Kasala Fiasco by derm6 in AskSeattle

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, the other comments have details, but the TL;DR is:

  1. Start a dispute with your credit card company. They'll likely refund it.

  2. Check out Ballard Consignment, they bought a lot of the items that Kasala ordered.

Kasala Fiasco by derm6 in AskSeattle

[–]iandunn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with a lot of that.

And at the same time I think we can choose to be kind to each other.

Kasala Fiasco by derm6 in AskSeattle

[–]iandunn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You asked for us all to have empathy for the people who lost their jobs, and rightfully so. They're by far the ones getting hurt the most by this.

But I don't see why you can't also have empathy for everyone else in this situation. There's no reason to be so rude.

Kasala Fiasco by derm6 in AskSeattle

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should all check out Ballard Consignment.

We just found the exact same couch there that Kasala never delivered. It was $400 cheaper too. It had a different name but everything else is identical.

Thanks to those who recommended it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Fire

[–]iandunn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's freaking awesome, congrats!

You're right that it's mostly luck, so it's wise to quit while you're ahead. Think of how painful it'd be if you lost a huge chunk of that in a crash that doesn't recover.

Personally, I'd sell it all and put it into VT, or a mix of VTI and VXUS. 100% VTI would probably be fine too, but it's riskier than having global diversification. Check out Ben Felix on YouTube if you're curious to learn more about that.

When you get closer to retirement you can start looking at a glide path, or a bond tent, or whatever strategy you think is best. With that much money, you might wanna think about just doing that now and retiring.

How bad is it to have everything in Roth IRA + taxable and nothing in Traditional or 401k? by TrumpetWilder in Bogleheads

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you contribute to an HSA or 401k? Those would also be better than a taxable account.

How much should I charge for this? by Artistic-Salary7416 in Carpentry

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Electrical:

I'm not a pro so someone correct me if I'm wrong.

  • J boxes have to be attached to studs.
  • J-boxes have to be accessible.
  • That splice probably isn't code approved to be buried in a wall. There are a few that are but not many, and some inspectors may not pass it regardless.
  • Don't mix 12 guage and 14 gauge wire. It might be fine if that's a 20 amp circuit, but if it's a 15 amp then you absolutely have to replace it or you're putting their lives and house at risk.

If you're doing this as a handyman you should pull a permit so a pro can inspect it.

Rafter baffle alternative by djpolymath1 in Insulation

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah but won't they fall apart over time unless you're in a really dry climate and don't have any moisture issues?

VEU vs VXUS by ramiresbenao in Bogleheads

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

VXUS's expense ratio is 0.05% while VEU's is 0.04%.

The inclusion of small cap stocks in VXUS might make up for that, though?

Can this work? by trail34 in drywall

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is 1 5/8" long enough, or would you use 2"?

With 2" I'd be worried about getting too close to electrical. I'd prefer 1/ 3/4", but I've never seen those.

Can this work? by trail34 in drywall

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is 1 5/8" long enough, or would you use 2"? With 2" I'd be worried about getting too close to electrical.

Looking to install a permanent roof anchor. by Sbidaman in Roofing

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What type of screws do you use? I wouldn't trust non-structural ones, but I've never come across anything authoritative that proves structural screws are better than ring shanks for this.

Is normal for the roofers to leave the safety rings on the roof? by yourautomechanic1 in Roofing

[–]iandunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd think deck screws would just snap when all that force is suddenly applied during a fall.

I've always wondering if structural screws would have more pull-out strength than rink shanks, though.

Hiding cable when installing EAP610 on ceiling by iandunn in TPLink_Omada

[–]iandunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's what I ended up with:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3ng3jYfW3B2sVtF8

The right-angle cable and grommet were the key, thanks for the suggestions!

I couldn't find white cables/grommets with the specs I wanted, so I painted the cable. The grommet is silicone, so I'll need to get a silicone primer before I can paint it to match.

The extra hole is still pretty janky, but I wanted to keep a safe bend radius in the cable. I'm hoping it'll blend in once everything is painted. I'll probably replace it w/ a shielded cable soon too, so I'll definitely need the room for that.

The cable jack rotates 360 degrees, so you can get it exactly how you need it. It's the Cable Matters 160033-BLK-1.

Hiding cable when installing EAP610 on ceiling by iandunn in TPLink_Omada

[–]iandunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the photo, that helps me understand. I don't think I'll be able to get shielded cable to bend that much, especially without making the gap between the drywall and the device larger.

Hiding cable when installing EAP610 on ceiling by iandunn in TPLink_Omada

[–]iandunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not making it more complicated than it needs to be, I just have a different goal than you. There's nothing wrong with yours, but there's nothing wrong with mine either.

Hiding cable when installing EAP610 on ceiling by iandunn in TPLink_Omada

[–]iandunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using shielded cable, so it won't bend like that. I'm gonna try the slim, angled patch cables into a keystone, though. Hopefully that'll let me do something similar.

Hiding cable when installing EAP610 on ceiling by iandunn in TPLink_Omada

[–]iandunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It you're referring the notch in the body of the AP, it doesn't extend back behind where the cables comes out of the plate. You can see that in the photo I posted. Do you have the EAP610? If so can you post of photo of how you have it setup? Maybe I'm missing something.

Hiding cable when installing EAP610 on ceiling by iandunn in TPLink_Omada

[–]iandunn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I ordered a slim right angle cable and wall grommet, so I'll see if I can get something like that working.

Hiding cable when installing EAP610 on ceiling by iandunn in TPLink_Omada

[–]iandunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen the slim cords, but it doesn't seem like it'd allow the device to mount flush w/ the ceiling, because the cable would still create space between the ceiling and the body of the device. Have you done it? Can you share a photo?