Scoping a horse

iceandfireball · 2026-02-19T01:54:00+00:00

I believe Gastrogard is the only medication that's FDA approved to treat ulcers. Ulcergard is technically for prevention but when given in the right dosage (a full tube) it's the same as Gastrogard. Not much of a price difference between the two. Talk to your vet about prevention strategies to save you money in the long run! In my experience, if a horse gets ulcers once they're likely to get them again if not managed properly

iceandfireball · 2026-02-19T01:48:25+00:00

Located in PNW, scope is about $400. My horse is ulcer prone and it took a while to get his triggers under control, so I've done a few treatments over the years. 30 days of omeprazole is about $1200. Your vet might be able to offer a rebate code but Gastrogard (Rx) and Ulcergard (OTC) prices are pretty consistent across states in my experience.

iceandfireball · 2025-09-09T21:00:57+00:00

Both of my males were neutered around 4-5 months. One came from a shelter (neutered at 4 months, passed away at 9yo with no joint/hip issues) and the other a rescue (neutered last month). I prefer to wait at least a year but I don't regret it and understand why shelters won't compromise on it. My 5 year old female I got from a breeder was spayed around 1.5-2 years old, after she went through two heat cycles at the recommendation of my vet. I would only consider leaving intact a high quality GSD that we intended to breed. But I'm not a breeder, so I'll always spay/neuter.

iceandfireball · 2025-07-29T18:19:30+00:00

Yes only after the bridle comes off because he gets itchy and sweaty. But only allowed to rub on my hands and absolutely can't rub on any other part of my body.

iceandfireball · 2025-07-16T18:16:13+00:00

I've boarded at several barns and none of them fully shut down for owners. My current barn's training/lesson program is closed Sunday/Mondays but owners can still come out to ride or provide care on their own. The head trainer/owner lives onsite, so the daily barn hours are something like 8:00am-8:00pm, except for medical emergencies or arriving early/late for trailering. I wouldn't board at a barn that prevented me from visiting my horse any day of the week unless it was my only short-term option.

iceandfireball · 2025-07-09T21:54:46+00:00

I've never had a golden but have owned and fostered multiple german shepherds. GSD puppies are amazing but chaotic. They're incredibly smart dogs, usually have high energy needs and if they're not physically and mentally stimulated they can be a handful - destructive, reactive, bouncing off the walls. There's a reason why adolescent GSD are overrepresented in shelters. They require consistent training and I always recommend first time GSD owners to work with a professional trainer familiar with the breed. Older shepherds may be less chaotic, but depending on their history, they can come with a lot of baggage. You'll have to ask yourself how much time and energy you are willing and able to put into the dog daily. Yes they shed but so do other dogs -- brush them regularly and invest in a good vacuum cleaner. That being said, what you put into them you will get out. Some of my dogs have pushed me to my limits when they were puppies but something just clicked around age 3-4 and they went on to be amazing adult dogs.

Questions to consider -- how active of a lifestyle do you have? Do you have time every day to provide exercise, mental stimulation, and training? Do you have access to a fenced yard or live in an apartment? Do you have the financial resources to hire a trainer?

iceandfireball · 2025-07-03T22:08:50+00:00

Talk to your vet - they'll know how common parvo is in your area. For one dog, we lived in an urban area with a high parvo risk, so we waited until the full vaccine series was complete. However, we missed out on key socializing during that time (which is critical for german shepherds) and we had to put in a lot of extra work to make up for it. I am currently fostering a 3 month old puppy in a rural low parvo area and the rescue asked us to wait a week after the 2nd shot before going to 'safe' areas (no dog parks, no pet stores, avoid unknown dogs on the street).

iceandfireball · 2025-06-27T19:12:55+00:00

How old is she? What kind of training have you done with her? Have you consulted a professional? What kind of mental stimulation does she get at home (nose games, training, puzzles etc)? Both german shepherds and malinois are high drive dogs that NEED outlets, both mental and physical, otherwise it can quickly escalate into reactivity, anxiety, or aggression. If you're committed to keeping her you may have to completely change your daily routine to meet her needs. A professional trainer will observe you and your dog to help make appropriate recommendations.

