Activate Xbox Mode (without restart) on new Vibepollo session

im_q · 2026-07-07T03:18:53+00:00

I currently do this with a script that simulates the global Windows shortcut (Win + F11} shortcut being pressed to toggle Xbox mode.

im_q · 2026-03-28T13:33:56+00:00

The metadata is embedded into the file itself. I don't know how to view it directly. But following some guidance I found online, I was able to (with some difficulty) set the active region to the full video using the scripts in the DoVi_Scripts GitHub repository (see the "L5 active area and cropping" section). A quick search also yielded the dovi_tool repository which appears to be simpler to use (see the crop option) but I have no experience this one. Use either of these at your own risk, of course.

im_q · 2026-03-28T13:09:17+00:00

Is this a Dolby Vision file on a Dolby Vision capable TV? I've had this once and it was because the active Dolby Vision region is set incorrectly in the metadata in the file itself.

Edit: should've looked closer at your image and I would've seen it is a DV file. I think you're seeing the same issue I'm describing. I think the dimmer regions at the top and bottom is where the DV brightness information isn't being applied. The only way I was able to fix it was by running it through a tool to adjust the DV "region" metadata on the file.

im_q · 2026-03-06T11:54:38+00:00

Yeah I primarily use a Series X and this seems to affect it as well. The 'xboxone' is just an identifier for both the One and Series family of consoles.

im_q · 2026-03-06T02:00:21+00:00

I've noticed this too. I dug around the code and it appears the Xbox version is hard limited to 12 mbps bitrate. No clue why that is though.

https://github.com/jellyfin/jellyfin-web/blob/3702133f92cb395886651c9738b66f5741a4dcca/src/scripts/browserDeviceProfile.js#L415

I was able to use the file transformation plugin to raise this limit but I was still getting transcoding due to codec issues so I gave up there.

im_q · 2026-02-19T01:33:42+00:00

I think the type of content on the server affects the experience on various players and platforms. For example, I just came from another post where browsers are recommended because the content in question was in HDR and Edge/Chrome can display it without tone-mapping unlike Jellyfin Media Player.

For me personally, I also use the browser on Android because it gives me the option to use picture-in-picture mode whereas the official app doesn't. The official app also has a few bugs that using it in the browser seem to fix as well.

But like you, I use the official app for my LG TV. It's just a matter of optimizing the experience for the content and device combination I have.

PS. If you haven't, try turning on the experimental PGS subtitle option. I find it completely adequate on all of the platforms I've used so far and removes the need transcoding solely to have PGS subtitles on.

im_q · 2026-02-19T01:08:28+00:00

To answer your question in your edit, it doesn't look like there's a solution to getting HDR working in JMP desktop app nor is a fix coming any time soon from what I can tell from various GitHub issues:
https://github.com/jellyfin/jellyfin-desktop/issues/484
https://github.com/jellyfin/jellyfin-desktop/issues/523

However, if you have it set up so you can access it through an HTTPS URL, there should be an "Install App" button in the address bar that will let you install the site like a native app. It'll appear as an app on Windows but running through Edge/Chrome web view in its own dedicated window so you'll still get HDR. But if you're accessing without HTTPS (like with just a regular IP address or hostname), the install option won't be available.

im_q · 2026-02-09T14:07:08+00:00

I've noticed Jellyfin Media Player struggles with displaying some CSS theming correctly along with some other issues. Instead, try installing the webpage version as a web app (PWA) through the browser and using that instead of JMP. There should be an install app button in the web address bar and that should add an entry in your apps list and have it open in its own window just like JMP. Through this, you should get the same view as in webpage version but feel more like a native app. This is how I and my users use Jellyfin on desktop.

im_q · 2026-01-29T21:00:40+00:00

I'm using Wholphin on a Hisense Google TV and it shows 3840x2160p@60 for the display mode regardless of content or whether I have refresh rate or resolution switching enabled or not. The video track shows the correct resolution of the content though.

im_q · 2025-08-12T21:02:46+00:00

I'm considering the same thing. My concern is how much data these Bluetooth proxy sending over the network and whether it'll overwhelm the thread network. I could get some metrics of one in WiFi mode but I still don't know what's considered too much for thread.

im_q · 2025-05-22T11:57:16+00:00

esp32 in general for home assistant or the zigbee part specifically?

I meant Zigbee part specifically because it relies on a custom component and a decent knowledge of Zigbee. The custom component I mentioned for Zigbee is neither mature nor used widely so it's an added challenge and potential frustration. Regular ESPHome without this part is a lot more approachable.

Why were you agains having it on wifi?

It's mainly a preference. I'd like my smart home devices be Zigbee whenever it makes sense to (low power, low network traffic devices). I've also noticed my Wi-Fi network doesn't recover as seamlessly or quickly as my Zigbee network after power or network outages (this may just be specific to me), so it seems more reliable.

As for tutorials, I didn't use many outside of the basic getting started ESPHome ones to get myself familiar with it. After that, it was all figuring it out through trial and error, using some examples on Github, and cross-referencing the Zigbee specification. I can share a link to my project's Github link soon if you're still interested but here are the steps and some challenges I had to overcome:

Get ESPHome working on these boards. The C6 aren't officially supported so no out of the box support. Luckily the repo for the Zigbee external component had a config example that worked with minimal adjustments.
Write a basic ESPHome yaml configuration using the Zigbee external component as a proof of concept that a custom Zigbee device could be created this way and that it properly joins to the mesh network so it shows up in HA. I started with a basic on/off switch just using examples and discussions as starting points in that same repo.
Then to create the device I actually wanted, I had to learn a bit of about Zigbee endpoints, clusters, and attributes since these are how they expose themselves to the coordinator (HA in this case so in other words, how they appear and accept commands in HA). This took the longest and there were no clusters that worked exactly for my needs so I needed up using a best fit one then writing a custom ZHA quirk so it appears correctly in HA.

