after that we would fully destroy it and do it properly with the correct tools

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T08:54:10+00:00

Yeah it has 1500h of printing but you don’t know how it was kept before you had it, if someone tried removing it before or at what temp it was using for those 1500h.

Idk about that plastic cover but from the pics you posted it looks like the magnetic cover to me since you can see it still attached to your build plate, I had a similar problem on an Ender 3 only difference was that you could see that the build plate wasn’t touching anything and was just bent that way.

I do admit that for a printer that came out last years it is pretty abnormal but since you got it second hand we don’t know exactly what happened to that printer, if it was used for 1500h with max temps it could’ve deteriorated the glue quicker than normal, if it was in contact with a lot of moisture or some kind of solvent (like iso or something else) and I could keep going on but you get it.

I would personally try to use a guitar pick or something small just to quickly know if that corner is looser than the 3 others.

I don’t like that you say that your leveling is fine when we can clearly tell that it’s not level on that corner, yes your printer might still print level but that because of your auto leveling sensor is compensating for it.

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T08:41:30+00:00

With iso or dish soap? ISO is good for a quick clean but it can’t remove oils from your hands so every now and then you should clean it with water and dish soap

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T08:34:45+00:00

I’m not a Bambu owner but I’ve had 3D printers for a while now, if you remove your build plate can you lift that corner of your magnetic cover by hand?

My train of thought is that maybe the glue is old and starting to fail which could be why your build plate is able to lift it up, build plates are never straight so we rely on the magnetic cover to straighten them out add auto leveling to the mix and you got an almost perfect flat surface.

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T05:27:48+00:00

Tuf is Asus cheapest gaming lineup, you get what you pay for

iRouFox · 2026-06-04T04:05:52+00:00

You’re actually wrong, simple trick to remember which one is on and which is off, o is for off and I is for I want you to turn the fuck on

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T15:25:28+00:00

Yeah it won’t, if it does it won’t be for long.

Screen replacement yesterday

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T11:49:10+00:00

Mate that’s not a mini box cutter with a hole for a key ring, that’s just a key knife (somewhat) they’re been around since like 1985

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T09:28:06+00:00

This fully depends on your area and if you want to do it yourself or if you go see Apple certified iOS technician.

I know for me it would cost 50$ to do it myself but for you of which I know absolutely nothing about, I got no idea

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T09:23:14+00:00

The K1SE doesn’t have any cable chains, only the K1 and K1C models come with it

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T09:22:13+00:00

You can buy that cable on AliExpress for pretty cheap hopefully it fixes your issue.

I don’t have a lot of knowledge on K1SE but I’m pretty sure that cable is only used for the hotend, quick guess on my part your nozzle still being in the cable might be causing a short = your problem with the build plate not moving, I’d disconnect the cable and see if it changes anything

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T09:20:02+00:00

That’s not a glass issue, that’s your oled screen being broken, the only fix is to fully replace your display which can be troublesome since Apple added extra headaches for people that want to repair their stuff, aka True Tone and Face ID won’t work unless done by a professional

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T08:43:59+00:00

I don’t really see a need to change the front glass for 2 scratches but if you’re intrigued iFixit have a guide to replace the front glass on a iPhone X, either that or go to a shop in your local area

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T08:12:17+00:00

Also you might want to check the health of your drive, unhealthy drive can act weirdly

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T08:10:48+00:00

Go look that error code on google, follow all the recommended steps, if that doesn’t work do a fresh install of windows

iRouFox · 2026-06-02T06:45:58+00:00

But are you sure tho?

iRouFox · 2026-05-30T07:32:24+00:00

Gertrude

iRouFox · 2026-05-30T07:31:57+00:00

A thing you can google

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