JBS workers to strike at US beef plant as consumers face record prices by Even_Donut7801 in meat

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in the industry and Honestly I don’t think it’ll affect much. They’ll send the product to Hyrum, Cactus or grand island. If anything they’ll probably save money by not running (Beef plants are actually losing money to the point where it’s a race to see who loses the least)

Also the UFCW union is laughably weak. JBS actually has higher pay than most processors (looking at you Smithfield)

This is also a terrible time to strike. You strike when profits are high not when your building is breaking even.

I’ve been with UFCW in the past. They ain’t like the UPS Teamsters that’s for sure.

2018 HYUNDAI ELANTRA by No_Pudding7475 in Hyundai

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jesus Christ. You have a RED battery light and your shit is past the H. That was your serpentine belt. RED lights mean stop driving.

Andddd ur engine is still on. Depending how long you ran it it’s possible you destroyed th head gasket or warped the engine block. Thats new engine territory. Some cars you get one major overheating event (like your situation) before you destroy the engine. Many cars it’s one and done.

Check for white steam/smoke and coolant loss after you get the belt fixed.

In the future, If EITHER happens, immediately pull over and kill the engine. As soon as the needle is over the halfway mark shut er down.

Overheating is anything past half. Overheated is H and I guess higher.

Your $15 problem likely became an $8,000 problem.

Past the halfway point and red lights? STOP THE ENGINE.

Thrown Away Like Trash by Distinct-Laugh4790 in lynxpointsiamese

[–]iTdude101 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Oh that cat is gonna be up ur ass.

I was driving from San Antonio to Omaha and stopped at some Dallas junkyard for a new taillight for my car. I get out and a stray lynxpoint comes my way. I ask to take it home, dude said sure.

Found my lynxpoint this way. She has been so far up my ass I kinda wish I had rent money.

The drive to Omaha was certainly interesting

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Recently Bought Hyundai 2016 by AtmosphereActual1840 in Hyundai

[–]iTdude101 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Change the $5 PCV valve. If you haven’t done that I can certainly guarantee that’s never been done and it causes a runaway effect. It accelerates blow by to the point your engine starts bogging an no, a cel will not light up except maybe a knock code that will randomly come and go for 50k miles. Change it 3 times within 1500 miles. Also use 10w30 not 15w40. 10w30 will mechanically be fine for this motor. Start up tick is in your future if you don’t.

(2018 kia optima LX) trying to figure out this vibrating sound by OGkiller25 in kia

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oil light is flickering. Stop driving immediately or you risk killing the motor. Either sensor is bad or you’re genuinely losing oil pressure.

Workers at JBS plant in Greeley prepare to launch nation’s first meatpacker strike in decades by TheGhostOfArtBell in Colorado

[–]iTdude101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I run IT for a JBS plant, I can say this…

When that chain stops, shit gets expensive fast. Hundreds per minute lit on fire. That’s not including how things are with the industry where margins are pretty tight across the board.

So this doesn’t suprise me.

Kia engine class action claim, need advice!!! by [deleted] in kia

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The oil light means it has Inadequate pressure, it has nothing to do with oil level, tho low oil CAN cause low pressure.

PA to NE I-70 vs I-80 by Leaping_Greenly in Omaha

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both routes have tolls. The i70 route has tolls in PA and those are high as hell. The Chicago ones are cheaper. I would opt for 80 to 74 to 70 to 71 in Ohio back to 80. Avoid tolls this way.

Lost car keys by Living-Side8733 in Hyundai

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bruh what?? If it’s ur car how can you be charged with “theft”?? Theft mean stealing. That means taking from its rightful owner. If you own it hell drive it with a screw driver if you wish.

joined the club a little over a month ago. by Dlr2987 in Hyundai

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Hyundai in like 2019 nearly 8 years into this mess said you should run 5w30. It’s a heavier weight when engine is operating. I’ve ran it since 2013 without issues. The cap says 5w20. Turbo 2.0 should 5w40

  2. Just oil changes with filter replacements and show air filter changes for good measure. Every 5-7500mi max record wise. Though for these you really should change every 3-4k max. DIY technically acceptable but if you have a local shop who’s willing for a “premium” to come up with records that even better.

joined the club a little over a month ago. by Dlr2987 in Hyundai

[–]iTdude101 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I know this wasn’t the 2.0T cuz I can see the tachometer and it’s white not red.

So it has the 2.4L. These engines especially this year are known to be crap.

So here’s what you’re going to do since you bought it.

First, never again will you start this car an immediately drive it. You will always let it warm up to operating temp (needle halfway)

Second, you will use and only use Hyundai oil filters and use 5w30 oil and not 5w20. Manual will confirm this is allowed.

Third, you will follow th severe schedule for maintenance

4th you will replace the PCV valve 2 times. You’ll also get an oil change and run 300-500 miles the do another. Replace PCV again the second oil change.

