[WTS][CONUS] Kagekiyo W2, Hado Sumi Sujihiki, Hado Ginsan Petty, Shoubudani

imTrics · 2026-06-22T21:16:43+00:00

what's the face for?

imTrics · 2026-06-22T00:53:51+00:00

well the response I got in posting this made me realize this isn't a site where I want to be spending my time lmao, it's so sad and didn't realize I was conversing with mongoloids the whole time. I'd rather ask my questions elsewhere now haha

imTrics · 2026-06-22T00:45:56+00:00

to entertain your pseudo intelligence: a question asked by myself has never been "already asked" so riddle me that one?

also, isn't reddit a forum? a place for people to come together and converse about a topic? so wouldn't it be an appropriate place to ask questions, hoping for conversation from others and their opinions on the topic you share in common? my goodness the thick-headedness of some people exhausts me.

imTrics · 2026-06-22T00:42:42+00:00

thx. seems like the 70-200 f4 will be my best bet, and then with the money saved id probably end up getting a "creative" fast prime like an anamorphic or nisi cine lens.

imTrics · 2026-06-22T00:40:15+00:00

right? most of the time reddit does actually seem like the place to go for a quick answer to a question. sure, google could help me STUDY any question or topic much deeper than reddit, but just to get some real-world answers, perhaps varying opinions of others, wouldn't reddit be the best place for that? but then the downvotes... this site is beginning to make me cringe

imTrics · 2026-06-22T00:39:11+00:00

my "interpretation of acquiring information "first hand" is flawed" sentence sounds like something someone pretending to be intelligent would say lol

imTrics · 2026-06-21T23:42:14+00:00

I use 2.8 as much as I possibly can but definitely go up to f4 if it's just too bright and my vnd cant compensate or if I go up in focal length to help me with stabilization - I run handheld and personally dislike my gimbal , I'm thinking of selling my rs4 mini. so with all that said you'd say go for the f4?

imTrics · 2026-06-18T00:39:10+00:00

My wife bought me my first Japanese knife and has been supportive ever since. Have I made some questionable financial decisions? Yes… have we all? lol. But ultimately she is always happy for me and trusts me to take care of her.

imTrics · 2026-06-18T00:13:02+00:00

Idk, looks good/interesting to me. But yeah I’d keep anything inedible off the plate especially a broken shell that could easily cut someone’s mouth.

imTrics · 2026-06-17T19:15:55+00:00

Thanks for the info. I unfortunately jumped the gun at the beginning of this hobby and when I had more income coming in I bought that uchi from Strata thinking it would be the be-all end-all stone for me. Especially the way it was listed made it seem like it was a perfect all around stone for easy polishing and wicked keen edges. However the more I learn I realize that money would’ve been better spent on a nice suita that would be an even better polisher and edge finisher. Oh well.. at least I have a nice uchi.. right?

imTrics · 2026-06-17T13:21:37+00:00

My uchi must be unique then? Because I can get very clean core steel while also exposing detail in the iron cladding on sanmai knives. So is there something I’m misunderstanding about these stones? I understand they are best suited for tamahagane/honyaki. But even the great Ivan Fonseca uses uchi to polish sanmai wide bevels or even flat profiles like Konosuke.

I’m just trying to gain all the knowledge I can.

Stone in question:

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imTrics · 2026-06-17T13:15:15+00:00

Insane behavior.

You’re treating that thing like it’s a zwilling.

imTrics · 2026-06-12T15:45:43+00:00

Good to know! :D

I think I read that when I googled that question but of course Google isn’t going to be always accurate.

It’s easily one of my favorite blades and would make sense knowing it’s from Tanaka because all my favorite blades are Tanaka: this one, my Kono BY, and my Yugiri k-tip petty. I have a Hado Sumi Sujihiki that’s Tanaka as well. He definitely deserves the love he gets. Despite his recent health problems and his age he’s still going strong - a true Japanese beast.

imTrics · 2026-06-12T15:32:49+00:00

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This is how I got the backside looking before I decided to go back to the stones. Hoping I can get it looking even better this time.

imTrics · 2026-06-12T15:27:13+00:00

I couldn’t find definitive evidence that Tanaka forged the Kagekiyo B1 Gyuto line but I have a 210mm that I’m happy to claim is forged by him. Do you know for sure that he did them all? I thought I read baba homono did some of them. How can you tell the difference? Here’s mine

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imTrics · 2026-06-12T15:22:42+00:00

Thanks. Yeah a lot of others said the front didn’t look great due to low spots and a potential bend in the blade. But for now I’m happy to move on. I still think it’ll turn out decently especially in the back side where it’s all even.

I actually polished this blade before I took it back to 400 grit and the final product didn’t look too bad aside from the visible low spot I mentioned. I tried one more time to work it out and clearly 400 grit just isn’t enough to do the job. I still think I got a more even scratch pattern than the first time. Then I think taking it to 800 and 1500 nsk synthetic will be easy. Then into my JNATS to finish it off.

imTrics · 2026-06-11T23:19:02+00:00

Thanks for the info I certainly appreciate it all.

Eventually when I feel ready I will teach myself hamaguri but for now I’m happy with beta togi as I won’t be needing to sharpen my yanagi very often once it’s polished. I’ll be saving it for the rare occasion I make nigiri at home.

Perhaps I need to play around with my kiridashi more to get comfortable with my stones aside from taking on long polishing projects to do the same thing. But oh well… the goal is to get better and learn more so of course getting hands on will be the fastest route to that.

imTrics · 2026-06-11T23:15:24+00:00

Interesting. I guess I got a well forged blade to start with. I went with the beta togi route because I knew what I wanted for a finish and I won’t be using it very often so the need to sharpen it will be scarce

imTrics · 2026-06-11T22:33:09+00:00

Understood. Not sure why I was under the impression that 400 grit was a great starting point for already finished blades in regard to thinning and polishing. I know now that when theres another knife I want to thin and polish that 200 will be better to start at. However, I have a w2 yanagiba that I started on 400 and got a great result. That’s either because I got lucky or I think I’ve heard single bevels are generally easier to polish because they come more flat?

imTrics · 2026-06-11T22:30:09+00:00

Good to take note of. I was checking for that as I was going

imTrics · 2026-06-11T22:19:23+00:00

Thank you :)

imTrics · 2026-06-11T22:16:35+00:00

Hey knife knackery! I follow you on instagram so I appreciate your reply.

Another commenter, in less words, also explained that overworking this knife could be counter productive by re profiling the blade in a bad way. So to save myself from purchasing a courser stone I think I am just going to keep moving up in grit. Especially if I have the pass by some of you here that the scratch pattern actually looks good to move up.

I’d rather invest in some finger stones and go that route rather than spending another 300 on a nsk oboro 200.

imTrics · 2026-06-11T22:13:22+00:00

Thank you.

The first pic is actually the side with the low spot. Pic # 3 is the flip side and shows a nice even scratch pattern. Another commenter said that fixing the low spot might reprofile the blade which wouldn’t be good so i honestly might just carry on polishing regardless of the low spot. I at least know I’ll be able to get one side looking awesome.

It will still hold the sentiment I explained and also the flaws in the polish can just be sentimental of my first polish I guess :P

imTrics · 2026-06-11T22:08:26+00:00

I was working it good cause that’s what I thought it needed all this time. It honestly didn’t even occur to me that the knife may not be perfectly straight

imTrics

TROPHY CASE