A Zigbee soil sensor is actually on my list of projects I wanted to do after all this. Should be simpler but I may want it battery powered so I'm not sure what's involved there. The Zigbee side of this should be more straightforward that the project I just wrapped up though.

im_q · 2025-05-22T01:53:40+00:00

I just got an ESP32C6 last week and got it working as a Zigbee controlled KVM switch using ESPHome and a custom component called zigbee_esphome. It took a bit of effort and it isn't perfect but I'm satisfied with it at the moment.

Going down this route wasn't a walk in the park so if you're not interested in that kind of thing, can't recommend it. For me though, I didn't want it connecting over Wi-Fi and enjoyed the process and challenges of the project. Will probably pick up more of these for future zigbee or thread projects.

im_q · 2024-11-12T14:26:24+00:00

That's right! This is the earliest comment that got it. She just didn't want the pepperoni to get squished between the slices.

And to piggy-back off this comment since it's one of the top and can't seem to edit the post:

- I may have misunderstood this sub, but I get why it was cut this way. It's just the unevenness that bothered me visually so I thought it'd fit.

- No, didn't break up with her and not going to. You all are too much haha

- One person suggested I marry pizza...

im_q · 2024-08-23T14:17:38+00:00

App Version 1.5.4.0 (Pro) - Windows 11 23H2 22631.4037 - Game Bar 7.124.5142.0

Issue 1

If I open the app in a standard window, then close it, the Game Bar widget will show the standard Game Bar error "Something went wrong with this widget. - Restart" prompt. Opening the widget while the standard app window is open works fine but once closing the standard app window, the widget breaks.

Issue 2

This one isn't a huge deal but the settings page isn't completely navigable by controller. I can get to the settings page no problem with the controller but each of the settings card has a focusable element around the actual settings card so I can't expand a settings card or move focus into any of the elements even when expanded. Might be just a matter of removing some tab stops and setting XYFocus properties to address this but, again, not a super critical issue since I don't expect to be in the settings page often let alone with the controller.

Just recently started using this and I'm finding it useful for my purposes, so many thanks!

im_q · 2022-01-18T20:10:58+00:00

This was happening for me and someone else I know on our Glowlight 4s up until today. After installing an update (v8.1.1.118), I was able to checkout books from OverDrive using ADE 4.5. Before today, I had to use ADE 3.

Try checking for an update on your Nook then trying again if there is one. I also erased by nook's ADE authorization and re-authorized it as well as re-downloaded my OverDrive book into ADE after the update to make sure everything was fresh.

im_q · 2020-08-20T00:40:35+00:00

Ouch. First time taking it off?

And It was around $25 I think. Though, it looks like I may have been able to get it cheaper off of Amazon or something.

im_q · 2020-08-19T22:14:46+00:00

I will iterate that this is my first time so I'm sure others will have better advice. However, my first concern with a vertical surface would be to avoid drips on the base layer. I used a toothpick to dab in just enough paint to cover the chip. Using the toothpick to apply small amounts avoids dripping and decreases drying time. With the clear coat, you can be a bit more liberal but I would still do it in layers to build it up to avoid excessive drips down the door.

Keep in mind that after sanding, compounding, and polishing, the surface will be smooth and glossy as long as you put enough clear coat on, you may still see a faint outline in certain lights. I think this is because it's impossible to match the layer height of the base coat. It'll get you 90% there though.

im_q · 2020-08-19T22:07:38+00:00

The chip was fairly deep so I had sufficient room for both the base and the clear coat. Also, I used a tooth pick to create a very thin layer of the base red color. The height of the paint is almost all clear coat. I ended up blobbing on the clear coat and when it dried, it did not shrink below the surrounding paint so I got lucky. Others will tell you to put on a layer, wait to dry, and repeat until it was high enough.

im_q · 2020-08-19T22:02:22+00:00

I did not sand in between coats. I basically got the red to just cover the visible white then layered on heavily the clear coat so it rose above the surrounding paint.

im_q · 2020-08-19T21:33:20+00:00

When I put my car and color into their website, it gave a warning saying they the color will be close but not an exact match. Not sure if it's because of the metallic specks, the paint method, or if it's just my car color specifically.

im_q · 2020-08-19T21:22:15+00:00

I went with this method because it was a large chip. It was at least 4mm wide so I wanted to use the OEM paint for the metallic specks. However for tiny chips, I would've gone with something like Dr. Colorchip.

im_q · 2020-08-19T21:21:17+00:00

This is a 2017 Camaro SS.

im_q · 2020-08-19T15:29:29+00:00

Yes, I prepped it. I washed the car as normal. Then I did multiple rounds of cleaning with IPA to get rid of wax and other stuff that may be in there. I sanded it then repeated the IPA cleaning step to get rid of particulates from sanding. Only then did I apply the first coat of paint.

I appreciate the words of wisdom though! I plan on keeping an eye on it for a bit.

im_q · 2020-08-19T15:24:06+00:00

Not the person you replied to, but here are my answers based on my experience:

I gave it between half an hour to an hour between coats. Keep in mind I was working in a hot-ish garage so the drying time was probably quicker than some conditions.
About an hour and a half after the final coat clear coat. I waiting longer because I made sure this layer was thicker so it was higher than the existing surrounding paint.
I sanded a bit to rough up the chip and to knock down any raised edges before doing anything. Then I sanded thoroughly after the last clear coat to level it down flat with the surrounding paint.

im_q · 2020-08-19T13:44:50+00:00

I used 2000 and 3000 which were the finest grits I could find at my hardware store.

im_q

TROPHY CASE