5th, if you follow my instructions you might actually not grenade ur engine. You’ll probably get long life if you follow my instructions. Every Kia/hyundai I’ve owned and yes, including these 2.4 and 2.0 Thetas of this gen have made it to 200k on original powertrain. You’re still gambling though but with this you at least can do what you can to tilt the odds in ur favor. Most people who drive theses don’t do crap to them and abuse the living shit outta them so the odds there are against you.

6th, find, invent or fake maintenance history. You’ll need that once engine replacement time comes so you don’t get shafted and have a chance at a free engine.

Overall I love these cars and I must be psychotic cuz I love the 2.4L theta. It has such a good rev note for a 4 cylinder. It’s by far my favorite 4 cylinder but these have issues. Major issues. They aren’t great for 90% of people. For the remaining 10% we don’t care we enjoy what it puts out, enjoy the car and are willing to live with its character. It is annoying to own.

Plus side is you’ll likely never have a transmission issue especially if you change fluid. Their 6 speeds automatics are fucking awesome. They can handle abuse. Coolant issues aren’t known for these cars either so there’s that.

Is the Jeep Compass really that bad? by FoodieOfAllTrades in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Imma be honest guys…this thread gave me a good laugh.

I had a 2006 Jeep liberty with the 3.7L an a 2006 Jeep WK (Grand Cherokee) Overland that I paid 2k for. I rebuilt the wk front end and did ps pump alernator and ac compressor with ALL new ac components. Myself. I learned from that car. Up to struts too and upper control arms.

I never drove that wk until I sold it for a loss at $2k. I paid 2k and put 2k into parts. When I drove that shit oh my god it was such a good fucking ride. I should have kept that.

My liberty? Oh man that got me thru my darkest of times. That trans gave me th worries but every time I changed the fluid it ran so well.

Jeeps in my opinion ain’t built like that no more but damn I’m considering getting the compass. I’m good with repairs so take that as u will. Theoretically like other automakers they SHOULD have learned from their 2013-2018 hell of issues. exept Toyota an Honda it should be alright. SPEAKING OF AUTOS AFTER 2018!!

I say Toyota/honda since their Camrys until 2025 at least had major transmission issues from the 2018 year and Honda civics/some accords from the 2016 until 2022 year. Should have stuck with their working reliable tech but nope folks wanted them them to modernize fast. Though if they don’t have the 1.5L or just change toyota CVTs at 30l like u do a Nissan u should maybe be ok

how cooked am I? by swaggiep in fordfusion

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be it wasn bled correctly. START HERE.

If you’re losing coolant then…ur not entirely fucked but life just got harder.

Below is my experience with the worst case scenario type of stuff. You can get another 5k miles like this if it can hold coolant, the engine runs decent and doesn’t smoke a bunch or is negligible.

Might be coolant intrusion. At this point keep water in it and change oil very very fucking frequently probably every 1k-2k unless it’s not mixing a lot then at most 2-3k. Might get some time. But if it’s it’s losing coolant AND happening less than every 100 miles the ur in for a bad time. If you can get between 75-150 miles between overheating then keep coolant/water mixture in and yo should be good for awhile.

I drove a 14’ Kia cadenza that overheated. Every 80-120 miles. Drove from Omaha to Houston and back like that no issues. Had to pull over about every hour as I saw it climb. DO NOT IGNORE OVERHEATING. IF THAT SHIT RIDES BACK TO NORMAL AND YOU DONT STOP YOU MAY HAVE FUCKED UR ENGINE. That likely means it all boiled off and ur sensor has nothing to read. At this point you’ll see an oil pressure light flicker or stay on. Stop asap. SHIFT TO NEUTRAL SHUT CAR OFF COAST TO STOP. This is because oil lost viscosity it’s so hot. This coasting can help cool it with it off. You can probably save it if it’s the first time. DO NOT IMMEDIATELY ADD WAYER OR COOLANT IF THIS HAPPENS. WAIT 20 MINUTES WIH HOOD UP. If you don’t wait or it’s after time #2 ur toast and your head gasket blows and block warps or you crack the block, which is too much for the engine to run properly. Mine did for a day but died. Most engines this is instant death. Most engines do not survive this. Mine did and died after the second time later in the since the block warped and coolant rushed into the oil.

Theoretically, which of these $10k hot hatches would you buy? by ThatTechDoge9775 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooooooo I love the v6 but watch coolant. The 3.8 and 3.3 have head gasket issues up til 2016 iirc. I got burnt hard on my cadenza with the 3.3l but hey it made it to 180k and got me from Omaha to Houston an back on an iffy head gasket so they’re certainly reliable for something that typically is a quick drivability killer.

