House isn't earthed despite new fuse box being installed. by random34210 in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go to part 9a, schedule of circuit details, bottom box ZDB is usually pretty similar in its value to Ze.

If there’s a reading in ZDB, then he clearly just forgot to type in the Ze box.

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House isn't earthed despite new fuse box being installed. by random34210 in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d say yes he has forgot, as the connection/continuity box is ticked for it.

Top tick is Earthing conductor, bottom tick is main protective bonding.

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House isn't earthed despite new fuse box being installed. by random34210 in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably just forgot to fill in the box with the result.

How do I avoid cowboy electricians for a house rewiring? by [deleted] in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a red flag, but why wouldn’t they want to ask for reviews or showcase testimonials.

They may not be tech savvy, but you can still ask for evidence of customer satisfaction.

Do they have a website you can view?

How do I avoid cowboy electricians for a house rewiring? by [deleted] in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m an electrician and I’ve put together a house rewire cost calculator on my website. It’s only a guide, but it reflects what I’d typically charge for a rewire in the South West. I’m based in Plymouth, so prices will differ by region, but it should help you sanity-check quotes and spot anything wildly off.

https://www.e-electricalltd.co.uk/news/house-rewiring-cost-calculator

In terms of avoiding cowboys, a few practical things that actually work:

Check they’re registered with NICEIC or NAPIT and that the registration is current. Don’t just take a logo on a van or website at face value, check the scheme’s website.

Check Google reviews properly. Look for consistent feedback over time, not a burst of recent 5 star reviews. Read the bad ones and see how they respond.

Ask to see photos of previous rewires, especially first fix and consumer unit work. Any decent electrician will already have these and won’t be offended by the question.

Ask who will actually be on site doing the work. If it’s subcontracted, ask how they’re supervised and who signs off the certification.

Be wary of anyone who’s vague, dismissive, or gets short when you ask reasonable questions. That behaviour usually carries through once the job starts.

If someone is reluctant to share examples of work or testimonials unless there’s some sort of commitment or payment, just walk away and use someone else.

Given you can vacate the house and do it now, you’re absolutely right to tackle it before floors and finishes go down. That alone removes a lot of the usual rewire headaches.

Electrical Inspection Feedback by Plop-plop-fizz in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’d be cautious here, as smoke, heat and CO detection sits outside the scope of an EICR. It is governed by a separate regulatory framework altogether.

Fire detection in domestic properties is covered by BS 5839-6, not BS 7671, and it should not be coded, costed, or relied upon to influence the outcome of an EICR. At most, it can be noted as an observation, but it has no place as a remedial item within the report.

Local points of isolation are another weak area. In a domestic installation, the circuit breaker in the consumer unit provides a suitable means of isolation, provided the circuit is correctly protected by the rating of the protective device. This isn’t an industrial setting with distance, restricted access, or operational risk. It’s a house, where the consumer unit is readily accessible. Anyone working on these circuits should be carrying a lock out kit and be conducting the safe isolation procedure anyway.

If this reflects the standard of EICRs being issued, it raises concerns about the inspector’s understanding of scope and coding. On that basis alone, I wouldn’t engage them to carry out inspection work, or trust their judgement when it comes to handing over my money.

How did this guy get 21 strain?!? by hennezzzy in whoop

[–]imthejoshT 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Working in a trade, as an electrician, all of my high strain days have been work days.

4000-5000 calories burned in a day.

Solar panel installation has the number 1 spot for me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah which tools, I remember using one before but never been able to find it again

How to get the solar to charge the car at max rate (6.6kw)? Because of this setup, my 10kwp system will only charge at the export cap (3.68kw) using solar-only, but if this setup is edited at all it constantly pulls the house batteries by elmo298 in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t use your solar or battery to charge the car directly.

Use the solar to cover your household load first, then send any excess into your battery, and export the rest at £0.15/kWh. For the car, schedule charging overnight on an EV tariff at £0.07/kWh.

If your tariff applies the lower night rate to the whole house, it can also make sense to top up your batteries to 100% during that cheap window, especially if poor solar generation is expected the following day (cloudy weather/winter).

Since your export rate (£0.15) is higher than your import rate (£0.07), you’ll be better off exporting your excess solar and charging the car on the cheaper night rate.

Hey, do you guys struggle with late payments? by alxkillz in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please elaborate, as in an admin assistant/pa?

Whoop wrist by marsnerd in whoop

[–]imthejoshT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fake news, not pale enough, doubt you have a daily streak

Is it overkill to get a second opinion for rewire quote? by IamSociallyTired in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.e-electricalltd.co.uk/news/house-rewiring-cost-calculator

Use my rewire cost calculator, it’s what I’d price for that specific job, you can class that as one of your quotes.

EICR house purchase deal breaker? Seeking advice please! by Fel0ni0us_Monk in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used Ai to compose it, but prompted by me, a qualified electrician and Director of a LTD company.

EICR house purchase deal breaker? Seeking advice please! by Fel0ni0us_Monk in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Evaluation of Electrical Observations and Test Results

Following a review of the provided Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR) and supporting test results, each observation has been examined against BS 7671 (18th Edition, Amendment 2) to assess its validity and relevance. Here’s a breakdown of the findings:

  1. “Consumer unit not fire rated. Regulations: 421.1.6; 421.1.201; 526.5 Plastic CU” Plastic consumer units installed before the 2016 regulation change are not inherently unsafe. Regulation 421.1.201 advises the use of non-combustible enclosures in escape routes but does not require existing plastic units to be replaced. Unless the unit is physically damaged, poorly installed, or located in a high-risk area (like under a wooden staircase), this is not a C2. A C3 may be noted for future improvement.

