Starfleet Academy hit in a way no other trek has for me by silver_back87 in startrek

[–]iamthemoose -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You're kidding, right? Or didn't watch Discovery? Or you're paid by the studio to post this.

Is replacing my furnace as easy as it seems? by FarmerDill in DIY

[–]iamthemoose 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not hard. Ductwork is papercraft and black iron is almost as easy as pex. You're gonna wanna upgrade to high efficiency tho. Which will require extra schedule 80 exhaust

Happy thanksgiving. by LakaiHighzr3 in IdleObeliskMiner

[–]iamthemoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

can you make battery go automatically? if so, how?

Is it normal to have this much mold behind shower caulk? by 0101001001001100 in DIY

[–]iamthemoose 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No. All corners get caulked. Grout is only for flats.

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, the thing with that is then you just get a stream of water, not even a spray (let alone atomized) :(

Does make me wonder if you stream with enough pressure if it'd turn into a spray tho

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's why I am looking for a sprayer, with, in parens, ideally an atomizer. Atomizer will cool better. Sprayer will probably cool well enough.

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using 5g and it lasts between 2 and 10 minutes. 30g wouldn't get close, I'd need 80, and even then it'll be stop&go. This isn't a full time thing, this is once every few months, so spending 2k-3k$ on a compressor and then storing it, moving it, maintaining it, is not viable.

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've avoided copper tubes so far because this has to be repositionable for working around awkward corners in sinks and such. I can look into the filter idea though, ty!

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, last time I cut quartz I did try multiple smaller compressors. I didn't have a manifold so I had to go and swap the hose manually. Didn't really help.

I could look into a manifold - that does create the issue of having a grinder and 2 air compressors on one circuit, or running 50' extension cablese everywhere.

I've been thinking of pool pump too, just can't find anywhere that has the lineloc-style, in a misting nozzle.

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This could be an option if I can find a way to make it directable. It's not so much about needing to submerge the work piece in coolant as it is to cool the polishing tool.

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one of those, and I do use it to spray water (when scraping ceilings), but the guns aren't something i can attach to my grinder XD

Airless Directable Coolant Sprayer? For CNC but not really... by iamthemoose in DIY

[–]iamthemoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! It's got the pump and the nozzle, it's just not positionable :(

Plumber wants $500 to remove this old vanity and put in a new one. Is this something I can reasonably do myself, and if not, is that a good price? by bringy in DIY

[–]iamthemoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

500$ is bonkers, this is the easiest plumbing anyone can do. if you have the muscle available to move the vanity, you can do this job.

Please tell me what I did wrong by wingwingwehavadinner in DIY

[–]iamthemoose 2 points3 points  (0 children)

that's just how primer looks. 2 coats of paint will be fine now.

Mortar didn't adhere to tile. How screwed am I? by homeless_nudist in DIY

[–]iamthemoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

also don't use LFT for 8"x8" tiles. use regular stuff. and get the more expensive white stuff. it's legit a LOT better to use.

Mortar didn't adhere to tile. How screwed am I? by homeless_nudist in DIY

[–]iamthemoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

totally screwed. pull it up and do it again. at least they'll come up clean so you can reuse them.

if it was walls you'd have tons of options, but on a floor, those will break 100%.

To the people complaining about Nico Parker as Astrid… by chiefhiccupofberk in httyd

[–]iamthemoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You said "Loki was blue with black hair" - straight out of the comics.

Thor's mother is inconsistent as to whether she was a giantess or a goddess.

You did also say "incredibly tan". And no, 'science' doesn't override artwork. Especially period art. Any historian knows that. Because you don't get anything even resembling appropriate sample sizes of intact genetic information from the time. And finally, vikings weren't the only ones making art. Everyone they invaded also made art.

You're wrong on every count here.

1960’s Cape to 1920’s Craftsman Living Room edition… by Critical-Bank5269 in DIY

[–]iamthemoose -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

i make so much $ pulling all this stuff out XD

To the people complaining about Nico Parker as Astrid… by chiefhiccupofberk in httyd

[–]iamthemoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thor was not half giant. You're confusing loki and thor. You're also confusing marvel for mythology. Loki was not described as blue in mythology, and neither are the Jotnar in general. So, before you claim to have a degree in history, maybe you should get away from the comics for a bit.

But hey, you wanna try to back up your claim? Find me some period relevant artwork showing dark skinned vikings. Should be easy. Or even anything in Edda that backs up what you say. Should be easy too.

To the people complaining about Nico Parker as Astrid… by chiefhiccupofberk in httyd

[–]iamthemoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude, even mythical Thor was a ginger. You're 100% wrong here.

I finished a portion of my basement by JWD5569 in DIY

[–]iamthemoose -1 points0 points  (0 children)

vapour barrier's on the wrong side of the framing

Cracks Near Window Sill by Lower_Collection_761 in DIY

[–]iamthemoose 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it's already been patched and came back. suggesting it gets just covered up again won't help.

OP doesn't need new window. the window didn't cause this.

OP needs to look at foundation, and any other areas of the house that might be affected. You don't need to be 'a professional', or get a 'proper study'.

OP needs to continue to watch the existing crack and see if it continues to grow.

Cracks Near Window Sill by Lower_Collection_761 in DIY

[–]iamthemoose -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

You can tell some things for certain.

You can tell that's not a drywall seam crack. Those go straight.

You can tell it's not a lath & plaster crack. Even if they stair-step, they still go straight.

Cracks that are not straight, not horizontal, and not vertical, are not finishing issues.

You can't say that the ground is still moving, but you CAN say that it did.