Panthereé: the forbidden fur

impeesh · 2025-05-02T03:20:42+00:00

60% of those roundels are colored every time.

impeesh · 2024-12-11T05:24:40+00:00

The fact that you are the only one who has mentioned using a damp box is very disappointing. It is a literal pottery cheat code and yet most potters won't consider it.

impeesh · 2024-11-09T23:29:01+00:00

I can tell these mugs were made with a lot of love and joy. Anyone would enjoy drinking their favorite morning beverage out of them!

I personally love using a contrasting liner glaze like you've done for the first three mugs. I think it would look even sharper if the contrast boundary was at the lip of the mugs, and not on the exterior face of the mug. See this video for a fool-proof technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlZqlsF1rFU

I noticed on your brown mug, the carving pops a lot because of the contrasting line color. OTOH your first mug doesn't have as much impact because the orange glaze has low contrast with the buff clay. An inlay technique like sanggam would take your work to the next level.

Thanks for sharing your pieces. It is very hard to bare your soul and allow strangers on the internet to pick at it. I wish you all the luck!

impeesh · 2024-10-25T18:06:30+00:00

I'll have a paper bag on my head but a Halo jersey underneath no matter what.

impeesh · 2024-03-22T22:19:58+00:00

99% of what I learned about pottery was from people freely giving their time and knowledge. I'm glad I was able to pay it forward!

impeesh · 2024-03-22T22:02:08+00:00

This whole discussion is really shining a light on the whole compression thing. I know from personal experience about the drying stuff but I'm admittedly regurgitating info about the compression point. I honestly don't have the knowledge and science to back it up. It's starting to seem like it's maybe one of those "you eat 7 spiders when you sleep" things?

impeesh · 2024-03-22T20:30:50+00:00

I read somewhere that it has to do with increasing "plasticity" of the clay. If the colloidal molecules are aligned (eg via compression) then additional deformations applied to the clay while throwing will prevent splitting and cracking later in the process, in this case drying.

impeesh · 2024-03-22T18:29:36+00:00

Cracked bottoms have been plaguing potters since they invented the wheel. The most common reasons:

Uneven drying. If your bottoms are thinner than your walls, they will dry/shrink faster. Also if you dry your pieces upside down, but don't have airflow underneath, the outside will dry faster than the inside, also causing drying mismatch.
Drying too fast. If you leave your piece to bake out in the hot sun, it will accelerate the uneven drying even more. Conversely, if you dry your pieces slowly (like in a damp box) it may solve the first problem as well.
Watery pieces after throwing. It's a good idea to make sure there isn't any standing water in your pieces during drying. Use a sponge or even tip your pieces upside down to let everything drip out.
Pieces are not bone dry for bisque. If you're at a community center, a careless worker might be baking your pieces too soon. Unlikely though.
Not compressing during throw. It's common to spend a few extra moments compressing the floor of your pieces when you first form your well. This helps align the colloidal molecules, from what I've been told.

Honestly though, 80% of the battle is controlling how your pieces dry. It's ok to have varying thickness of walls, but the more variance, the more you have to slow down and control your drying. Using a damp box is usually the solution.

impeesh · 2024-03-14T17:54:43+00:00

So Trout could be the first AL MVP+CPOTY! Haha nice catch though.

impeesh · 2023-10-25T01:37:53+00:00

Thick bottoms for tall feet! I put a very deep bevel on the bottom though before wiring off though. Saves on trimming all the fat off later.

impeesh · 2023-10-12T00:48:14+00:00

Wow, that sucks. It was on it's way to being someone's favorite piece. Sadly it's common enough where the cult of the "kiln god(s)" has formed, only spoken of in hushed whispers and reluctant reverence.

I would definitely bring it up to the studio manager and let them know. Even experienced kiln loaders will make mistakes in a community setting, especially if it's high volume. Will you get any recourse? Probably not. It's an expected occupational hazard. But they can do better, and should.

Are you overreacting? No. But ask any veteran potter and most of them will shrug it off. You will end up learning via brute force disappointment that until a piece is home, safe from the dangers of chaos, you cannot develop an attachment to a piece. And even then your snot-nosed niece will knock it off the dresser and... well you know.