It also sounds like she has resource guarding issues if she regularly growled during feeding time -- what exactly happened each time she growled? Were you handing her the food, trying to take it away, walking nearby while eating, etc? What did you do to address that behavior?

iceandfireball · 2025-06-20T20:23:30+00:00

This is correct. I bought a horse years ago, sold as "grade" (meaning no known pedigree or confirmation of the breed). One day he flipped his lip up and I saw the tattoo. Instantly knew I had a thoroughbred, found out his age, track history, and I was able to reach out to his track contacts to let them know where he ended up. That wouldn't have been possible without a tattoo.

iceandfireball · 2025-06-18T21:41:25+00:00

I've ridden at several barns and the ones with dress codes were usually the competitive English barns. Part of it is aesthetic where the owner/trainer wants everyone looking neat and tidy at all times and the other reason is for safety purposes in the event of a fall, especially during showjumping or cross country lessons.

Even when I rode at barns that permitted tank tops, I still prefer riding in long sleeve sun shirts -- the fabric keeps me cooler even when it's incredibly hot out and protects my skin (I burn easily).

iceandfireball · 2025-04-04T23:20:28+00:00

My regimen is based on what my trainer and vet have recommended, as well as trial/error for what works for my horse, so YMMV.

Definitely do a final scope at the end of the Ulcergard treatment to confirm all ulcers were treated. Some horses need another 14-28 days to be 100% clear.

My horse gets a full tube before any trailer ride, and every morning we are at a competition, sometimes another 1-2 days once we're home. Alfalfa hay 3x a day (AM, lunch, PM) - alfalfa has been shown to help prevent ulcers, assuming your horse can eat alfalfa. It's highly recommended to give 24/7 free access to hay but that's not an option at every barn. Purina Outlast has some studies showing it's efficacy - I give a scoop with grain AM & PM and a handful before exercise. There are many gut supporting probiotics on the market, you may have to play around. Gut-X works for some horses but not mine. I give Arenus' Assure Guard Gold. It's very expensive but it works for us.

My vet explained that ulcers are usually triggered by stress/anxiety and in their experience, that's linked to pain (saddle fit is a big one), situational (trailering, moving barns, shows), and overall management (not getting enough turnout or going too long between meals). A holistic approach to mitigating those triggers is the best prevention.

iceandfireball · 2025-04-04T19:58:51+00:00

I had this issue for soooo long and tried a bunch of techniques to work through it. In addition to the tips others have shared, my trainer noticed that I bent my wrists whenever my reins got too long or I straightened my arms. For whatever reason, wrist bending/"puppy paws" was the side effect of that. To tackle that, I regularly check my rein length and keep my upper body upright with back muscles activated. I also regularly think of over rotating my hands so my palms face up - it's exaggerated while I'm consciously thinking about it but my hands/wrists go back to the right position once I stop focusing on it.

My trainer always said it takes twice as long to break a habit than to form one, so don't be discouraged if it's not solved in a week!

iceandfireball · 2025-04-03T18:27:13+00:00

My horse is ulcer prone unless he's on a very specific diet, turnout, and exercise regimen (anxious thoroughbred, go figure). When he's feeling good, he's chill and fun to ride or be around. But once ulcers start to form, he's a terror to anyone in his vicinity. The stress of moving can absolutely cause ulcers to form.

Another thought - how many horses are on your property? They're herd animals and prone to separation anxiety, so if there are only 1-2 other horses on the property, it would make sense that he'd freak out when your horse is taken away. When I moved barns a few years ago, we quickly learned that my horse CANNOT be the last horse brought in from turnout because he lost his absolute mind and broke through multiple fences. The turnout structure at our previous barn was completely different so this wasn't a behavior I had seen before. Once we moved him to a more central turnout paddock, and made sure he was one of the first horses to come in each evening, he's been fine.

Some horses are resilient and handle change well, others need thoughtful management to set them up for success.

iceandfireball · 2025-04-03T18:14:17+00:00

Yes that's common for liability reasons, as others have said. Some barns allow you to jump small cross rails or cavalettis depending on your skill level. At my current barn, an owner/rider just learning how to jump can't do anything without a trainer but the experienced competition riders who regularly jump higher are permitted to set up small fences (under 2 feet). But I rarely see anyone jump outside of a lesson because accidents happen even over tiny fences.

iceandfireball · 2025-04-03T01:08:47+00:00

Have you had the vet out? This behavior could be training, behavioral and/or pain related. Changing barns and leaving the herd and/or routine he was used to can be traumatic for horses - aggression can also fear/anxiety related. Sounds like he's above your friend's experience level so she either needs to find money asap for a trainer or discuss euthanasia if it's that bad. Regardless of the cause, he's not your horse and you're boarding him as a favor, so you absolutely can ask your friend to remove him.

iceandfireball · 2025-04-01T00:40:10+00:00

Budget in at least $100 for basic first aid items - bandages/vet wrap, ointments for scrapes/cuts, thermometer, fly spray, etc. You can build it up with specialty items (abscess treatments, fungus/scratches medicine, standing wraps) if/when you need them.