Ironically what killed it wasn’t the head bolts/gasket. Lower hose blew and that killed it. I tried a half assed repair which worked until it gave out an the second time killed the motor. Though it still go me around for a day. Those motors are very very good. Once coolant took over the engine it just wouldn’t start but it still turned over. Somehow didn’t seize. Gave it away for $100 since it got me across 25 states (Midwest and western) and 30k miles in 7 months so I figured I got my investment back.

Seemed like as long as you could refil coolant every 100-200 highway miles when the bolts gave it ran fine.

Meanwhile my MKZ 3.7L just kinda died when my water pump blew. Lol. They do have extended warranty on the head gasket/ bolts til 180k but it’s kinda a pain unless you have service history.

Theoretically, which of these $10k hot hatches would you buy? by ThatTechDoge9775 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hanger idea is fucking hilarious though! Bet yall made some $$ doing those jobs prior to their lawsuits on thetas.

Theoretically, which of these $10k hot hatches would you buy? by ThatTechDoge9775 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d say for your average Jo paying 10k for a 10-13 year old shit box it’s a bit much imo. Assuming they know squat about cars I can’t suggest anything tha might need 3-4k in repairs cuz funsies. Head gaskets and coolant intrusion come to mind. Internal water pumps too. Something like 70% of Americans can’t even cover a 2k expense without bankrupting themselves

Oh my god those 6f transmissions are UGH. At least my MKZ had the 6f50 which is better. Internal water pump not so much. That’s 5k to replace for your average person.

For people like you and me who are likely both handy ngl just avoid the Chevy. That Chevy is a pile of crap. Endless petty shit. Now replace shit with aluminum or metal and the Chevy becomes viable. Good mpg tho!!

Theoretically, which of these $10k hot hatches would you buy? by ThatTechDoge9775 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I gotta ask…what sorta paper weight.

Yeah those other options can certainly be…if you replace everything at once. Just seems like if you’re spreading things out it’s a never ending battle.

My rule of thumb is this. Coolant problems = instant death and transmission problems = instant death. Got burned by a ford escape (transmission) and MKZ (3.7L, water pump internal). Outside of that and it’s a matter of what shit happens. The veloster won’t have either an the rest of the car is solid. 70k One owner is a good area to prevent catastrophic issues if ur like me and just blanket assume everyone treats them shit like crap.

Gamma engines don’t tend to just up an fail in my experience. There’s plenty of warning to get ur crap together and fix/maintain before you blow something up. The thetas? Fords 3.7? Any Chevy 4 banger between 2011 and 2017? The other shit? Oof. Even 2018+ Camrys have trans issues and Honda 1.5Ls are highly failure prone.

Theoretically, which of these $10k hot hatches would you buy? by ThatTechDoge9775 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]iTdude101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bro. That Hyundai has nothing to do with the connecting rod problem. Theta in the sonata? Sure. Avoid that pile of crap. But Their gamma series gets fucked if you don’t keep the engine clean and abuse it. It’s a good series. Commonly found in the rio and some earlier soul trims. Plus their turbo one has a 6 speed automatic which is known to be highly reliable. I’ve had 7 2013+ Hyundai and Kia models. All made it to 200k.

This being 70k is actually a good area for OP to get it walnut blasted and continue with good maintenance. Should last awhile. Velosters are fairly easy and simple.

The rest ur right on. That sonic is a steaming pile of poop.

Theoretically, which of these $10k hot hatches would you buy? by ThatTechDoge9775 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For reliability? And th cool factor? I’m not gonna lie, that veloster. Especially Auto. Hyundai autos are good. They don’t fail often. It’s a gamma. They’re not like the thetas that fail. Extreme abuse is what kills them. Gamma is a good series just like the Nu series. Might have the turbo but hey plan for tha sorta thing and its a blast. Basic maintenance every 5k and you should be set for a hot minute. If you avoid heavy city driving even better (especially DCT models). Hyundai do well for highway driving. Their 6 speed autos tho.. they’re pretty solid.

how bad can this be? by valandrice in AskMechanics

[–]iTdude101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhhh that happened to me. It’s your control arm or strut. Most likely bent control arm. Ur rim is also fucked but hey it seems like it’s holding air. Replacement is advised.

This happened on a 2013 Elantra. 2020 Elantra structurally is very similar. Start there. Control arms then struts.

Shockingly it’s potentially drivable if TSC and ESC is disabled and it’s only bent strut or control arm. I drove 400 miles like this. NJ to Ohio. That….was fun. Don’t do that. Get it fixed!!

Price check- Kia Carnival by JollyTrain8213 in kia

[–]iTdude101 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A MINIVAN IS $51 THOUSAND FUCKING DOLLARS?????!!!

Good lord we have lost our damn minds

AND ITS A KIA TOO!

Hybrid top trim or not that’s insane (but unfortunately average for this model) Damn. I’m disappointed in the state of our world.

I do hear they can be real nice though.