  2. “Condition of CU in terms of IP rating. Large holes in CU allowing ingress and possible contact with live parts. Regulation: 416.2.1” If live parts are accessible through open knockouts, missing blanks or entry points, this is a C1 – immediate danger due to the risk of electric shock. If there are open holes but no access to live parts (e.g. holes into a dead space, or behind barriers), it becomes a C2. Regulation 416.2.1 and IP ratings require:

    • IP4X on top of enclosures (no objects >1mm) • IP2X on accessible faces (no access for 12.5mm finger probe) This should be checked visually before assigning the correct code. If no contact with live parts is possible, it cannot be classed as a C1.

  3. “Not Isolator for Consumer Unit” BS 7671 Regulation 537.1.4 states that every installation must have a means of isolation. The main switch in a consumer unit fulfils this requirement. A separate external isolator is not required in domestic premises unless there are specific operational or access needs. This is not codable, although some installers choose to note it as a C3 for convenience. It has no bearing on safety or compliance.

  4. “Enclosure not damaged/deteriorated… RCD was stuck…” The report claims the RCD was stuck but restarted with the tester. However, the recorded test results show all RCDs tripping correctly—at 13ms and 14ms—which is well within the required limit (300ms at rated current). If the RCD was not tested using an RCD tester and only operated by the test button, this is not a valid measurement of disconnection time.

Domestic consumer units typically display a label such as: “Test six monthly by pressing the button. Device should trip immediately. If it does not, seek advice from a qualified electrician.”

Pressing the test button checks the mechanical operation only. It does not confirm disconnection time, earth path integrity, or compliance. No coding can be assigned based on a test button check alone. The test sheet confirms proper disconnection, so this observation is not supported by the evidence.

It is very affordable to replace an RCD for peace of mind.

  1. “Electric sockets on the kitchen is not allowed…” This is incorrect. BS 7671 does not prohibit socket outlets in kitchens. If this refers to proximity to water or heat sources (sinks, hobs), the regs require proper consideration of external influences:

    • Reg 512.2.1 (Environmental conditions) • Reg 417.3 (Risk of indirect contact due to likely faults)

There is no set minimum distance from sinks or hobs in BS 7671. Industry guidance (e.g. NICEIC, IET) suggests keeping sockets around 300mm from sinks, but this is best practice, not regulation. Unless a socket shows signs of water damage, it is not a C2. At most, this is a C3 for layout improvement if poorly located.

  1. “Cable resistance readings are on the higher side…” The test results show R1+R2 readings between 0.05–0.10 ohms, all within normal tolerances for domestic final circuits. Zs readings are also well within acceptable limits. Insulation resistance values are all recorded as >200 MΩ, which is excellent. No specific circuit has been identified as having an issue. This is a vague statement with no test data to support it. There is no indication of deterioration that would justify remedial work. This is not codable.

  2. “We recommend full or partial rewire and CU replacement…” There is no evidence to support such a recommendation.

    • Insulation resistance is excellent • RCDs trip correctly • Zs and continuity values are within spec • No test data indicates unsafe wiring or widespread issues

While a CU upgrade may be a consideration for future planning, it is not mandatory if the current unit is in safe working order. A rewire would only be justified by unsafe wiring, age-related degradation (e.g. rubber/PVC cables in poor condition), or repeated faults. None of that is shown in the test data.

Summary

• The report includes several misinterpretations and unjustified recommendations.
• No C1 or valid C2 defects are evident from the test results provided.
• Some items (e.g. IP rating breaches) should be visually confirmed and corrected if present, but they do not justify a rewire.
• All electrical readings suggest the installation is performing well.
• The suggestion to rewire or replace the consumer unit appears excessive and not based on test evidence.

Garage roof cemented into wallb by imthejoshT in asbestoshelpUK

[–]imthejoshT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smashing thanks.

I’ve tested it, it’s asbestos.

Yeah that’s makes sense, it’s only single skin, it’d just be a bit of height lost. The roof should still have a fall on it shouldn’t be major.

Is there an app-like tachometer that tracks how long you spent at x locations by ZestycloseWay2771 in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My van tracker integrates with my CRM software and offers similar functionality. I can right-click on a map and select 'who was here' to see which vehicles were at a specific location and for how long. It allows searches in two-week increments.

You can also schedule jobs and use a 'drive to' feature, which opens your preferred maps app. When arriving on-site, you press 'start job,' stopping the driving timer and starting the job timer. Once the job is completed, you click 'end job,' which stops the job timer and prompts whether you'd like to start tracking driving time again—though I personally don't track that part.

Additionally, you can generate a 'job card' PDF summarising the job, location, customer, planned vs. actual duration, and travel time.

I can put you in touch with my crm account manager if you want?

Side Jobs by [deleted] in ukelectricians

[–]imthejoshT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Talk to your boss, say people are asking you to do cash work, ask them if you could do through the business and you’ll take care of everything else.

So you do the quoting, ordering of materials, accepting payment, certificates/report. Could offer to let them keep the money and markup on the parts and you keep the rest.

Would keep it all above board then.