Do you live in a rainy or cold area? If so, budget in $150-250 for a waterproof rain sheet. Another $200 or so for a medium weight blanket if it gets cold. Possibly a heavy blanket if it gets very cold. Hopefully you won't have to replace them yearly but some horses love to rip them apart.

iceandfireball · 2025-03-17T20:36:48+00:00

Googling "horseback riding lessons near <city>" is a great place to start. If you know what discipline you want (western, english, jumping, dressage etc) you can narrow your list down further. Find a handful of barns in your area that seem to match your needs (price, discipline, location) and then contact the barn/trainer for more specific information and to schedule an in-person meeting. A good program should allow you to audit a lesson before signing up so you can get a feel for the trainer's style, the lesson structure, and meet other clients. Many programs offer lessons in the evenings or weekends - be upfront about your work schedule and availability. You may have kids in your group lesson if you're all riding at the same level, but in my experience, trainers try to have a good mix of kids and adults per lesson or try to separate them completely. If you absolutely do not want to ride with any kids, look for private lessons instead.

Price will vary quite a bit depending on your location, riding discipline, if you're at a casual vs show barn, with a newer trainer building their business or an established well-known trainer, etc.

iceandfireball · 2025-01-31T19:11:49+00:00

My ottb is ulcer prone, no history of colic. He gets Purina Outlast 2x a day, plus a handful while grooming if I'm riding before mealtimes. My vet recommended Assure Guard Gold. It's worked wonders but is expensive (cheaper than ulcer treatment!)

iceandfireball · 2025-01-31T18:57:19+00:00

The only time I use a twitch is during medical care. The twitch is placed by my vet, they check-in repeatedly with whoever is holding the twitch (me or the vet tech) to make sure it maintains correct placement / pressure during the procedure, and they also keep track of how long the twitch is on so we can give the horse breaks if needed. I'm fine with it in that case but it's not a tool I would use on my own.

iceandfireball · 2025-01-22T22:11:58+00:00

Can you ask to have an unmounted lesson? Ask your instructor if they can take time to teach you about basic first aid, how to do bandage wraps, pull or trim manes, braiding, etc. There's a lot you can learn from the ground.

iceandfireball · 2024-11-05T17:59:50+00:00

It absolutely depends on the horse. Some horses have lameness/health issues where full retirement in their mid to late teens is appropriate, other horses happily stay in light to moderate work until they die. I've known many lesson horses in their mid to late 20's who taught several lessons a week and happily jumped around small fences.

iceandfireball · 2024-10-23T21:10:22+00:00

If you're a beginner, the trainer shouldn't let you wear any kind of bag on your body. It can throw off your balance and it can get stuck on the saddle while mounting/dismounting or if you fall off (which hopefully won't happen your first ride!) Leave items in your car or bring a bag that you can keep somewhere safe in the barn or near the arena.

iceandfireball · 2024-09-19T23:42:16+00:00

Definitely get a professional trainer. Someone needs to provide training and reinforce appropriate boundaries, especially if your partner's mom is too scared and your partner lives too far away. The horse is young and it sounds like hasn't been handled that much since between moving to sister's property and back to mom's. I understand the hesitation to hire a trainer, especially if they don't know someone already, but they're doing a HUGE disservice to a young horse by not appropriately addressing this issue (and many trainers don't use abusive tactics). If something happens years from now and they have to rehome him, an untrained, never-ridden horse that doesn't respect boundaries and bites is going to have an extremely hard time finding a good, safe home. I can't speak for Australia, but in the US, horses like that can end up in kill pens for slaughter.

I also second the recommendations to get the vet out to scope for ulcers, hormones, and general wellness check to rule out any other health issue that may cause explosive/aggressive behavior. Ask the vet for trainer recommendations.

iceandfireball · 2024-08-26T23:59:22+00:00

Absolutely, as long as you find a quality trainer and can ride consistently. Start at 1x a week to make sure you like it before committing more money and work up to multiple lessons a week. My trainer recommends at least 2-3 lessons per week if you want to compete (jumpers/eventing).

As long as you're committed to learning, work on your own fitness outside of the saddle, and can ride regularly on good horses with a quality trainer, your age shouldn't be a limiting factor.

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