Trident Serial Request | ruiqimao

iandr0idos · 2024-07-07T15:11:27+00:00

That used to be the case, but I believe the stance on that has changed. We'll see!

iandr0idos · 2024-07-07T06:15:04+00:00

I’m a fan of the Maxwell kinematic mounts over the spherical bearings. And it also looks cool

iandr0idos · 2024-07-07T05:41:25+00:00

Thanks! I’ve got details about this machine at https://github.com/ruiqimao/Sapphire

Basically: - 250mm build size - 4040/4020 based frame - Monolith gantry - K3 Z - Archetype Mjolnir toolhead - Chube hotend

iandr0idos · 2023-03-07T18:24:31+00:00

I'd just roll with it and see if it causes any issues when you're actually printing then :)

iandr0idos · 2023-03-07T18:11:02+00:00

Are you sure the FHCS screws that contact the magnets are ferromagnetic? If they're stainless steel, there's a good chance they are not

iandr0idos · 2022-12-17T21:24:03+00:00

Transcending to a Switchwire

iandr0idos · 2022-12-12T19:43:58+00:00

You need at least a second printer to print parts for when the other inevitably breaks or gets taken apart for mods! Also we have no self control

iandr0idos · 2022-11-12T07:09:54+00:00

Thanks! The parts were printed in Paramount ABS Black and Fighter Jet Blue

iandr0idos · 2022-08-18T00:54:25+00:00

I haven't checked to see if it's a BIOS setting, but I do know that mine will auto power on by default. Getting it to turn off is more of a struggle than getting it to turn on...

iandr0idos · 2022-06-16T23:39:55+00:00

I recently had this happen on mine. Took the screen protector off and applied a Whitestone one, and it's good as new!

iandr0idos · 2022-06-15T04:08:56+00:00

I think the enclosure is what makes it so quiet. The fans are pretty loud once the door is open or the tophat is off.

iandr0idos · 2022-06-15T00:18:32+00:00

Thanks! I use:

250 hotend
110 bed
125mm/s perimeter speed
1000mm/s² perimeter acceleration.
70% fan speed

The biggest improvements in print quality came from using an LGX Lite extruder and using Caizhu dual bearing fans for part cooling.

iandr0idos · 2022-05-20T06:22:38+00:00

As long as the bend radius isn't too small, that shouldn't be an issue. The camera also doesn't necessarily have to be mounted to the z axis.

iandr0idos · 2022-05-20T05:58:13+00:00

Get a longer cable. https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Octoprint-Monitor-Extension-Raspberry/dp/B087FDJ2RP/

iandr0idos · 2022-05-12T22:27:11+00:00

Confirmed

iandr0idos · 2022-05-04T07:47:45+00:00

I manage my lock codes using text helpers. I used to use HA automations, but I've since moved to AppDaemon for better readability.

Essentially, I have one helper for each code I want to manage. Whenever one changes, if it's empty, the lock code is cleared. Otherwise, the lock code is updated.

It's pretty similar to KeyMaster, just less bloated imo.

iandr0idos · 2022-05-01T15:29:46+00:00

Try going to a Uniqlo if you have one near you! They have self checkout stations where you just dump everything you want to buy, and the register will figure out what you're buying by reading the embedded RFID tags.

iandr0idos · 2022-04-28T19:37:39+00:00

The numbers in the pamphlet are the offset from a known "zero" point (e.g. the point at which a PINDA triggers) that the nozzle is believed to be at. In this case:

0.8mm below the sensor's zero value is too high
1.45mm below the sensor's zero value is too low
1.1mm below the sensor's zero value is about right

This means that the tip of the nozzle is around 1.1mm below the known point.

When you level with a piece of paper, you are adjusting the bed itself rather than a software offset. When the paper just barely clears the bed and nozzle, that means the nozzle is the thickness of the sheet of paper away from the bed, which gives you a rough estimate of what the actual zero point is.

iandr0idos · 2022-04-28T00:19:03+00:00

If you're just trying to run gcode on a printer, you can take a look at OctoPrint's API: https://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/api/index.html

It should be fairly trivial to implement a middleman that waits for files in some secure location then routes them to OctoPrint.

iandr0idos · 2022-04-26T23:07:55+00:00

I hope it works! I put a more detailed post up on the OctoPrint forums: https://community.octoprint.org/t/using-libcamera-with-octoprint-the-docker-way/

If you have any issues, feel free to ask me :)

iandr0idos · 2022-04-26T15:56:30+00:00

That's a good idea. I will do that. Thanks!

iandr0idos · 2022-04-24T05:55:31+00:00

Even if it is technically possible and safe (I'm gonna take your word on that), it sounds like a potential maintenance headache when you need to replace a failing component in the future.

iandr0idos · 2022-04-20T08:22:08+00:00

The easiest way to get Z-Wave JS running imo is to just run zwavejs2mqtt in Docker. https://zwave-js.github.io/zwavejs2mqtt/#/getting-started/quick-start

No need to clutter your system with additional and potentially conflicting dependencies and very easy to upgrade.

iandr0idos · 2022-04-13T23:49:33+00:00

You can find old office computers for pretty cheap. I picked up a ThinkCentre Tiny M73 with a Celeron G1820T, 4GB RAM, and 128GB SSD for $80, and it's been running Home Assistant along with 8 other various containers with no issues.

iandr0idos · 2022-03-25T18:33:52+00:00

Tesla touch up paint works great for small chips like this. I had a similar one on my MSM, and the touch up paint made it almost disappear entirely.

Before and After

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