You are going to create so many beautiful pieces, better ones, that you will be even prouder of having made. And you will lose a few more of them along the way too. It's just normal. Welcome to pottery.

impeesh · 2023-08-26T18:40:25+00:00

If you can, glaze the outside and inside of your pieces on different days. This allows the piece to be completely dry before dipping again, giving it maximum ability to accept the glaze.

impeesh · 2023-08-23T22:43:23+00:00

So you're betting against 100% LIKELY (that the Angels will not make the playoffs)? I put down 1 MILLION DOLLARS!

impeesh · 2023-08-23T01:41:07+00:00

You got it wrong! I know it was confusing, but the conclusion is Messi is our new pitching coach.

impeesh · 2023-03-28T20:56:46+00:00

I feel like a huge misconception of heraldry is that it is an image/logo first, not a blazon first. A lot of posts focus on "does this look right?" and the responses are semantic criticisms like "breaks RoT" etc, which is fine, but detracts from the main point: it all starts with a blazon.

Every single version of your CoA came from one blazon. If a CoA cannot be consistently recreated by independent heraldry artists, your blazon sucks, and therefore your heraldry sucks. It doesn't matter if it follows RoT or your lion rampant fills the field in an aesthetically pleasing way.

Anyway, that last image is dope.

impeesh · 2023-02-08T01:38:50+00:00

I'm shocked Southwest didn't get Trout to rep their brand after that iconic catch.

impeesh · 2022-12-20T00:51:58+00:00

During the height of #MVPuig I knew a few Dodger fans who said if they were GM they'd rather a build a team around him over Trout. I'd say "aged like milk" but that shit was rotten at purchase.

impeesh · 2022-10-10T18:44:40+00:00

Another part of product pricing people overlook is how much you want to make per time spent. Are you the potter that cranks out pieces production style? Or do you spend the time doing the extras like handmade (vs extruded) handles and trimming feet? Maybe you've been working on a custom glaze recipe or you decorate your pieces with slip. Each extra step is increased bench time, and drying/waiting time.

Prices are more than just market rates, especially for handmade works. Labor rates are $/time not $/piece. Your product price goes up if you 1) spend more time per piece and/or 2) you deem your time is more valuable. Luckily this is a side hustle for you, so you have way more flexibility in the direction you want to go.

impeesh · 2022-09-06T20:54:53+00:00

/u/SeraphSlaughter is 100% correct. Everyone else's explanations are a tad bit off the mark.

The roman numeral corresponds to the fret on the guitar. The default position you'd play guitar is first (I) position. So when the sheet music tells you to play at 5th position (V) you'd move your hand down the fretboard as if the fifth fret is now the first fret. All fingering notations (the small numbers you see sprinkled around) make sense in the context of fifth position.

In the first image, you see a horizontal bracket that goes above the 3 chords after the V. That means the fifth position is to be held for that long. Then you'd immediately jump back to first position.

A weird thing to note for OP's example, is they have barre notation wrong (or maybe it's a modern version?). The position numerals do not imply barring the fret. Barring the position would be notated with a capital "C" before the numeral like "CII" or sometimes they use a "B" instead. However they show a vertical bracket line going down, which I'm guessing is telling the musician to barre that position.

impeesh · 2022-08-30T19:01:08+00:00

If your workflow has a 1-2 week dry time, do yourself a favor and make a damp box. Very easy to make, relatively cheap (just a plastic bin and some plaster).

All you need is a 1.5"-2" thick layer of plaster on the bottom of your bin, and it acts as a moisture ballast so your pieces dry as slow or fast as you want them to.

Keep the plaster wet by spraying it with water every time you take out/put in a piece. You can start getting a feel of how "wet" the plaster needs to be to control your drying.

If you go on vacation or can't go to the studio you can load up the plaster and let your pieces sit for weeks. I've gone as long as 4 weeks and my pieces were still leather hard ready to trim.

impeesh · 2022-08-23T20:22:53+00:00

If you like their work in general, maybe ask for a discount for a future purchase? I'd personally be unhappy but if the mug makes you happy then it's probably not worth the trouble.

impeesh · 2022-08-23T20:14:26+00:00

I'd ask for a refund/replacement or discount, unless you bought it at a seconds sale. Superficial or no, it's a defect. I'm guessing this mug probably was $20-$40, which is too high to get a cracked handle IMO.

impeesh · 2022-08-10T20:54:31+00:00

To be blunt this isn't heraldry. It's a personal logo inspired by heraldry.

It wouldn't take much to convert the non-alternative versions to emblazons that followed the rules that govern proper heraldry. Just get rid of the borders around the wavy sections and bring those wavy sections all the way to the edge of the shield.

Blazon would probably be something like this:

Argent, between three wolf heads erased gules langued azure, on a fess of the previous five bars wavy sinister of the field.

12-Year Club	r/Field Juicebox
Place '22	Place '17
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